IHI Turbo Rebuild

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yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
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Louisburg, KS for now
Bear9350 said:
Finished rebuilding the rest of the turbo tonight. The longer bolts worked with no problem for me. Everything tightened up with no issue.

Not sure if I did something wrong or if I just picked up a bad spare turbo to rebuild. I have everything together but it seems really loose. Anybody else experience this? I can wiggle the end of the turbo shaft and the new Batmo Wheel I installed can make contact with the housing.

I guess I will be pulling this all apart again and double checking it. I don't think I could have done anything wrong but it is worth a look. Might have to try swapping a few parts back and forth with the current turbo on my truck to see if something is bad I guess.
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Is the turbo having play axially, in and out or up and down?

If its making contact with the intake wheel pushed out, towards the compressor cover make sure the nut holding the batmowheel is tight.

Do what Scott said in putting oil in the oil intake and spins the shaft, then see what it does.

Yellowchevy
 
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Bear9350

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May 23, 2013
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It is up and down. No in and out play. I tried the oil thing tonight and it didn't seem to help. The plan was to replace injectors, do a turbo swap and new down pipe tomorrow. Hopefully the injectors swap goes smoothly and I have some time to play with the turbo. I have a second housing perplexing that I can swap the rebuild bearings and parts into.
 
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yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,926
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Louisburg, KS for now
Bear9350 said:
It is up and down. No in and out play. I tried the oil thing tonight and it didn't seem to help. The plan was to replace injectors, do a turbo swap and new down pipe tomorrow. Hopefully the injectors swap goes smoothly and I have some time to play with the turbo. I have a second housing perplexing that I can swap the rebuild bearings and parts into.
Click to expand...

The batmowheel is contacting the housing when you push it up and down even after you put the bearings in?
Go through my rebuild thread to make sure you assembled it with everything orientated correctly and with all the seal just as a sanity check.

If its still not cooperating send me a pm.

Yellowchevy
 
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Bear9350

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May 23, 2013
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yellowchevy said:
The batmowheel is contacting the housing when you push it up and down even after you put the bearings in?
Go through my rebuild thread to make sure you assembled it with everything orientated correctly and with all the seal just as a sanity check.

If its still not cooperating send me a pm.

Yellowchevy
Click to expand...

Yeah, everything installed and the nut tightened. I took it apart last night and it looks like everything was installed correctly. The slop appears to be between the bushings and the housing, not the nudging and shaft. I have a second center section housing cleaned up that I am going to try swapping everything into tonight. Hopefully that one works.

When installing the shaft, did you notice if the shoulder of the shaft between the large OD and small OD bottomed out on the spacer? The thrust washer has a large OD "the same size as the bearings, and the spacer has a smaller OD, same size as the batmo wheel. Should the shoulder of the shaft be hitting the spacer or should it more or less be floating in there.
 
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Bear9350

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May 23, 2013
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Put everything back together tonight in the new center. Seems to have tightened up but it is still rubbing on one side. It seems as if the turbine shaft I have is bent or something. It is closer to the bottom of the turbo and it only rubs on that side.
 
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yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,926
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Louisburg, KS for now
Bear9350 said:
Yeah, everything installed and the nut tightened. I took it apart last night and it looks like everything was installed correctly. The slop appears to be between the bushings and the housing, not the nudging and shaft. I have a second center section housing cleaned up that I am going to try swapping everything into tonight. Hopefully that one works.

When installing the shaft, did you notice if the shoulder of the shaft between the large OD and small OD bottomed out on the spacer? The thrust washer has a large OD "the same size as the bearings, and the spacer has a smaller OD, same size as the batmo wheel. Should the shoulder of the shaft be hitting the spacer or should it more or less be floating in there.
Click to expand...

If I remember right that step down diameter in the shaft should be firmly against that spacer and steel seal that the back of the compressor cover pushes against.
When you install the intake wheel and tighten it up that should pull the whole assembly together to stop the shaft from moving axially back and forth.
At that point with the intake wheel tightened it shouldn't move up or down very much so the wheel shouldn't contact the housing. It will move some b/c there's not oil in the system and its got journal bearings but not enough where it will contact the housing.

This is what I noticed when I rebuilt the first one and get on all the other ones I've rebuilt.

How hard are you pushing on the intake wheel to get it to contact the housing?

Yellowchevy
 
TwinStick

TwinStick

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Dec 10, 2013
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Vancouver, WA
Do the major rebuild kits come with the copper shim that goes between the center section and the exhaust housing? Mine's kind of fouled up.
 
TwinStick

TwinStick

New member
Dec 10, 2013
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Vancouver, WA
Just FYI for everyone. The 4 compressor housing back plate bolts that came with my Midwest Turbo rebuild kit that YellowChevy mentioned were also too long in my new kit. I reused the old ones with no problem.
 
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wolf23093

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Dec 6, 2015
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Hey yellow chevy where can I find all the torque spec's for the IHI turbo nets and bolts thanks
 
motoking_1990

motoking_1990

Active member
May 9, 2011
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Terre Haute, IN
wolf23093 said:
That would be nuts and bolts and compressor wheel on LB7 Thanks again
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When turbo & diesel injection in Indianapolis did my rotating assembly balance. They had a mark on the head of the shaft and the flat part of the inducer of the compressor wheel where the nut butts up against, and you had to line them up with it torqued to spec. (Which was a pain in the ass but that's a whole different story lol) The marks were for the balance but they did tell me the torque but for the life of me I cannot remember. You could give them a call for the spec they are a ihi dealer if Russ doesn't chime in. Also the housing and back plate, me and Russ couldn't find a torque spec anywhere for them so I just tightened them up pretty snug. Remember it is only aluminum. Hope this helps.
Greg

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