If you were to build an LML....
- Thread starter Dm23
- Start date
Lml crank, head studs, twins 364/480 comparable size, 60 over injectors,
Maybe 40s and crank rail pressure up to increase volume via pressure which would increase atomization..
valve spring upgrades, with single CP3 IDK if a 10mm will but 12mm should, dual stock definitely will.
Billet rods
Cam isn't needed but would help, definitely a case for a alternate fire camshaft. Though I'm not personally sold on it
Keyed crank/cam minimum
Main studs, billet caps aren't needed but definitely money well spent.
Mahle performance pistons, ovals or de-lipped, diamond pistons is another option.
OEM Head work would definitely help.
I'd run 18:1 CR for daily use, easier starting and crisper throttle response. Definitely thought about building a 19:1 engine.
At minimum exhaust up pipes, manifolds would be a good addition though smaller versions vs larger pipes as you'll spend more time at part throttle than WOT
Pending RPM you plan on spinning aftermarket harmonic dampener.
Drill out fuel rail ports/fittings for increase volume.
Most likely will need billet hard parts in the transmission at that level.
Just a rough non polished thought process from me..
Maybe 40s and crank rail pressure up to increase volume via pressure which would increase atomization..
valve spring upgrades, with single CP3 IDK if a 10mm will but 12mm should, dual stock definitely will.
Billet rods
Cam isn't needed but would help, definitely a case for a alternate fire camshaft. Though I'm not personally sold on it
Keyed crank/cam minimum
Main studs, billet caps aren't needed but definitely money well spent.
Mahle performance pistons, ovals or de-lipped, diamond pistons is another option.
OEM Head work would definitely help.
I'd run 18:1 CR for daily use, easier starting and crisper throttle response. Definitely thought about building a 19:1 engine.
At minimum exhaust up pipes, manifolds would be a good addition though smaller versions vs larger pipes as you'll spend more time at part throttle than WOT
Pending RPM you plan on spinning aftermarket harmonic dampener.
Drill out fuel rail ports/fittings for increase volume.
Most likely will need billet hard parts in the transmission at that level.
Just a rough non polished thought process from me..
Last edited:
Thanks for the feed back. I haven’t seen or heard of many people on this site going into detail in regards to this platform. I’m thinking long term for a really fun DD. I really want to keep and add to what I have already got. With the 65mm/cp3 etc. looking at 100% SS overs currently.
If I wanted a 750-800whp LML to do everything it would be as follows:
****Engine****
1) SoCal rods
2) Callies compstar crank
3) Any cam that doesn't require reliefs
4) Mahle Motorsport or Fingers Ovals (cast) (16.8:1 area)
5) ARP everywhere (625 head studs)
6) BD/Goerend/DHD style flexplate
7) 2020+ oil cooler
8) DHD pinned/shimmed oil pump
9) Mahle performance main/rod bearings (H or HX depending on clearance), Mahle standard cam/thrust bearings
10) Fluidampr
11) Good conical valve springs (Manton/XDP, SoCal, Comp, Fleece etc. Skip dual springs)
12) Good pushrods (Manton/XDP, SoCal, Fleece, II, Merchant, Trend etc)
****Fuel****
1) Dynomite or Exergy 100% injectors
2) 12mm CP3 of your choice
3) AirDog II-5G 220gph
****Air****
1) 63.5 vgt/480 or 65 vgt/480
2) Intercooler of your choice
****Built Trans****
1) Billet input
2) Billet C2 hub
3) Goerend R converter
4) Mishimoto cooler
****Engine****
1) SoCal rods
2) Callies compstar crank
3) Any cam that doesn't require reliefs
4) Mahle Motorsport or Fingers Ovals (cast) (16.8:1 area)
5) ARP everywhere (625 head studs)
6) BD/Goerend/DHD style flexplate
7) 2020+ oil cooler
8) DHD pinned/shimmed oil pump
9) Mahle performance main/rod bearings (H or HX depending on clearance), Mahle standard cam/thrust bearings
10) Fluidampr
11) Good conical valve springs (Manton/XDP, SoCal, Comp, Fleece etc. Skip dual springs)
12) Good pushrods (Manton/XDP, SoCal, Fleece, II, Merchant, Trend etc)
****Fuel****
1) Dynomite or Exergy 100% injectors
2) 12mm CP3 of your choice
3) AirDog II-5G 220gph
****Air****
1) 63.5 vgt/480 or 65 vgt/480
2) Intercooler of your choice
****Built Trans****
1) Billet input
2) Billet C2 hub
3) Goerend R converter
4) Mishimoto cooler
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I’d run a stock engine there with 60% injectors, compounds (stock/480 kit) and 10mm cp3.
If the motor is hurt I’d do the build I listed earlier. They run AWESOME.
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What rear seal installer do you use? If you use one that does not have a relief in it for the dowel, you can run into problems like you mentioned
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What I use.
Merchant Automotive Engine Seal Driver Kit and Front, Rear Main Seals | 2001 - 2016
Looking for Merchant Auto Engine Seal Driver Kit w/Front /Rear Main Seals, 2001-2016 #10810?
www.merchant-automotive.com
And driver handle
Merchant Automotive Seal Driver Handle, Steel
Looking for Merchant Auto Seal Driver Handle, Steel #10352?
www.merchant-automotive.com
That's what I was getting at, this style has no rear dowel relief, so depending on the length the dowel was cut to(callies do not come with dowels) it can cause rear mains to be installed crooked.What I use.
Merchant Automotive Engine Seal Driver Kit and Front, Rear Main Seals | 2001 - 2016
Looking for Merchant Auto Engine Seal Driver Kit w/Front /Rear Main Seals, 2001-2016 #10810?
And driver handle
Merchant Automotive Seal Driver Handle, Steel
Looking for Merchant Auto Seal Driver Handle, Steel #10352?
Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk
I use the correct one. Has the dowel hole to help line the tool up as well
It's from freedom racing
It's from freedom racing
Nope, it's deep enough to not hit the dowel. Eric was smarter then that when building them.
I have seen ones that are too shallow and do exactly what you say