LB7: I need help I turn the key and I get nothing no cranking of the engine

[MACKIN]

I put a remote start and it cranked freely. I turned on the Initiation then manually cranked and it just turns.

Subject title says no crank?

Nonetheless hope you get it fixed

 

[chevyburnout1]

MACKIN I believe he was talking about a remote push button starter straight to the starter solenoid. However it will not crank with just the key input.

 

[MACKIN]

MACKIN I believe he was talking about a remote push button starter straight to the starter solenoid. However it will not crank with just the key input.

Oh ok so its basically what iim saying , see if starter functions,this has happened to a few guys here. I don't recall what the fix was tho

 

[lobocharlie]

Correct a button switch to the positive on battery. Ill check the voltages

 

[lobocharlie]

Ok I checked all voltage that had Ignition on them here is what I found

Fuses in the engine under the hood:
With key off // with key on
#8 ING A - 12.38 volt // 11.92 volt
#9 ING B - 12.38 volt // 11.92 volt
#23 not used
#24 not used
#25 ECMPRCV - 0 volt // 11.91 volt
#27 ING E - 0 volt // 3.99 volt is this to be 11.92 like the rest?
#30 PCM B - 12.38 volt // 11.92 volt
#45 CIG DLC - 12.38 volt // 11.92 volt

The fuses in the cab are all the same
With key off // with key on
#1 0 volt // 11.91
#5 0 volt // 11.91
#8 0 volt // 11.91

Also I don't hear the relays clicking when the key is turned on.
I ALSO CHECKED THE GROUND OF THE ACTUAL CASES OF THE ECM AND TMC AND THE CASES SEEM GOOD.

 

[chevyburnout1]

I assume you ment 'IGN', not 'ING'? If so I think were' getting somewhere! You are correct, they all should be reading battery voltage with the key in the run position. The 'IGN E' supplies battery voltage to the neutral/start switch on the transmission. If the 'IGN E' fuse is reading 3.99volts check the 'FUELHT', 'B/U LP', and 'SIR' fuse in the underhood fuse block. If they all are reading the same 3.99 volts I would go with an ignition switch.

 

[lobocharlie]

OK
#31 4.0 volt
#32 4.0 volt
#35 4.0 volt

I will replace the switch and see what happens

I also checked #54 Crank ECM 0 volts switch off // 12.38 volts switch to start position.

 

[chevyburnout1]

Sounds good let us know :thumb:

 

[lobocharlie]

The problem is fixed in the 505 thanks to you all

BINGO:thumb::thumb::thumb:


I took off the shroud on the column (I got the instructions off this site also) wiggled the connectors at the switch and I got a click. so I took the switch off and manually pushed the wheel and there was no resistance. When I got to the start position I wiggled it and it started..
I replaced the switch about 1 year ago got it from Autozone so I removed it took it back to them and they gave me a new one (Lifetime guaranteed).

Installed and bam

:angel:Thanks everyone :angel:for their advise and inputs you all made my Christmas good.

I would of spent a lot of money before I figured it out and it probably would of landed up at the dealer.

PS It also fixed some other issues that I had like the when I selected the heater fan to 1,2,3,4 it would alarm me with a ding, ding, ding and read out would say Service Brakes Soon. It also seemed to correct the recirculate air button when i would press this it would turn the A/C on. (I will monitor this to make sure though but it is not doing it now)

 

[McRat]

PSS - Just to note (no biggie) 'The Pharmacy' is devoted to chemical warfare for Duramaxes: Nitrous, Water/Meth, Propane, etc.

 

[chevyburnout1]

Glad to hear man! :thumb:

 

[lobocharlie]

So McRat where should I have posted this topic?

 

[McRat]

That is a good question. Probably Hard Parts or Tuning. Maybe we need 911 forum?

 

[MACKIN]

I bet that if you would have said you replaced the ignition switch recently with a Autozone POS part your problem would have been solved days ago, just a FYI!