i need asimple answer on how to disable auto headlights

[TeaBagger2006]

I MUST HAVE READ A BILLION THREADS OF GARBAGE OVER AT THE DP ABOUT THIS ...... most of the treads were derailed an inconclusive .....all i want to know is what wires (COLORS AND LOCATION) i have to bridge to disable that sensor on the dash...i fuigred out that i have to remove the top part of the dash to get to the wiring for that sensor. also read sothing about a pink wire at the body computer...... i guess my sensor dont work nomore since my headlights are on all the time now. ican deal with having to turn them on manually .....i had to disable my all on mod so icould do the high beam trick to keep my HID from always cycling .......HELP!!! I need the easiest solution......no integrating timers and microwave ovens and what nots... im no good with schematics either........ I FEEL LIKE IM VENTING

 

[Mike]

I hope this helps you. Sorry I can't help anymore at the moment. This is for your 06. Try the first diagram, middle and far right.

 

[Mike]

I just caught the no good at schematics thing. Sorry.

My guess would be to jump the white wire at the light sensor/switch and the black wire at the light sensor/switch.

First, measure to see if you get a voltage between the white wire and chassis ground. If you don't, try to disconnect the white wire see if the lights go out. If you do get a higher voltage or a stray voltage or one in the millivolt range try jumping the wires together bypassing the sensor/switch all together and see if the lights go out.

I'm thinking the sensor acts as a switch. When light hits the diode, that diode is reverse biased and acts as a current path allowing the white wire to go low and set the appropriate signal to the bcm.
If in fact your lights are on all the time due to this sensor being bad, jumping the two wires will turn the lights off but possibly turn your running lights on.

As far as the pink wire, I don't know. I see a pink/white wire in the schematic but cutting that would render no low beams.....

See what happens. Good luck.

 

[whitetrash21]

Did you try this one yet??? It was one of the FAQ's for shutting off the auto lights....

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4633&highlight=Canadian+Trucks

 

[Mike]

If you could, post the voltage across the two wire when you disconnect them if you don't mind. Thanks

 

[Mike]

Did you try this one yet??? It was one of the FAQ's for shutting off the auto lights....

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4633&highlight=Canadian+Trucks

I'm thinking that resistor specific number would relate to having a sun intensity/load sensor. If he has this option, I think cj2 ( option ), then this would hold true for sure.

 

[S Phinney]

Why not just turn them off? You can disable through the buttons.

 

[LBZ]

Why not just turn them off? You can disable through the buttons.

No you can't. Not on Canadian destined trucks. This DOES NOT WORK!! Nor does half the crap they talked about trying on DP.

On Canadian destined trucks things are wired different because federal law requires DRL's which means the headlights/DRL's cannot be turned off unless the parking brake is set before you start the truck!

 

[McRat]

Looks like what Mike said. Jumper White278 to Black279. It is showing a light switched diode. So when light hits it, it allows electricity to pass through the wire.

You don't have to remove the sensor to do it. Go to the BCM (Body Control Module) and jumper A4 and B7.

This is going by the wiring only. I've never disabled the auto feature on the headlights.

 

[LBZ]

I haven't had a chance to look at the schematics closely but can anyone look at it and explain to me why when you push the park brake and then key on, the DRL's auto lights stay off, but if you just push the brake with the key already on it does nothing till you cycle the key?

 

[Operator1]

You don't have to remove the sensor to do it. Go to the BCM (Body Control Module) and jumper A4 and B7.

Bingo!

Although, if you can't turn them off at all on Canadian trucks, they might be like the 99 Silverado 1500 and require a resistor between the terminals on the BCM to disable the autolamp feature. I might be able to find the instructions I used around here somewhere...

 

[Operator1]

Here they are

FOR '99-'02 TRUCKS ONLY w/o AUTO CLIMATE CONTROLS

Basically you will need a pair of wire cutters and a 1.5K ohm 1/2 watt resistor that you can get at Radio Shack. Electrical tape and possibly some wire nuts will work to wire in the resistor. You can solder the wires if you wish.

You may want to remove the neg. battery cable to assure you don't do any unwanted damage to the electrical system. This is not necessary, but a good precaution to take.

First locate the Body Control Module (BCM) which is under the dash, below the steering column. Laying on the floor, this should be visible without removing any dash panels. You should find a purple connector (C3). Unplug it.

Locate the white and gray wires (A4 and A6). I don't remember if white is A4 and gray is A6 or vice versa. It doesn't matter anyway.

Clip these two wires that are coming off this plug (C3). Leave a few inches to work with. Tape up or place wire nuts over the other end of these wires that go up under the dash(they go to the light sensor). You have now removed the light sensor from the electrical system and is now just a dash ornament.

Connect the gray wire from the plug (C3) to one end of the resistor and the white wire to the other end. Make sure you tape up all wires to prevent a short. You should now have a gray wire coming from C3, going to one lead of the resistor and the white wire from C3 to the other resistor lead. Plug in C3 to the BCM and replace the neg. battery cable if you removed it. Start the truck and make sure the lights are off. Throw a dark towel or something over the light sensor on the dash and verify the lights stay off. Try your light switch that has probably never been used and that's it!

 

[2500HeavyDuty]

I'm thinking that resistor specific number would relate to having a sun intensity/load sensor. If he has this option, I think cj2 ( option ), then this would hold true for sure.

its been a long time since i did mine but i used a 10.5k or 1.5k ohm resister iirc on the wire that gets signal from the ambient light sensor.

on the newer trucks i recal you just bridge the wire together and its done

 

[Mike]

Looks like what Mike said. Jumper White278 to Black279. It is showing a light switched diode. So when light hits it, it allows electricity to pass through the wire.

You don't have to remove the sensor to do it. Go to the BCM (Body Control Module) and jumper A4 and B7.

This is going by the wiring only. I've never disabled the auto feature on the headlights.

Sounds even better. I was just thinking, if a jumper didn't help, the sensor may be shorted and if it did require a resistor, the resistor would do no good because of the short.

The BCM may be harder to get to than taking out the sensor but I don't know, I've never removed one.

 

[LBZ]

On trucks that guys have done this on, when you turn the light switch all the way to off, does it stay there? On my truck it's spring loaded.

 

[McRat]

Yes, the switch is spring loaded. You rotate it CW, the lights go off and stay off until you restart the truck or turn them on with the switch.

It is probably safer to use a resistor instead of a straight jumper. You use a resistor when there can be enough current available to damage things. I don't believe that's the case, but it would suck to be wrong, it would fry the BCM.

 

[Brad92]

Isn't it an 8.8k ohm resistor on the newer trucks? I have read that some guys have used a 1.5k ohm resistor, like what is used for the 99-02, with good results.

 

[LBZ]

Yes, the switch is spring loaded. You rotate it CW, the lights go off and stay off until you restart the truck or turn them on with the switch.

It is probably safer to use a resistor instead of a straight jumper. You use a resistor when there can be enough current available to damage things. I don't believe that's the case, but it would suck to be wrong, it would fry the BCM.

You mean CCW don't you?

And this is how it should work if a guy throws a resistor across those wires correct?

 

[McRat]

You mean CCW don't you?

And this is how it should work if a guy throws a resistor across those wires correct?

Yup, I'ze backasswards.

The truth is the BCM is what turns on the lights, not the switches, so as long as nothing other than daylight sensor is turning them on, jumpering (or putting in a resistor) should do it.

But then you would try to reflash it with a Tech2 with an American VIN I suppose.

 

[Mike]

Yes, the switch is spring loaded. You rotate it CW, the lights go off and stay off until you restart the truck or turn them on with the switch.

It is probably safer to use a resistor instead of a straight jumper. You use a resistor when there can be enough current available to damage things. I don't believe that's the case, but it would suck to be wrong, it would fry the BCM.

Exactly, this is why I included the tell us what the voltage is. But, being a diode ( basically ), they drop .7 volts or so across depending on the type. They do not dissipate more than milliwatts themselves.

Again, unless it is a sun load sensor, it would not generate voltage.