Ok, this is my truck we are talking about here.
For starters I would like everyone to know that this thread should NOT be about weather or not it can be done, or why one would want to do it, but more "how it was done".
I’ll try to answer some of the simple question now but I don’t have time to go into details at the moment. I will look for the procedures that I wrote up (over a year ago) later this week. Along with posting a few pictures.
I have 35,000 miles currently on this dyno proven 600rwhp daily driver to back up all of my statements.
For those that WONDER WHY: My injectors failed at 160,000 miles and they replaced all of the fuel lines on top of the engine including the fuel rails due to corrosion. This time was under warrenty and it would have cost me over $3,800 if it hadn't been. So if I had put another 160,000 miles or so on the engine they would probably have failed again. But the engine didn’t make it that far, long story short it locked up 25,000 miles later. The block and pistons were scared really badly and I wanted to get the injectors out from under my valve covers for ease of access and safety. The LLY has dry injector cups witch means there is no coolant surrounding the injectors that can leak into the cylinders (this was the cause of my LB7s failure).
1. This LLY is setup like a LB7, NO EGR OR EGR COOLER!!! AND NO VVT
2. I’m using the stock LB7 ECM and FICM
3. The voltage and wire location between the two computers are identical from 2001 to at least 2005
4. The voltage to the Injectors may be different. This is why I’m using the FICM from a LLY (A Bosch engineer told me that all of the injectors that they supply to GM run off of a 12v supply line. He also told me that this engine would never run in my truck! 5 minutes after I got off of the phone with him the truck was running!!)
5. I spent more time studying the wire diagrams on the LB7 and LLY then the time it actually took me to install the engine.
Again I will post the detail later this week when I have time.
Ok, this is my truck we are talking about here.
For starters I would like everyone to know that this thread should NOT be about weather or not it can be done, or why one would want to do it, but more "how it was done".
I’ll try to answer some of the simple question now but I don’t have time to go into details at the moment. I will look for the procedures that I wrote up (over a year ago) later this week. Along with posting a few pictures.
I have 35,000 miles currently on this dyno proven 600rwhp daily driver to back up all of my statements.
For those that WONDER WHY: My injectors failed at 160,000 miles and they replaced all of the fuel lines on top of the engine including the fuel rails due to corrosion. This time was under warrenty and it would have cost me over $3,800 if it hadn't been. So if I had put another 160,000 miles or so on the engine they would probably have failed again. But the engine didn’t make it that far, long story short it locked up 25,000 miles later. The block and pistons were scared really badly and I wanted to get the injectors out from under my valve covers for ease of access and safety. The LLY has dry injector cups witch means there is no coolant surrounding the injectors that can leak into the cylinders (this was the cause of my LB7s failure).
1. This LLY is setup like a LB7, NO EGR OR EGR COOLER!!! AND NO VVT
2. I’m using the stock LB7 ECM and FICM
3. The voltage and wire location between the two computers are identical from 2001 to at least 2005
4. The voltage to the Injectors may be different. This is why I’m using the FICM from a LLY (A Bosch engineer told me that all of the injectors that they supply to GM run off of a 12v supply line. He also told me that this engine would never run in my truck! 5 minutes after I got off of the phone with him the truck was running!!)
5. I spent more time studying the wire diagrams on the LB7 and LLY then the time it actually took me to install the engine.
Again I will post the detail later this week when I have time.
I beleive his name was Daniel Jones. His truck is a Dark Blue GMC ECLB.
He works for Dominon Power downtown. He said he lives in Amelia.
proving to the community that it can be done.
what I said would not work (and wont work) is swapping to a complete LLY (ECM included) in an 01-02 LB7 truck...continuing to use the LB7 ECM but having it drive an LLY FICM obviously works fine...
ben
what I said would not work (and wont work) is swapping to a complete LLY (ECM included) in an 01-02 LB7 truck...continuing to use the LB7 ECM but having it drive an LLY FICM obviously works fine...
ben
Now heres a theoretical thought....
since most of us LB7 guys are coming up on the warranty, or past it, and injectors+labor would cost upwards of $3k+.....why not just swap out a set of LLY heads and FICM for about the same price, and not have to worry about injectors after that?
Juddski...."LBYZ" :rofl: dont we have enough letters?
Now heres a theoretical thought....
since most of us LB7 guys are coming up on the warranty, or past it, and injectors+labor would cost upwards of $3k+.....why not just swap out a set of LLY heads and FICM for about the same price, and not have to worry about injectors after that?
Juddski...."LBYZ" :rofl: dont we have enough letters?
Thats basically just what he did Tom. :
Now heres a theoretical thought....
since most of us LB7 guys are coming up on the warranty, or past it, and injectors+labor would cost upwards of $3k+.....why not just swap out a set of LLY heads and FICM for about the same price, and not have to worry about injectors after that?
Juddski...."LBYZ" :rofl: dont we have enough letters?