HP Altitude Weight??? Ran a 13.73 tonight

serpa4

serpa4

New member
Feb 5, 2007
402
0
0
I though I'd be a tad quicker:
R/T: .101
60' 2.003
330: 5.676
1/8: 8.768
MPH: 79.02
1000: 11.457
1/4: 13.73
MPH 98.69

Felt very strong, about 30-32 PSI boost, mostly 30ish.
No buck, no surge, perfect passes. Had a 13.78 to back it up.
Leaving about 1800-1900 RPM I guess (watching lights)
Removed two back wheels and spare.
Truck is about 7,500 lbs with me and no spare.
No engine fan/radiator fan.
Not lowered on the front end.
Very little wheel spin, but can be heard (factory tires with not much tread left)
I couldn't watch all the details like boost, tire spin, launch RPM, ect since I've only raced twice now and still concentrate on where I'm going and the lights.
EGT was about 1325 or so.

Is this about right for my altitude of 4,500 ft? Should I expect more?

I have snow stage three with 50% meth and one 625 nozzle and a 275 nozzle.
Full 4" exhaust with DP
Stock intake
Twin KD lift pumps
(Hell, everything listed in my sig)
MC tune 105 with about 10 deg timing removed. I think its about 25 deg at 3,000 rpm.
Stock shift points.
Factory tires at 60 psi.
No burnout box (not allowed with street tires)
Temp was about 72 deg/night. Some sideways wind.
 
Last edited:
Kat

Kat

Wicked Witch of the West
Aug 2, 2006
17,899
13
38
60
Norco, CA
Did you launch in 2wd or 4wd? Need to see if you can get your 60ft times down a little.
 
serpa4

serpa4

New member
Feb 5, 2007
402
0
0
It was done in 4x4. What should I expect for a 60 foot time considering stock tires and no spring clamps 1.8? Should I let more air out of the tires? Would leaf springs clamps make a difference? My overload springs touch empty in the rear and are about 1 inch from touching in the front (aftermarket 5 pack vs factory single/double). Should I put a spring clamp on that? How do you install said spring clamps i.e. where on the spring and front and rear etc. Anyone have a picture?
I guess that is about it for simple stuff. I really don't want to lower the front from its stock height.
Are those online HP calculators right for HP? Several have said about 570 Hp?
 
Last edited:
serpa4

serpa4

New member
Feb 5, 2007
402
0
0
I'm paranoid of how long I can hold 2000 RPM while the other guy stages. How long Can I hold it without cooking parts?
 
MMLMM

MMLMM

Tunergeek
Mar 2, 2008
4,086
2
38
43
Reno, NV
www.dyncal.com
serpa4 said:
I'm paranoid of how long I can hold 2000 RPM while the other guy stages. How long Can I hold it without cooking parts?
Click to expand...

First off, Dont start building boost till after your pre-stage light is on and his full stage is lit. or at least you both are pre staged. Build your boost around 1500-1800 rpms, once your boost is there, roll into the final stage light with the brake. Spring clamps will help. You should be working more tward a 1.8 60' time at least. Good luck, you will get more used to it....
 
L

LBZrcks

.........
Jun 2, 2007
5,297
12
38
38
SoCal
serpa4 said:
It was done in 4x4. What should I expect for a 60 foot time considering stock tires and no spring clamps 1.8? Should I let more air out of the tires? Would leaf springs clamps make a difference? My overload springs touch empty in the rear and are about 1 inch from touching in the front (aftermarket 5 pack vs factory single/double). Should I put a spring clamp on that? How do you install said spring clamps i.e. where on the spring and front and rear etc. Anyone have a picture?
I guess that is about it for simple stuff. I really don't want to lower the front from its stock height.
Are those online HP calculators right for HP? Several have said about 570 Hp?
Click to expand...

I usually run 1.8 60's but with the spring clamps I ran a 1.7 and my fastest e.t. the first time with them too. I think they do help and are worth it imo. To use spring clamps you just clamp the front side of the spring using something similar to a u bolt that holds yours springs to your axle and a plate to go on the other end with some nuts and washers, pretty simple. I also lower my t-bars while at the track a couple of turns, it launches way smoother and straighter.

serpa4 said:
I'm paranoid of how long I can hold 2000 RPM while the other guy stages. How long Can I hold it without cooking parts?
Click to expand...

I would let the other lane stage first then you, our trucks will stage pretty easy especially with a stock vvt imo. I can just stage then hold the brake and raise the rpms and easily build 15+psi. I would keep an eye on tranny temps too, but you should be fine
 
whitetrash21

whitetrash21

put on da damn helmet day
Apr 29, 2008
4,929
0
36
Vegas
runnin clamps on mine. i'm only a srw compared to your drw, but it makes a hell of a difference in how well the tires plant. no wheel hop whatsoever, even with lots of wheelspin. helps keep the abs off too, when braking hard with a big load.

this is how mine look.
 
Last edited:
IdahoRob

IdahoRob

New member
Jun 5, 2007
1,151
0
0
Good times for your weight and elevation. Get your 60' down, every .10 off there and it's at least .15 on the big end.

Use spring clamps, they help stop axle wrap and rear squat.

If racing another diesel truck, I stage first light and when the other racer has staged their first light, I build boost and bump into the second light.

If racing a race car, then I bump the first light and start building boost as the car gets close to the beams. Most times they bump both lights fast and you can get timed out if not on boost.

These converters can take a hit. I used to worry about that, now I just run without worrying about it. Only time you'll get burned down on the line is from a diesel truck racer that either can't spool, or is being a jerk.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom