How to release those damn GM push locks

Big Block 88

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Nov 3, 2008
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I am trying to replace my oil cooler lines and gasket on my 91 Z71. The oil lines have those damn push lock connections like the ones found in the fule systems on all GM trucks. There is just no roomm under there for the release tool like the ones I have for the fuel system, as the lines run right down the oil pan and above the tans bracket ( which I removed for more room).

Anyone have a good way of getting these things released??
 

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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so im assuming you are takijng about connectionms like the fuel lins going to the dmax. I hacve a set of cheapos, that have no handles or nothing, they fit anywhere, just use a prybar sensibly agsainst the,m
 

ChevyTruckGuy78

Twins done Now for trans
Feb 7, 2010
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do u have the metal ones like the ac ones or the indivuduals i have a set of plastic ones there all teh individual sizes withe a 1/4 inch lip around it to push in to relase em i either got em from zone or snap on i cant remember think there 10 of em
 

Chevy1925

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do u have the metal ones like the ac ones or the indivuduals i have a set of plastic ones there all teh individual sizes withe a 1/4 inch lip around it to push in to relase em i either got em from zone or snap on i cant remember think there 10 of em

Yup. They are ment for a/c lines but damn they work good on other push lock lines. Harbor freight has them too
 

68skylark455

Larry the "Stroker"
Aug 7, 2008
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They have the little round split plastic tools that work great "when" you can get to them. The ones at the trans is a pain, I use a pocket screwdriver and a small pick and just pull the clip around and out. Then put it back on before your lines and they just push right thru them and lock.:thumb:
 

Big Block 88

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Sweet thanks guys, I was using my metal release tool but it's just to big for the area I am working in, I will try the plastic ones tomorrow I think I can find them in the shop... I don't even know if I should be trying to fi the leaks in the oil cooler system, as all it is gonna do is just start leaking again. I may end up just deleteing the entire shebang
 

durallymax

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oooo So are these the jiffy tite or whatever they are called fittings? like on our transmissions? Just use a small flathead to pop the clips out, then reinstall them once you pull the line out. just like larry said.
 

Big Block 88

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oooo So are these the jiffy tite or whatever they are called fittings? like on our transmissions? Just use a small flathead to pop the clips out, then reinstall them once you pull the line out. just like larry said.

Yep just like our trans lines, but there is no room in there for a swrewdirver to get in there, it is very tight down there with the diff and driveshaft trans brace and frame all right there I will be rolling it back into the shop here in a couple hours to have another go at it.
 

RENODMAX

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Mar 4, 2008
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Take the driveshaft and other easily removed parts out of the way. I use a small pick with a slight curve.
 

durallymax

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Yep just like our trans lines, but there is no room in there for a swrewdirver to get in there, it is very tight down there with the diff and driveshaft trans brace and frame all right there I will be rolling it back into the shop here in a couple hours to have another go at it.

evidently you don thave enough tools or tool modifying experience, theres always a way to make it fit haha:thumb:
 

Vrabel

TOYAHOLIC
May 22, 2008
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wait, arent those like the coolant lines with the two ears you push in/ squeeze, then pull? like the coolant line at the back corner of the intake?
 

Big Block 88

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wait, arent those like the coolant lines with the two ears you push in/ squeeze, then pull? like the coolant line at the back corner of the intake?



:rofl::rofl: Yep they sure are no wonder they were so hard to get to release... The truck was just an absolute oil bath under there and you couldn't make anything out, I should have pressure washed it under there first. Jordan is absolutely correct removal of the drive shaft makes it ALOT easier I did not remove the shaft just the trans brace which helped alot. I took the easy way out and just took a 1" open end and put some shit to it and it just snapped the plastic locks which then let the fitting thread out of the oil filter housing.

So now i need to get 2 new clips as I just decided to destroy them and replace them anyway if this thing even leaks a drop I will delete the entire thing. There is no way a 1/2 ton needs that kind of HD cooling the project has cost me a whopping 5 bucks and I had the parts on the shelf for a long time now.

Thanks for all the help guys you guys are the best.
 

durallymax

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Oooo so they are like the fuel sending unit plugs like in the S10s and such where you have the two you squeeze then pull the line off. Gotcha gotcha. Well i think we have covered all kinds of fittings in this section.

Jiffy Tite (like the trans connections)
Plastic Squeezee dealios like the one that was to sole purpose of this thread.
AC/Fuel ones where you need the tool to depress the fingers to slide over the rib (ex.dmax fuel lines).

But I ran into a new one the other day. At first glance it looks like the ones big block was dealing with but theirs a split plastic ring around the fitting itself. And you actually rotate the two tabs and the collar spreads out and you can slide the fitting off. Had me confused for awhile. it was on the DEF sending unit on our AGCO
 

durallymax

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Why cant they just make one style of hose fitting like JIC 37* flare, as it works with AN fittings also and requires no orings or sealant?

Or at least make Eatons ends crimpable onto parkers hose, or shit make eatons ends crimpable onto eatons hoses, not just one style.

why cant all metric bolts have a standardized head size.

The things in life that piss us off.
 

Big Block 88

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Why cant they just make one style of hose fitting like JIC 37* flare, as it works with AN fittings also and requires no orings or sealant?

Or at least make Eatons ends crimpable onto parkers hose, or shit make eatons ends crimpable onto eatons hoses, not just one style.

why cant all metric bolts have a standardized head size.

The things in life that piss us off.

I have welded a wrench to a bolt head befor because the damn thing wasn't metric or sae. My big thing is why do they think every little line and connection needs to junction at the tightest point in the comartment or chassis??? I have large arm disorder and my arms don't fit to many places that an engineers arm will fit in. I think engineers say hay my wimpy arms fit in there thats good enough.
 

durallymax

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I have welded a wrench to a bolt head befor because the damn thing wasn't metric or sae. My big thing is why do they think every little line and connection needs to junction at the tightest point in the comartment or chassis??? I have large arm disorder and my arms don't fit to many places that an engineers arm will fit in. I think engineers say hay my wimpy arms fit in there thats good enough.

Was it a craftsman? Ive welded some to heads or bent them with a torch then taken them back to sears and gotten a shiny new one of the shelf. I think I screwed myself when i bought Snap-Ons because for some reason i dont see them buying my story of how a 1" wrench just bent when using it. Foprtuneatley the farm box still has crapsman for modifying.