How much power will it hold?
- Thread starter Tothemax
- Start date
Its all a gamble really, there are guys that make over 1000 with minimal mods and it all holds, then there are some with slightly built motors with carnage. My advice is to do the basics, rods, pistons, key the cam and crank, and an AF cam.
the rod will hold what you can throw at it
the pistons will hold what you can throw at it as there is no dated failure of the piston its self breaking, only other issues causing them
depends on the head studs you go with.
now as for the whole package as a motor holding, that cant be said as there is more info needed.
One skipped piece can ruin the whole thing. Don't key the crank or the cam and that can destroy it. lets say the Alt fire cam is the key to not breaking a crank. skip a 1500$ cam and ruin a 10K built short block. stock valves springs......drop a valve.....Don't key the oil pump well you get the point..
I wish I would have doweled my main caps. Skip something that simple and have to start over again.
Well as of now my motor is toast. I have another long block that should only need 1 piston and rod as I know of now. Thinking of possible putting good rods pistons and arp head studs in it if I can shake the money tree that's pretty bare. But as of now I have a Danville 4094stage2r that's on its way back to get refinished due to my failure, what's left of my 7k old 60% and twin pumps. Don't know if the half build would allow me to max all that out or if I should pull some tune hope the other injectors hold and put stock back in and pretend I'm happy
I did a "budget build": rods, mahle race pistons, valve springs, keyed, balanced, std fire cam, damper and studs. I havent really pushed it hard with fuel but its lived 3.5 years daily driven at ~700rwhp. I beat the snot out of it on a regular basis and made 30-40 passes. If you dont go big with fuel, your tuning is good and you try to avoid too much power down low it will last quite a while. I feel longevity is more important than how much power it can make. A motor build is a decent chunk of change you dont want to spend twice.
My biggest worry was a 500 dollar part taking out my 5000 dollar rods and Pistons. Not to mention a perfect Lmm block.
Carrillo.
I wouldve used an alt fire cam, but they were just getting on the market and were a bit out of my price range.
and you can even go more budget than that lol.
OP, it will come down to what you want to build the motor to hold. at or over 1000hp though, cranks breaking is more common than below that hp and there is no proven full fix for that yet though it seems the AF cam and new crank is doing good so far. i would search for a targeted HP you want to be at and see if you can afford to go there. the higher the HP though, the sooner the motor may come back out for fixing.
i personally have a very bare bones build that i built for 800ish hp. it consists of crower rods, stock delipped LB7 pistons, A1 head studs, ARP main studs, clevite H bearings, keyed crank and cam, stock cam, and stock from the heads up. this is very tried and trued setup that can live in the hp im talking IF your not pushing EGTs way high to kill the pistons. 35k at 600hp or more and no issues with the build since it first started (beside LB7 awesome injectors). it may not seem like much but hooking 12k to the back of the truck and 110*+temps while towing are not easy on a motor, specially when im not afraid to go WOT a few times to pass.
not necessarily, depending on his RPM range he wants and the amount of boost he wants to run can dictate that. mine are shimmed back to factory spec and sees 3600rpm at shift points, all with 200k on them and no issue.
Machine work and assembly plays a huge part in what lives and what's scrapped. I've had high dollar big name parts fail. Do a lot of research and plan on spending more then what's in the budget, all the little stuff at the end killed me at getting it on the road. And if it's a steet truck traction is my biggest problem. 4 wheel drive drifts at high speeds don't get you nowhere.