Ok and it has a upper valve cover oil leak do I have to worry about injector cups pulling out like on the lb7 motors when pulling injectors or no? I'm assuming I have to pull the 4 injectors to lift valve cover
How do I remove upper oil pan bolts?
- Thread starter Justin1022
- Start date
Ok and it has a upper valve cover oil leak do I have to worry about injector cups pulling out like on the lb7 motors when pulling injectors or no? I'm assuming I have to pull the 4 injectors to lift valve cover
Ok thanks a lot this place is awsome really got some good info here. When I bought the truck I fired it up and it idoled good but had a miss at around 1300-1500 rpm and wouldn't go over that. So do you think a broken return line could of introduced air into my fuel system and caused a miss? Also when takeing the truck apart I found the drivers side intercooler boot completely off the intercooler so it had a huge huge boost leak. I'm wondering on broken line to me it makes sense it would've sucking in air but I'm also not to sure how the fuel return system works
The miss could be a bad connection at an injector or a bad injector itself. But there are a few things that it can be
Ok guess I'll check all wires to injectors while engines out once I seen that broken return line figured I had it
Have you checked your balance rates? You should feel how smooth it is and right at 1000rpm or higher is when injector balancing stops. If it starts rumbling right after that mark it could be a bad injector. I realized you said 1300rpm but try and feel if there is a noticable change past the 1000rpm mark
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Ok will do I never checked balance rates the darn thing was leaking oil bad. Because that pan was cracked so I pretty much added oil made sure it didn't have a knock noticed it wouldn't rev over 1500 then pulled power train to fix oil leak im getting new frame today actually so hopefully in 2 days it will be back at the point were I can run it I did notice sliced wires going to one injector they arnt cut right through I was going to patch them maybe a combination of those 3 things were a cause of the problem I have a edge juice with attitude chip will that show balance rates?
oh ok ill show you witch one i have
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edge-Juice-...ash=item1c507c41d0:g:f0YAAOSw-7RVFbzq&vxp=mtr
That wiring grounding out at a run through in the harness will kill half a bank of injectors most likely. That's probably the problem. I just fixed an lly that had that problem
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That wiring grounding out at a run through in the harness will kill half a bank of injectors most likely. That's probably the problem. I just fixed an lly that had that problem
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hmm that wire runs to the drivers side front injector right? that was one of the ones i found sliced. maybe that is the culprit im pretty sure it sliced from the fan detonating thats what i figured broke that plastic return line. (good thing i have a buddy who parts these things out)
That wiring grounding out at a run through in the harness will kill half a bank of injectors most likely. That's probably the problem. I just fixed an lly that had that problem
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was your wire broken right through? ( it doesnt look like it) thats kind of how i found mine it wasn't a clean break you can see copper still attached
That one ran to the Ficm iirc like I said it's an lly. If that senses a short it cuts the whole bank and you'll have bad knock low power and maybe it would only run about 1500rpm. I pulled the pin out the connector and slide heat shrink on and filed that rough spot down and did a stand off.
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This truck had a squirrel eat a lot of wiring on that truck, there was shorts all over but this one wasn't all the cut in half. But just needs a break in the insolation to become a problem. Check this out lol
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i think what I'll do is put it all back together then run it again and see what's up the guy I get parts from swears it was probably my inter cooler boot being right off but everyone else seems to think it's electrical so what I'll do I think is re assemble then run and see what it does then check for codes to.