Hi i am trying to remove my upper oil pan without removing the fly wheel my pass side bolt is out but drivers side I can't figure out how to get I've read it's possibly to remove them without pulling fly wheel but no one explains how anyone have a method of doing so?
How do I remove upper oil pan bolts?
- Thread starter Justin1022
- Start date
i have the engine mounted on a stand that covers the fly wheel and didnt want to take it off the stand also those bolts are suppose to be tight i am not really set up right to remove it as you have to hold engine back from spinning id assume anyway i did manage to get them without pulling it pass side easy drivers side i just did some fine tuning to a 17mm socket and it slipped right in. one more question you no how you put gasket maker on the pan do you just put it in those little indents ? or do i put a bead all the way around?
Bead everywhere. Idk if there's been any fall, but I wouldn't hang the engine by the adapter plate like you are. They are just thread inserts into aluminum
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i have it bolted into were the tranny bolts to 4 bolts dont think thats ok? im just doing this pan then i guess ill set it down ive been watching with wrenching and banging doesnt seem to be pulling out been sitting on there since 8 am its 7pm now.
Just be careful with your face under it. I'm sure it will be fine, but i don't like the thought of it
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Ok I can actually rotate the engine around so for install I was going to spin it upside down make it easier
yup bassicly what i did i grinded one flat spot all the way down then measured were the fly wheel would be on the socket and how thick it was and kind of made a grove all the way around so i can spin the socket worked awesome
one last question should i lock tight the bolts for the upper pan and if so what kind green blue red?
No don't lock tite the bolts. High torque silicone will keep them tight.
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ok well i have the worst luck. my new pan had dowels in it so i tried removing one of the back 2 on my engine. i grabbed it with pliers once pulled it never came so then i said nope and took the ones out of the pan and slipped the pan on. well i guess that was enough to get a little piece of metal or something inside the dowel. that bolt stripped the threads out on the block 
and it was the last bolt i tightened to. so if it was a normal bolt along the pan id be like whatever retap and lets go but with it being one with a dowel how would i go about doing this?
and it was the last bolt i tightened to. so if it was a normal bolt along the pan id be like whatever retap and lets go but with it being one with a dowel how would i go about doing this?
Leave the dowel in for alignment and who cares about that bolt. You don't need every one to make a good seal. Which hole was it though? You care to take a pic? Like was it just an Allen or the hex at the adapter
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Yes it was a Allen bolt one of the ones in the back corder that are hidden inside the lower pan I can get a pic later today I think I'll try to heli coil it I was debating on chanceing it but I didn't want to because if it did leak that is a lot of work to take it apart again have to pull motor again.
Really ok well I already have it all apart again so if heli coil don't work maybe I'll give it a shot and just load it up with rtv the Delco stuff is like concrete took me a hr just to clean it off the lower pan
ok thanks for all the help got it all back together today i ended up heli coiling it then i put lock tight on that one just to make sure it was in there good. anyway now im on to another end of the truck maybe i should let you guys no what the deal is bought the truck smashed and am fixing it. (thats why the upper pan was cracked) anyway i noticed on drivers side closest to the cab injector has a fuel leak that little black line that comes of the top im assuming return line is broken off at the injector does anyone no were you can get replacement parts for that rather then the hole harness.?