Horse Trailer Camper
- Thread starter 2004LB7
- Start date
I also got the CNG solenoid in. Looks real easy to convert over to brake fluid compatible seals. I think for the pilot seal I may try some of that black silicone. The rest are just o rings. Just need to get a few edpm ones and then do some testing
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Got the axles convered over to disc brakes. Ran the stainless lines, one on each side of the trailer. Built a shelf up front to mount the actuator and capacitors or battery.
Been playing around with the location of the caps. Need to find me a small battery box to put them in and see where it fits. Would like it to sit right next to the actuator but if the box is too big I'll move it to the other side
Need to do some wiring and get it bled.
Been playing around with the location of the caps. Need to find me a small battery box to put them in and see where it fits. Would like it to sit right next to the actuator but if the box is too big I'll move it to the other side
Need to do some wiring and get it bled.
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Ran a simple test to see if the solenoid valve would work as planned. The first test blew out the silicone seal I put in to replace the incompatible one. Ended up replacing it with a LDPE. Melted it in and sanded it down smooth. More durable and still seals good
Got out my battery charger to charge up the capacitors. With the solenoid powered the actuator and brakes run normally. Without power on the solenoid valve the actuator can pump up the brakes and the check function of the solenoid valve holds the pressure on the calipers
Without any gauge I have know way of really knowing what pressure is being held back or how fast it may leak back but I wanted to see it something simple could get me some results. Jacked up some of the tires to see if the brakes are holding. My next test will be a drag test when I get more of the wiring complete. Well after one hour I still couldn't turn the tires by hand and the rubber hoses where still stiff. Released the pressure by powering up the solenoid valve and I could hear the rush of brake fluid going back into the actuator reservoir
Looks good so far.
Now I just have a bunch of electrical to run. Redoing all of the marker, brake and turn signal lights. Started running EMT conduit and installing boxes at all of the locations where the lights are so when I get around to spray insulation the wires wont get buried and I can still get to them if I ever need to replace them
Got out my battery charger to charge up the capacitors. With the solenoid powered the actuator and brakes run normally. Without power on the solenoid valve the actuator can pump up the brakes and the check function of the solenoid valve holds the pressure on the calipers
Without any gauge I have know way of really knowing what pressure is being held back or how fast it may leak back but I wanted to see it something simple could get me some results. Jacked up some of the tires to see if the brakes are holding. My next test will be a drag test when I get more of the wiring complete. Well after one hour I still couldn't turn the tires by hand and the rubber hoses where still stiff. Released the pressure by powering up the solenoid valve and I could hear the rush of brake fluid going back into the actuator reservoir
Looks good so far.
Now I just have a bunch of electrical to run. Redoing all of the marker, brake and turn signal lights. Started running EMT conduit and installing boxes at all of the locations where the lights are so when I get around to spray insulation the wires wont get buried and I can still get to them if I ever need to replace them
Remembered the thread last night as I was thinking about the new 5er spontaneous upgrade we made yesterday. Been thinking about a 5er for a while, so went to the RV show and went in and out of probably 50 before we got sucked into one we really liked.
Haha, not really anything noteworthy
Been spinning my wheels trying to find a suitable gray water tank that is affordable. I'm at the point of considering building it out of plywood and epoxy.
What I would really like is the one from polyjohn. https://www.polyjohn.com/300-gallon-holding-tank-natural but shipping is a killer.
Been spinning my wheels trying to find a suitable gray water tank that is affordable. I'm at the point of considering building it out of plywood and epoxy.
What I would really like is the one from polyjohn. https://www.polyjohn.com/300-gallon-holding-tank-natural but shipping is a killer.
Do you need 300 gallons? Can you split the grey water and ground dump it when boon docking instead of catching it?
Yeah they are proud of them. https://www.plastic-mart.com/category/34/rv-holding-tanks
Yeah they are proud of them. https://www.plastic-mart.com/category/34/rv-holding-tanks
300 gallons? Not at all. I would be fine with 100 gal but a 100 gal "RV" holding tank is $500+ while the other is just under $500 for 300 gal. The biggest issue I have is many of them are too tall. I would like to find one similar to Polyjohn's 250 gallon tank but only 12" tall not 18". 16" I can deal with but 18" is a bit too much. I can make either work if I wanted to but am willing to wait for the right one and price
The biggest problem with it all is it seems no one locally has anything like this in stock so shipping ends up being close to $250-300
The biggest problem with it all is it seems no one locally has anything like this in stock so shipping ends up being close to $250-300
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