Hmmmmm
- Thread starter Chevy1925
- Start date
Na, awaiting my newly upgraded turbo to come in tomorrow. Truck is tucked away on the side yard till I put it together. As soon as I got back from our trip I had to yank the turbo And get it shipped out for Russell. Lookin like ill have time next week to finally get back on that. This weekend is full of wedding crap
90% there. Need to add limit straps, move my drop bracket supports up higher, and cut the pinch weld on the back of the fender.
These springs won't work like I hoped. They will do ok for dding right now but I'm going to up the size to a 16" long spring and a 800lbs rating. Should work out just right. Had I known I could put. 16" tall spring on this shock, I'd have done it right away. Oh well, it's just money right? Lol
You are correct but it was on a jack cause the inner tie rod needed replacing. Right now the cv's are perfectly flat which is lower than I wanted till I changed the rear end as well but I can't add more preload without fear of coil bind. That's why I need more spring. At this point I'm going to leave the height right there and just get the rear lowered. That way I don't have to lower the front end when ever I wanna launch in 4wd
Overall ride right now even on this too soft of a spring is awesome. I've been hitting speed bumps on every road I can think of on the way home just to float over them. Nailed a few curbs as well and felt like a little bump till the rear hits lol. I feel the compression might be a bit soft for the setup but ill see what changes with the new springs. I've forgotten what it was like to have a ride like this from my old 1500 prerunner
You went way better, pfff. Its still ifs... 
looks good though. What spring rates are you running? Like those FOA's? How is your rear suspension set up?
looks good though. What spring rates are you running? Like those FOA's? How is your rear suspension set up?
Hahaha. Right now it's dual 1500 springs which puts me at 750. I was hoping they would be enough and I'd be able to run the secondary spring stopper on the last inch of shock travel as a sort of bumpstop but its just too soft to do it so I'm swapping to a 2" longer 800lbs spring which should do the trick. I really like the FOAs. The guys there offer some awesome customer service. I wound up stripping a preload collar being my own fault and they shipped a new one right out to me free of charge.
Rear at this point is stock leaves and a 4" block. I'm going to make my own 1" drop shackle for now to set the ride height I want. I've gone round and round on what I want to do to the rear and still be able to haul my toy hauler without issue. I've gone from 4 linked rear on bags, to deavers and bags, to running a mono leaf and bags, or leaving it as is. Still dunno what I want. Maybe a deaver mini pack. I don't know
Rear at this point is stock leaves and a 4" block. I'm going to make my own 1" drop shackle for now to set the ride height I want. I've gone round and round on what I want to do to the rear and still be able to haul my toy hauler without issue. I've gone from 4 linked rear on bags, to deavers and bags, to running a mono leaf and bags, or leaving it as is. Still dunno what I want. Maybe a deaver mini pack. I don't know
looks sweet :thumb: wish this setup was doable on a leveled pickup kinda over the torsion bars and would love to have a little better/smoother ride up front
kinda over the torsion bars and would love to have a little better/smoother ride up front
looks sweet :thumb: wish this setup was doable on a leveled pickup
Getting there. Once this is finalized ill be working on that. Carter 44 (Levi my good buddy) and Brian have been chomping at the bit for me to get something for them.
Nice! I went with Icons. Single rate 2.5", 10" travel. Valved for a dmax. Not sure of the spring rate off the top of my head.
My rear was set up with stock leafs and a shackle flip, shims for pinion angle and radius arm styled trac bars that were attached to a shackle at the frame end. It rode like shit on the freeway. Did well off road, but travel was limited by the trac bars. Now, its set up with stock hangers and 6" Deavers. Ride quality is night and day. Deavers are the way to go. I thought about doing a four link set up while still running the leaf springs. The leafs would have shackles at both ends. Or thought about running a cantilever set up.
You need to ditch those blocks and run Deavers. Especially with the way your front end is set up.
My rear was set up with stock leafs and a shackle flip, shims for pinion angle and radius arm styled trac bars that were attached to a shackle at the frame end. It rode like shit on the freeway. Did well off road, but travel was limited by the trac bars. Now, its set up with stock hangers and 6" Deavers. Ride quality is night and day. Deavers are the way to go. I thought about doing a four link set up while still running the leaf springs. The leafs would have shackles at both ends. Or thought about running a cantilever set up.
You need to ditch those blocks and run Deavers. Especially with the way your front end is set up.
Looks great!:beer:
Now I just need to figure out how to get these to fit on the front of mine!... I might have to notch the frame?!
Now I just need to figure out how to get these to fit on the front of mine!... I might have to notch the frame?!
Looks great!:beer:
Now I just need to figure out how to get these to fit on the front of mine!... I might have to notch the frame?!
personally, i hate their shocks but if you got a good deal on them, then hell yeah! either a frame notch or new UCA will take care of it
you got it!
yeah you will probably have a lighter spring on yours than me due to the "leverage affect" a-arms give. if i did go linked setup, i would ditch the springs. air bags would give me all the travel and support id need. My only issue with deavers is towing. my trailer is very front heavy due to design. i would be afraid my weight distribution bars wouldnt be able to keep the ass end of the truck up enough with out air bags of some sort.
the one problem with running these on a 8" fabtech is you wont be able to set the ride height back to where fabtech has you set for a full 8" lift due to the availible springs for a 2.5" shock. untill something heavier than 800lbs spring in a 14-16" long setup comes out, the most you would get is about 6" of lift out of the kit.
I'm curious what you're thinking for the lowered route. I've been researching the ones that have been done and want to do coilovers on the front of my standard cab. Any idea what you plan on doing here?
custom build shocks are the only way if you want to use the factory mounting points. luckily, it wont cost an arm and leg to do it though
I can and like to fabricate and mine is 2wd and will end up low, so I could care less if they bolt into the stock mounts or not.
You can PM if you are willing to talk to me about it if you want. I don't want to clutter up your thread with my crap.
You can PM if you are willing to talk to me about it if you want. I don't want to clutter up your thread with my crap.
na its all good! if you cut out the upper shock mount, you can make any coilover work for your ride height. its when you want to keep those mounting points where it begins to become a pain.
What i would do is find where you want the suspension to stop on its full upward travel, take a measurement from teh ground to the hub. then let the suspension drop to where you want full downward travel to be and take that measurement from the hub to the ground. subtract the downward travel number from the upward travel number and thats your wheel travel. Divide it by two and thats essentially the shock stroke you need to make it work for your suspension. Now with that info, you can start searching shocks you want to use and using their extended and collapsed lengths, you can start finding what shock will work based on its shock stroke and lengths and where it needs the upper shock mount to be mounted. the biggest key is you DO NOT want the shock to be the limiter in any part of the suspension, specially if your going to build a new upper shock mount as its much easier to NOT have that happen. i have always used the rule of thumb of "keep a 1/4 of shock shaft showing at full bump, and 1/4" of shock shaft left to extend at full drop".
it sounds complicated but its really not. just lots of measuring, recording, searching, and back around again.