hid's are messing with my radio signal

DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

<----new hotness
Jan 17, 2010
5,163
12
38
idaho
shop.dieselmafiaperformance.com
Hey you guys :threadjacked: lol:rofl: I will report back on what I find also had a asm ballast I put in seem like it was burning the bulb out it was a 8k then it was like a 5 k after I had it on the bulb seemed burnt also after I took both ballast an bulb an put a old xentec back in with a new bulb think that ballast is bad to?
 

scratchrob13

<---30+ psi (both)
Jun 18, 2008
129
0
0
Boston|Suffield,CT|Lincoln,NH
Hey you guys :threadjacked: lol:rofl: I will report back on what I find also had a asm ballast I put in seem like it was burning the bulb out it was a 8k then it was like a 5 k after I had it on the bulb seemed burnt also after I took both ballast an bulb an put a old xentec back in with a new bulb think that ballast is bad to?

When ballast go bad they tend to flicker, or not ignite the bulbs... I don't hear too often of the ballast burning the bulb out... however if you are constantly burning new bulbs out, I would be swapping the ballast out for sure.

That is to get this thread back on topic!
 

Ian J

123
Nov 5, 2010
41
0
0
52
Merredin Western Australia
As far as static is concerned it is can be from the following reasons
1. High frequency fead back on the input power from a dirty power supply inside the ballast
2. EMI emissions from the ballast case from component that arnt sheilded
3. EMI emssions from the out put lead
4. EMI emmisions from the burner or globe
All of the above except the globe can be removed by designing the ballast properly.
Part of my business specialises in HID lighting and we get specific ballasts manufactured to specification.
this involes zero feed back signal on the input, fully earthed case and shielded, fully shielded out put lead up to the globe.
this is a zero emmision ballast upto the globe which if the light housing is below the antenna it should be fine.
These are avalible in 50W output "Refered to as 55W because thats what they draw.
I also keep 35W 70W and 100W systems.
The basic 35W cost from $95 as kit but you can get lower quality units for 1/3 of the price
The 70W and 50W fully shielded systems cost $250[for 2 globes and 2 ballasts]
The 100W systems are 100W output 110-115W draw but a but noisy,
They are an agresive ballast fast start up from cold and the light is something else.

As far as working with the ballasts you have,
1. earth the case to the earthinput lead [ Make sure the system is not earth switchin.
2. Earth the same earth to the radio earth and ground the shit out of every thing else as well as this will absorb and kill any other noise
3. Tinfoil around the output from the globe back to the ballast and earthed will neutralise HV emisions

I used to do all this nearly 10 years ago when I first started with the HID systems and after a few years I decided to design my own
The the 5012HDFSS 50W ballasts [50W 12V] are avalible in lead lenghts from 30cm to 1m long and come standard with a single weather Pack 2 pin plug to prevent lead damage.
I supply these to a lot of CASE, NH and JD dealers as new fitments because they are reliable and can be roof mounted in combines with any modifications.
hope this helps:thumb:
 

bigblkbeast

Puff Puff Passed
Oct 17, 2010
4
0
0
Conroe Texas
I took the HIDs out of my colorado before getting rid of it. And put them in my duramax and Ive never had a problem. Well in the beginning I had problems with the converter box but after replacing that and the fuse no problems here. And no problems with the radio either.
 

Will

New member
Apr 30, 2008
137
0
0
Mt. Pleasant, IA
www.myspace.com
I had the same problem. It was suggested on dieselplace to put ferrite chokes on. Put 2 on each high beam ballast. I had the problem when the high beams were on. Went to my local radio shack and got the only 2 they had and put one and each ballast and it helped a ton. I've ordered 4 more and am going to put on the other two and see how that helps.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103222