Hey BTPA Guys, hitch question
- Thread starter durallymax
- Start date
I have the putnam V and reinforced it before it went on the truck after seeing johns tow beast bend
well Ill either do 4x4x3/8 or 3x3x1/2. Not sure which one though. I guess Ill just see whats most convient up at work.
Well here is what it is.
I cut two pieces of 3x4" 1/2" thick angle iron to use as the brackets that bolt to the frame.
Welded in between the two brackets are two pieces of 4x4" tube with a 3/8" wall. One at the front and one at the back. I also notched the tube to accept the 3x3" tube with 1/2" wall which serves as the reciever tube. I then added 3/8" plate gussets in the corners to try and make this hitch as sturdy as possible. Wouldve had it almost done by now, but the receiver tube they cut me had a 3/8" wall so the 2" stock when slid into it is too loose.
The adjustable pulling hitch Is made out of 2" solid stock. For the adjustment We drilled 9 59/64" holes to accept 7/8" pins. The loop was cut out of 1" plate by a guy at work with a much steadier hand than me. It has the regulation 3x3.75" hole with 1" og material around it. In the back I had him notch and 2x2" slot so it can slide over the vertical part of the hitch. Off of It I will be welding two 3/4" plates that will have the 59/64" holes in them. One on top, one on the bottom. So In the end it will straddle on hole if you get what im trying to say.
And what I can say is drilling 59/64" holes through 2" bar takes forever. We spent 3 hours drilling 9 holes.
I cut two pieces of 3x4" 1/2" thick angle iron to use as the brackets that bolt to the frame.
Welded in between the two brackets are two pieces of 4x4" tube with a 3/8" wall. One at the front and one at the back. I also notched the tube to accept the 3x3" tube with 1/2" wall which serves as the reciever tube. I then added 3/8" plate gussets in the corners to try and make this hitch as sturdy as possible. Wouldve had it almost done by now, but the receiver tube they cut me had a 3/8" wall so the 2" stock when slid into it is too loose.
The adjustable pulling hitch Is made out of 2" solid stock. For the adjustment We drilled 9 59/64" holes to accept 7/8" pins. The loop was cut out of 1" plate by a guy at work with a much steadier hand than me. It has the regulation 3x3.75" hole with 1" og material around it. In the back I had him notch and 2x2" slot so it can slide over the vertical part of the hitch. Off of It I will be welding two 3/4" plates that will have the 59/64" holes in them. One on top, one on the bottom. So In the end it will straddle on hole if you get what im trying to say.
And what I can say is drilling 59/64" holes through 2" bar takes forever. We spent 3 hours drilling 9 holes.
well here it is all finished for the most part. Still need to add the bump stops and paint of coarse.
Its a little overbuilt and weighs about 100-150lbs, but I dont think Ill be twisting it anytime soon.
Its a little overbuilt and weighs about 100-150lbs, but I dont think Ill be twisting it anytime soon.
well here it is all finished for the most part. Still need to add the bump stops and paint of coarse.
Its a little overbuilt and weighs about 100-150lbs, but I dont think Ill be twisting it anytime soon.
That looks pretty stout.
Yes I will be putting a sleeve over it. Just didnt have one at the time.
I may even add a gusset or two to it too.
I may even add a gusset or two to it too.
21. Hitch must be rigid in all directions at all times. A hitch angle of 0 to 30 degrees maximum is allowed with no leeway. This will be measured from hook point to hitch attachment point on the frame. Draw bar length, measured from center of rear axle to hook point, will be a minimum of 27% of truck wheelbase. Steel hitching device will be no more then 1 1/8 inch thick, no less than 3/4 inch thick. Hitch height is not to exceed 26 inches. It must be visible, clear hook mounted in horizontal alignment. All hitches will have only one adjustable supporting point and it must be located no more than 6 inches from hook point. That supporting point, if mounted to frame, must be vertical if the attachment is from above or below. If attachment is to the rear end, it must be at or below the center point of axle. No part of the draw bar and/or draw bar assembly framework may protrude through the box floor. (2009)
Hope this helps.
this is my draw bar hitch we built for isp rules, will it work for badger?
(it's 27% of my wheel base)
thanks,
-jake
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According to this part of the rule "All hitches will have only one adjustable supporting point and it must be located no more than 6 inches from hook point. That supporting point, if mounted to frame, must be vertical if the attachment is from above or below." I would say no, it does not meet the rules. I know it's stupid, but I didn't make the rules.
yeah who ever wrote that hasn't been around very long. looks like i'm out of badger.
I proposed a much simpler rule but, I was over ruled. Most of this rule came from the Super Stock gasser class that had been in use for years. I don't like the idea that the tech officials now have to carry around an angleometer, and a calculator just for teching hitches.
This rule is still better than the alternative.... A "Reese style" hitch.
true, i think a better way of keeping the angle of the draw bar in check is like what itpa is doing this year. they are measuring the distance from the top of the rear axle to the bottom of the frame. this way it limits the amount of angle someone can have with their draw bar. i think their limit is 18''.