help with lly injectors

duramatt05

New member
Nov 21, 2010
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sunderland, Ont
i am doing the headgaskets on my truck and i am down to getting the injectors, i am having a hard time getting the fuel return lines off, do they just pull off when the clip is takin out? i tried to take the injectors out as well, took the bolt out and they move around a bit, is there something else holding them in or should they pop out? Do i NEED to buy the removal tool?? any help would be awesome. thanks
 

wilsonck

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May 8, 2008
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Calgary, Ab
I have only replaced one of my lly injectors so far. This is what I followed, and didn't use a special tool.



Prior to removing the fuel injector pipes, use compressed air to blow any debris from between the injector line and fittings. Wipe the fittings clean of debris.


Disconnect the negative battery cable
Remove the fuel injector pipes
Remove the fuel return hose clips.
Remove the fuel return hose from the injectors
Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors.
Remove the fuel injector bracket bolts. (hold down)
Remove the fuel injectors with brackets
If necessary, remove the fuel injector bracket pins.
Remove and discard the copper washer from the fuel injector bore.
Remove and discard the O-ring from the fuel injector.
 

IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
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Spray WD-40 or the penetrating oil of your choice around where the return line goes into the injector. After that sits for a while twist the return fitting back and forth as you pull out on them. The bore of the injector rusts above where the o-ring is on the return line and makes them difficult to remove. As far as getting the injectors out take a small pry bar underneath the hold down bracket and use that to pry up on the injector.
 

dieselboy04'

DieselBoy04'
Mar 23, 2008
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Virginia
don't break those lill plastic "T"s or lose any of the clips. dealerships can only get the full assembly (or so they told me) for either side. I'm think it was like 30 bucks a side and im not even sure that was including the clips, which to me sounds crazy.


As far as getting them out, I presoaked and twisted back and forth while pulling, it did the trick.
 

duramatt05

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Nov 21, 2010
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We got all the drivers side out. They poped out easy as anything. The passenger side is not easy got the front two out but the back two are really stuck and can't get em out.
 

duramatt05

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Nov 21, 2010
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so got one injector left the back one on the passenger side. we spent since like 10am trying to get the last two out. finally got one out, took a whole lot of lube and prying and twisting. still cant get the last one. the passenger side injectors have been really covered in carbon. the drivers side were clean and coud almost pull out by hand. is this common? or at least on trucks that see salt on the roads??
 

duramatt05

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Nov 21, 2010
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still cant get the last injector out:mad:, its in there good. it will wiggle around sideways and have it out maybe 1/4 to 1/2 an inch but it will not come any further have wasted a lot of hours trying to get it out. have pryed, lubed, twisted. any body have any tips or anything that could possibly help please.
thanks
 

wilsonck

New member
May 8, 2008
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Calgary, Ab
The one I replaced is the one you are trying to get out. I just pried it a bit as you did and it came out. No tricks. You must just have a lot of carbon buildup.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
 

duramatt05

New member
Nov 21, 2010
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ya it must have a lot of build up ive done a lot of prying, and it looks like the hold down is gonna pull out of the injector. i cant believe how its in there. and what is the thread size on the injector for the fuel line the other injector that was stuck that i got out the threads are a bit wrecked was gonna just run a die over it to clean them up?
 

duramatt05

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Nov 21, 2010
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finally got it out. caused a huge set back but im back to the races gettin the heads off, just gotta get 2 more up pipe bolts out of the manifold on the drivers side and they can come off.
 

FamilyWagon

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Jul 7, 2010
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Western Mass
im in the same boat here, just started to remove them, and it broke.... anyone think of a chap fix, my dealer wants $150 per side. i may try to glue the broke piece on if i can get it out
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
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48
Boise Idaho
Did they look like this? If so, it is caused from a loose injector hold down bolt or there was something under the copper. The o-ring only keeps dirt from packing around the injector body.
IMG_0090.jpg
[/IMG]
 

FamilyWagon

New member
Jul 7, 2010
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Western Mass
most of mine looked like that when i pulled them out. im amazed that any fuel came out of the tip at all. As far as repairing the retun line... no good, the super glue didnt hold. i was going to Epoxy it but i found a place on line that sells the complete return assy for 19.95 (http://www.hdiesel.com/productdetails.asp?cat=Injectors&ID=140&pID=631). truck started easily, althouh i forgot to tighten the fuel feed line into the FICM and made a fountain with my Air dog pre-charging the system, good to go other than the broken return line. i will have to wait to replace it as soon as it gets here
 

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
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Upstate N.Y
Did they look like this? If so, it is caused from a loose injector hold down bolt or there was something under the copper. The o-ring only keeps dirt from packing around the injector body.
IMG_0090.jpg
[/IMG]

FYI for anyone reading this thread, those O-rings come in the Harbor Freight O ring kits that cost 5 bucks for about 100 of them. I forget what the dealer charged for them individually but it was more for 1 then I paid for the whole H.F. kit.. Also Pat suggested lightly sanding down the copper washers to get a even seal which I have done in the past with success..Hopefully that can save you guys a few bucks..
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
FYI for anyone reading this thread, those O-rings come in the Harbor Freight O ring kits that cost 5 bucks for about 100 of them. I forget what the dealer charged for them individually but it was more for 1 then I paid for the whole H.F. kit.. Also Pat suggested lightly sanding down the copper washers to get a even seal which I have done in the past with success..Hopefully that can save you guys a few bucks..

Yep, Dealer wants 10 bucks a seal IIRC. I used cat silicone seals, there free:D

Also make sure the seating surface in the head is clean as well. I had to use a drill and bore brush with scotchbrite to get the carbon dug out of the head. On a side note don't forget aluminum can be eaten away very quickly by using a powered abrasive so use caution here & a lite touch.

My injector only had 1500 miles on it from a warranty swap out. I did tips & found this 1. Dealer didn't get all the carbon cleaned out of the injector hole, you can see the bits of carbon smashed into the face of the copper.
 

duramatt05

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Nov 21, 2010
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sunderland, Ont
Got it all back running again. It was a real fun job to say the least. Had to replace the passenger side return line got it for like 20 bucks from merchant, the stealership wanted 220 bucks. And the two injector holddowns on the ones we had trouble with we actually bent prying on them. Put them in the press and got them back and went back together awesome after that. Runs great:thumb: so after havin a cracked head and all these little problems. I spent a lot more then wut I wanted. But its running