Help! Truck No Start

[mbc230]

Hello,

I was getting ready to get my truck started and well no bueno. Dash lights up, but nothing. Batteries seem good and even tried with a jumper pack. Same result. I have a video to share. See below:

See link to my one drive for the video: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1yCoPCN-hEvJ_M1fDY90cIhV6TwJwyG13?usp=drive_link

I am thinking it is a starter. Any ideas? Thank you.

 

[2004LB7]

Is the engine rotating at all or does it seemed licked up? What happens of you hold the key for a little longer?

 

[mbc230]

Is the engine rotating at all or does it seemed licked up? What happens of you hold the key for a little longer?

No not at all. I hold the Key and it sounds like a no start condition and the lights just flicker. Why would it be locked up? It ran the last time I drove the truck. The starter is the original starter.

 

[2004LB7]

Just trying to determine if it really is a battery issue, connection or stuck engine.

Start with measuring the voltage of the batteries while cranking. Let us know what it is. Put a charger on them overnight and try again. Clean the terminals and the other end of the cables

Look at the engine crank while someone tries starting it. See if it is rotating at all

There has been some cases where the transmission locked up. I think it was related to the fluid pump seizing up. You can try turning the crank with a socket and long breaker bar on the front snout

It could be the starter but they usually get slower and slower. It's not common to just quit while still seemingly working or trying to start the engine

 

[mbc230]

Just trying to determine if it really is a battery issue, connection or stuck engine.

Start with measuring the voltage of the batteries while cranking. Let us know what it is. Put a charger on them overnight and try again. Clean the terminals and the other end of the cables

Look at the engine crank while someone tries starting it. See if it is rotating at all

There has been some cases where the transmission locked up. I think it was related to the fluid pump seizing up. You can try turning the crank with a socket and long breaker bar on the front snout

It could be the starter but they usually get slower and slower. It's not common to just quit while still seemingly working or trying to start the engine

I have a NOCO Battery Conditioner for both batteries. So I was a little alarmed. I hold the key in the run position (Furthest you can go) and those two lights (Glow Plug Indicator and CEL) just flicker when holding the key down. No cranking at all.

I can watch to see if the engine cranks. I will send a follow up when I am able to do that. The turning the crack with a breaker bar is a little out of my wheelhouse. I am an Electonics guy but thank you for your advise. It does have the original starter in it. Thank you.

 

[2004LB7]

I have a NOCO Battery Conditioner for both batteries. So I was a little alarmed. I hold the key in the run position (Furthest you can go) and those two lights (Glow Plug Indicator and CEL) just flicker when holding the key down. No cracking at all.

I can watch to see if the engine cranks. I will send a follow up when I am able to do that. The turning the crack with a breaker bar is a little out of my wheelhouse. I am an Electonics guy but thank you for your advise. It does have the original starter in it. Thank you.

Classic symptoms of a very dead battery or bad connection

 

[mbc230]

Classic symptoms of a very dead battery or bad connection

Two batteries going dead? I will try it with my NOCO Boost Pro once it is charged fully. Thank you for the heads up.

 

[2004LB7]

Two batteries going dead? I will try it with my NOCO Boost Pro once it is charged fully. Thank you for the heads up.

They are connected in parallel. So, if one goes, so does the other

 

[mbc230]

They are connected in parallel. So, if one goes, so does the other

Makes sense. Thank you for your advice as it is much appreciated.

 

[mbc230]

It was the batteries……….replaced them with Diehard AGM’s and running perfectly.

One more thing any advise on Lithium Batteries for the Diesels. Can they be a good replacment? Can they be used or bad idea? I read mixed reviews.

Thank you for your advise and knowledge.

 

[Ridin'GMC]

The issue with lithium battery is they don't like the cold weather. AGM is better for all around weather.

 

[2004LB7]

Cold and hot sensitivity. The biggest issue will be trying to charge them in below 0°. Lithium plating happens and shorts out the battery making for a fire risk. The other issue is the lack of an affordable quality BMS that can tolerate the huge currents used to start diesels.

If LTO batteries mature enough they might start showing up in vehicles. But that is still a ways away. LFP chemistry is the best match right now. But still doesn't solve the issues described above.

Super capacitors are another possibility. Ran them in my LB7, and currently in my Jetta. Best cranking amps of any viable alternative. Plus no drastic cranking amp loss in the cold. Rated down to -40°. Rated for over 1 million charge/discharge cycles. But possibly the best advantage is no real degradation when left or stored at zero volts. Biggest disadvantage is the low capacity. So you really only get one try at starting. If it doesn't start, then you'll likely need a jump. The set I have in my Jetta has been in continues service for about 14 years. Still cranks as good as it did when new. But because it's left me with a no start multiple times (always at home or work where I can just plug in my charger) I've considered going back to a traditional lead acid. But being stubborn and not willing to admit it's not the best choice I keep running them. And probably will for as long as I have this car. (If I don't transfer it to my next one )

 

[mbc230]

Cold and hot sensitivity. The biggest issue will be trying to charge them in below 0°. Lithium plating happens and shorts out the battery making for a fire risk. The other issue is the lack of an affordable quality BMS that can tolerate the huge currents used to start diesels.

If LTO batteries mature enough they might start showing up in vehicles. But that is still a ways away. LFP chemistry is the best match right now. But still doesn't solve the issues described above.

Super capacitors are another possibility. Ran them in my LB7, and currently in my Jetta. Best cranking amps of any viable alternative. Plus no drastic cranking amp loss in the cold. Rated down to -40°. Rated for over 1 million charge/discharge cycles. But possibly the best advantage is no real degradation when left or stored at zero volts. Biggest disadvantage is the low capacity. So you really only get one try at starting. If it doesn't start, then you'll likely need a jump. The set I have in my Jetta has been in continues service for about 14 years. Still cranks as good as it did when new. But because it's left me with a no start multiple times (always at home or work where I can just plug in my charger) I've considered going back to a traditional lead acid. But being stubborn and not willing to admit it's not the best choice I keep running them. And probably will for as long as I have this car. (If I don't transfer it to my next one )

That is a really good explanation. I am taking a shot at this, but I guess the large battery packs in Electric cars have far surpassed the AGM battery as far as longevity and how they hold a charge in cold weather, because of how they utilized in the large battery packs and that they have their own cooling systems. I hope one day it will catch up for "Cranking" and "Electronic" (Automotive Internal Systems) applications. Thank you for your knowledge as it is welcoming.