Help!! Pulling apart CV shafts off idle!

[04LB7yz]

Ive been watching this Forum for quite some time now and have found it very useful! :thumb: I spent a ton of time researching my issue but have came up with no useful info so far. So here is my problem, I have a 2004 2500HD with a 6" pro comp drop out lift (this is the lift that drops all the factory equipment and geomtry 6 inches) so essentially all of my angles are very similar to stock. About a year ago I broke my first shaft.. passenger side inside joint, it basically exploded. Since then i have put 4 new shafts in it with them pulling apart under almost no load... ive had the truck on a lift multiple times inspected all the mounts and i cant find anything wrong with them. My angles are almost level, i have the rare parts tie rods with new idler/pitman arms with braces, also installed a new transmision mount. I have had it at different shops and asked them and noone has been any help, I hope someone can shed some light on this problem as i am incredibly sick of having a two wheel drive truck, I live in northern MN so 4X4 is a must in the winter.

 

[Max Attitude]

What brand or where are you getting the new shafts?

 

[mike diesel]

^^x2.

Autozone shafts won't cut it.

 

[04LB7yz]

Ive gotten 3 from orielly which have a billet cup on the inside i replaced both sides with these when it first happened the drivers side is still in it working fine. the last one i put in was a factory reman from napa which pulled apart with the wheels straight on ice with virtually no throttle, all have lifetime warranties which is nice but it does me no good if everytime i put it in 4x4 it pulls apart... i called pro comp and they told me i need to put new genuine gm shafts in it but i honestly do not see how that would fix it plus it would cost me $1,200 only to find out thats not the problem. with the truck on flat ground wheels straight i can feel a 1/4 to 1/2 of the bearing through the boot sticking outside of the cup

 

[IOWA LLY]

Why don't you try putting a spacer between the differential and CV shaft like some lift kits use?

 

[Max Attitude]

Hmm. I have 1 napa replacement and 1 Advance Auto (wanted to see which lasted better). The advance auto boot already ripped. I haven't had a problem with either holding together though with cranked bars so far.

 

[04LB7yz]

I thought the same thing to put in a spacer but the lift i have is not supposed to use them. I have been told if i put them in there it will bottom out the shaft into the cup when the suspension collapses. The reason other lifts use them is because of the different spindles which space the tire away from the diff so they need to bring the shaft out to compensate the difference.

 

[Dallas S]

I had the same issue, the diff is not in the right spot. Measure it out. I'm almost certain this was with the same lift. Took forever but brackets did turn out to be bent. Honestly it wasn't on my personal truck, and I don't remember the exact details, but it was indeed bent brackets. With that said I ran the same braket lift and never had any problems

 

[IOWA LLY]

Install a spacer, remove torsion bar from that side and cycle the suspension through its travel and see if the cv binds. If not your good to go.

Or, remove both cv shafts and torsion bars. Move both spindles up so they straight out from the differential. Then measure from the differential flange to the bearing in the spindle. Then you will know what the difference is and you can add a spacer or try and correct the differential position.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[04LB7yz]

So if i pull it apart and the diff has shifted to the drivers side, which is what im guessing happened, does anyone know where I can get parts for it? Ive also done a lot of looking around trying to find a polyurethane upgraded bushing kit for the differential mounts, does this even exist?

 

[Chevy1925]

I would suggest ditching that lift kit as soon as you can and either go with their newer spindle drop style or to a completely different company. Even if you fix the issue, it's gunna happen again. Like Dallas said, I've read about this issue happening on old procomp lifts like you have

 

[04LB7yz]

Thanks everyone for all the help! Its greatly appreciated! If this is going to just be an ongoing thing and the only fix is a different lift, i might as well just do a solid axle swap and do away with the IFS. Or has anybody made any kind of a more rigid mounting setup for thes diffs? I was thinking of making something similar to a rear traction bar with heim joints to try and brace it in a more solid position? Or would that just be a waisted effort?