Help Me Decide

Fingers

Village Idiot
Vendor/Sponsor
Apr 1, 2008
1,724
109
63
White Oak, PA
Lift pump for the win

My LLY is about 15k from 300k miles. No problem trusting it other then the transmission. It's not built so I always have in the back of my mind that if I push it too hard it will limp. But other than that it's in great shape. WT trim so no too much electronics to go wrong
Lift pump is 20 years old too. Add that to the list....
 
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pl_silverado

Active member
Jan 29, 2012
144
109
43
Sounds like you’re just done with it at this point from your replies, and you just want a new truck. So go buy a new truck and don’t look back.
 

Fingers

Village Idiot
Vendor/Sponsor
Apr 1, 2008
1,724
109
63
White Oak, PA
Sounds like you’re just done with it at this point from your replies, and you just want a new truck. So go buy a new truck and don’t look back.

Trying to justify the $$ and don't want to do it half ass. If I put say $20K into the old girl, she is only worth $10K - $15K and lives for another 5 years. If I take the money, and the residual the truck is worth, I could maybe step up a decade for the same money. Take the same money and buy a lot newer and I have a doable payment.

The key is what it will take to "do it right". Keep the refresh below $8K, and she lives to pull for another 50K-75K Miles and all is good.
 

pl_silverado

Active member
Jan 29, 2012
144
109
43
Trying to justify the $$ and don't want to do it half ass. If I put say $20K into the old girl, she is only worth $10K - $15K and lives for another 5 years. If I take the money, and the residual the truck is worth, I could maybe step up a decade for the same money. Take the same money and buy a lot newer and I have a doable payment.

The key is what it will take to "do it right". Keep the refresh below $8K, and she lives to pull for another 50K-75K Miles and all is good.

Having built a few trucks myself in the last 2 years, costs spiral out of control rather quickly with pricing these days. Take your best estimate and double it if you want an accurate number.

$20k will turn into $40k in the blink of an eye once you start digging into it and upgrading stuff that pops up. I have the spreadsheet to prove it. lol.

You’d be better off in the long run just upgrading to a nice 17-19 L5P.
 

036.6turbo

Active member
Jan 17, 2014
756
100
43
Find a low mileage 15.5-16 LML, put your short block in, cp3 and some tuning and you’re good to go.
But I am biased and I think they’re very underrated in the DMax community.
I'm very happy with my 15.5 LML. No plans to replace it. Even though there are head gaskets in its not-too-distant future. I'm very familiar with the newer trucks, but 80k+ sticker price? I just can't get there. And yes, I have the money, but I guess I'm just too cheap.
 
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jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
1,071
47
48
Danbury, TX
Trying to justify the $$ and don't want to do it half ass. If I put say $20K into the old girl, she is only worth $10K - $15K and lives for another 5 years. If I take the money, and the residual the truck is worth, I could maybe step up a decade for the same money. Take the same money and buy a lot newer and I have a doable payment.

The key is what it will take to "do it right". Keep the refresh below $8K, and she lives to pull for another 50K-75K Miles and all is good.
I guess it's at this point do you really need that big of a truck? The only thing keeping me from jumping in my 04 and going long distance today is the fuel gauge is intermittent. The dash cover is missing, but that does not affect the fact that she runs and AC still works. And for some reason the cloth seats in the 04 to me just "feel" more comfortable.

How much can you move from the engine in the truck to the short block and be comfortable and reliable? What makes it unreliable to take long distance? Those are the things to consider as that is where most of your money is going to be focused. Either the WT or the PRO in the newer if you do not want the bells and whistles, but remember working on the newer ones takes the MDII system to even talk beyond what a $30 scanner will tell you.

You might be able to find a used lower mileage truck 2-3 years old and save some money.
quick search at one dealer in Houston (If you were close to Houston, their warranty forever is tempting):
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,768
836
113
Texas!!!
Have you considered pulling the oil pans to see if the bearing surfaces will allow you to just roll in some new main bearings and rod bearings without actually doing a full refresh?
 
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Hoser

Active member
Jun 19, 2016
237
32
28
Farmington, MN
I love the older trucks, as most here do. My 01 is so comfortable, the interior is in beautiful shape, and even though it’s rusty, I don’t care, I could care less how people perceive me based on my vehicle.

With that being said, I have a new truck. There is something nice about the reliability and warranty when you are out on the road. I tow heavy and often, so I have a Diesel. I don’t like leather, so I have an LT. It’s been a great truck. But if I was just running around close to home and just occasionally towing not much weight, there’s really no reason to have the truck and especially the Diesel. And the STUPID HUGE size really really sucks, I hate it, there’s no reason for them to be so big and so tall.

Continuing that thought, and I think it was brought up already, would you consider a gasser? They have the Allison 10 speed, they make great power, reliable, much less complicated, less emissions, and just a nice drivetrain. Unless you are racking up tons of miles with a lot of weight behind you on a regular basis, the gasser is more than enough.

As far as price, people regularly say these trucks cost $80,000, or $100,000. And that’s true if you throw a bunch of money at options that likely will never get used. You can get a very nice gas truck in the low to mid $50ks, and even a diesel if you really felt you needed it for $60k. Still a lot of money, but you don’t need to spend $80k on a truck that has a few extra cameras and a fancy badge on the side. A WT or LT will be magnitudes “better” than your LLY as far as options and stuff.