Help me Decide What Parts to Use in my Motor Build

duramaxdiesel

Dmax Nut
Oct 23, 2008
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Montreal, Canada
So I'm going to build a LB7. Yeah yeah, I know I could just ask Tom and the guys at the shop what to use but I figured I'd throw it on here and ask too. Being at the shop and all I can get a break on parts but I only want to do this once. I won't be pulling a trailer or anything, just mostly drag racing and the sled a few times a year. I want twins for sure. BIG TWINS. I'm still going to drive the truck on the street.

I went over what I was going to do on the DP but I'll reiterate here too. Cryo everything that I can including the block. Keyed crank and cam. Rods. Which ones? Should I cut the pistons? I will coat them. Re use my ARP headstuds and get a set of main studs. Talk to Don M about injectors. Dual CP3's. 4500 up pipes. Putting it all together will be done by me and ALOT of help from Tom and Glenn at the shop:D That alone will save me a few dollars.

I just want to do this once and not worry about it for a couple of years. The truck will only be used in the summer months and stored in the winter. Right now it's at Braydens shop outside because I blew a hole in the block on my way back home. Whole other story:D

Anyways, thanks for the help guys.

Nick
 

blue68383

Shooting for 11s
May 15, 2008
105
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CA
I will be doing a mild build on my LBZ sometime in the next year with the help of my dad. I dont have all the answers but I can tell you that I will most likely be using Carrilo rods because they are the lightest and many people are running them without issues. If you put main studs in make sure you get it line honed with the studs. If you're going to run big twins I would say definately cut the pistons. How much you cut them depends on how far you want to push it. Me personally will probably be going for 15.5- 16.1 cr. Im going to run a big single and shoot for around 800hp
 

duramaxdiesel

Dmax Nut
Oct 23, 2008
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Montreal, Canada
Thanks for the info. The thing about the main studs and honing is spot on. I only recently heard of doing it though. I am leaning toward the Carillo rods but I'm curious about the Howards rods too. I think Trent is going with a set. As for compression, I wonder if 14:1 will be too low? I know that tuning will have a lot to do with it being that low too.

Nick
 

KEVINL

Well-known member
Jul 4, 2008
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I wouldn't go with 14 to 1 compression unless you only use it at the track

Probably would have to use ether to start it
 

TrentNell

Finally underway !!!!!
Jul 7, 2008
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slc tuah
Thanks for the info. The thing about the main studs and honing is spot on. I only recently heard of doing it though. I am leaning toward the Carillo rods but I'm curious about the Howards rods too. I think Trent is going with a set. As for compression, I wonder if 14:1 will be too low? I know that tuning will have a lot to do with it being that low too.

Nick

I would skip the Cryo treetment , I went with the Howards because they are the secound lightest rod , and I really like the wrist pin oiling feature they add . Compression I went 14:9-15.1 but this is a race only truck , I would have stayed around 15:5-16:1 if i planned on driving it more . I will know a little more when i start my motor how it acts at that compression ration especially without glow plugs or IAT heater . Pistons are still a crap shot , race only i would still choose forged , but due to cost I went with cutting my stock pistons . I would go with the 14mm headstud from Socal with the big boost your are planning on running , even though i went with the standard ARP's on my build and no main studs they are a good idea . Alot of times you have to look at the bugdet and choose the best you can for the money you have to spend . post up what you plan to spend and it will help alot more ?
 

TrentNell

Finally underway !!!!!
Jul 7, 2008
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slc tuah
Why would you get rid of the glow plugs

They are not a performance hindrance are they?

not really , just want to ditch all the wiring and everything if i can , keep the motor easy to work on and un cluttered , i am sure there will be plenty of wrenching needing to be done .

He's reducing as much wieght as possible. It all adds up. :thumb:
not much weight there Chris but ya , 100 pennies equal a dollar :D

Did the glow plugs work in those heads Chris ? just in case i find they are needed ? I just assumed because they were "seized " in there they didnt work ? not too worried about it just curious ........
 

blue68383

Shooting for 11s
May 15, 2008
105
0
16
CA
I would skip the Cryo treetment , I went with the Howards because they are the secound lightest rod , and I really like the wrist pin oiling feature they add .

I am sure you know this Trent but for anybody that doesnt you can get the carrillos with this feature also;)
 

doogie

On a Time Out
Nov 19, 2009
32
0
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St.Charles
I went with the Carrillo rods. 14mm is a real good idea I went with them they run about $735 from Socal. But then you have more mashine work to do. Going through the same kind of build now.
 

duramaxdiesel

Dmax Nut
Oct 23, 2008
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Thanks for the replies. So 14.1 not a good idea huh? Ok I guess I'll go to 15.5. Is there a specific reason why you would not bother with the cryo treatment Trent? I can have all my parts done for under $250. I think I'll go with the Carillo's. Also, are my ARP studs not up to the task of holding the heads down? My budget for the build is $10000. Remember, There won't be any labour costs involved really, other than any machine work. So that saves quite a bit.
 

TrentNell

Finally underway !!!!!
Jul 7, 2008
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slc tuah
Thanks for the replies. So 14.1 not a good idea huh? Ok I guess I'll go to 15.5. Is there a specific reason why you would not bother with the cryo treatment Trent? I can have all my parts done for under $250. I think I'll go with the Carillo's. Also, are my ARP studs not up to the task of holding the heads down? My budget for the build is $10000. Remember, There won't be any labour costs involved really, other than any machine work. So that saves quite a bit.

Cryo doesnt make anything stonger , just increases there service life , and from what we have seen so far long service life isnt even something to worry about on built motors , most pop them well before they are worn out . As far as studs its a maybe , I am using the standard ARP's but , a big set of compounds will push 90 psi of boost so if there is money left over a upgrade is probably smart , maybe even 0-ring the heads ? if i would have had 10k to spend i would have added a cam and some heads to my build also Cam at a minimum needs to be decided before the pistons are cut , because they will need to be relieved for the valves if you use a bigger cam .
 

duramaxdiesel

Dmax Nut
Oct 23, 2008
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Montreal, Canada
Wow that's some good info Trent. I didn't know about the cam needing to be done before deciding on pistons. Who do you recommend I get the cam from? Would it be wise to have the cam and pistons cut from the same person? I think a call to Guy is in order. I'd like to buy my rods, have the pistons cut and cam for the first week of Jan. I'm also going to have to get my truck back up here soon too. Will need a few parts off the motor.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
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Not all cams require valve reliefs in the piston. The one I got from Guy did, but he also has one that is very popular that doesn't. Your best bet is to talk to whoever it is you plan on getting your parts from and asking their advice.
 

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
10,390
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Thailand
Why would you get rid of the glow plugs

They are not a performance hindrance are they?


2 reasons to remove them besides wire and clutter would be:

1- if the tip breaks off ......your pulling apart the motor
2 - they could effect the spay pattern of the injector


personally i would put a plug in there so it doesnt fill with soot