HELP: Eliminating hard fuel lines

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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I put this in hard parts under LBZ, cuz thats what I'm working on...
If there's a better section please move the thread!
:)

So, I'm looking to change out the hard fuel lines and just go straight from my AD2 to the CP3 and I'd like to know if anyone's used one of the FASS kits to make this happen?

The kits come with various fittings and quite a bit of hose (length) and I'm wondering if in the kit there's fittings for:
1) to screw into the CP3 inlet that would eliminate the barbed fitting and make it a threaded to -AN

2) [id like to also] to screw into the sump to remove the screw/barbed fitting and go to a screw/-AN fitting

Here's a link to the kit(s)
http://www.fassride.com/shop/accessories/class-eight-fuel-line-kits.php

I've also been looking at Parker nitrile rubber hose to just make my own kit.
But I don't know what size and thread pitch the cp3 inlet is, size and thread pitch my sump outlet is and if it is possible to to the same (switch out to a thread in -AN out) swap at the fuel cooler so I can run my returns from an under hood fuel block the cooler.

Thanks for any insight y'all can provide-

Jason
 
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07metallicgreen

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Nov 24, 2011
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Smicksburg, PA
just get a 1/2" cp3 fitting and get a barbed splice. cut the factory quick connect off and splice it straight to the cp3. you would have to delete your factory fuel filter
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
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just get a 1/2" cp3 fitting and get a barbed splice. cut the factory quick connect off and splice it straight to the cp3. you would have to delete your factory fuel filter

Fuel filter is deleted, I have the 1/2" CP3 fitting already and I realize the "easy" thing to do would be to remove the quick disconnect and shove a hose over the hard line, but I don't want to hack the factory hard line, I'd rather replace it with something that would potentially have less bends that held a more consistent I.D that was also shorter in length and a more direct passageway from the AD2 to the CP3
 

07metallicgreen

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Nov 24, 2011
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Smicksburg, PA
I don't know if I made it clear. instead of using the hard line, cut the quick connect off the air dog line and splice it. don't use the hard line at all. just come straight up from lift pump, under the glow plug module to the cp3 with rubber hose. if that makes sense?? instead of going across the motor than back over just make a straight shot up to the cp3
 

ScreaminDuramax

New member
Sep 19, 2013
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Torrance
Hes got the right idea, The supply and return are right next to eachother. Sounds like the easiest way to go about it, oreilly and napa have the barbed connectors in stock.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
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I don't know if I made it clear. instead of using the hard line, cut the quick connect off the air dog line and splice it. don't use the hard line at all. just come straight up from lift pump, under the glow plug module to the cp3 with rubber hose. if that makes sense?? instead of going across the motor than back over just make a straight shot up to the cp3

A-ha, ok yeah that's more clear.
Yes this is what I'd like to do, with the exception of using press fit fittings instead of barbed, and I'm hoping to get a -8an or -10an fitting that will thread into the CP3 and make the connection at the CP3 a threaded connection instead of a barbed connection.

Then I'd also like to use a fuel distribution block that will allow me to do two things.

1) I'd like to run the ALL the return lines into it and exit in one -6 or -8 line off a threaded connection
And
2) I'd like the distribution block to have an extra input that I can run dual pumps into later...but it's recently come to my attention that I can drill and tap a new port at a later date if I need to

That's my goal anyways.
Theres reasons for me screwing around with it too..

1) I eliminated the factory fuel pressure port a while back and have had a minor leak since from the return line at the splice point
2) I also deleted the factory fuel filter and have never liked or been satisfied with just looping a hose from the hard line that went to the filter, to the CP3.
3) I just wanna clean up the under hood "look" a bit, I'm moving the GPM over to the firewall and the quick disconnect fittings and the crossover feed hard line and return lines look like shit to me, so I wanna just get rid of them...
 
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BLACKMAX1

WAY2EVL
Jul 10, 2013
555
6
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VA beach
The ATS cp3 kits come with NPT to AN fittings for the factory cp3 to theirs and the fuel rail. They use high pressure steel braided Teflon line, it's appears to be aviation grade 12,000psi burst or so. I've ran them higher at work and they held fine "the aeroquip lines that is". I've been meaning to call ATS but I'm sure I could find the fitting size on my own, I think their #6 and #8. So I eventually want to run braided lines from my lift pump to my cp3s and eliminate all of the hard lines on the motor and filter head. The new lines will Y coming into the engine bay pressure will have a T before the Y or only a cross to incorporate my fuel press sensor that is currently in the bleeder fitting in the factory filter head. I'm also going to make a braided line for my PPE high pressure line. I have not looked at the lift pump to see how to connect it there, or how the return line will route.
 

moparkxracer

Well-known member
Jun 25, 2010
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Fuel lines

I am running -12 into each lift pump from 2 separate sumps,I found the fittings that screw into the airdog and make lines -12. From the outlet of the lift pumps I'm running -10 line with a one way valve on each line to a distribution block I put my lift pressure sensor in that block. From that block to the cp3's I'm running the hose -10 hose, and reducing it to -6 to plumb into the cp3's. I found the an adaptors from summitracing. The second pick is my fuel return block. I removed all the stock steal blocks from the top of the engine. I should have it mounted this weekend... I hope this helped out some.
picture.php
picture.php
 

BLACKMAX1

WAY2EVL
Jul 10, 2013
555
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VA beach
Are the fuel blocks in both pictures of the same block? What are the barbed fittings for? Great set up defiantly helps put together some ideas.
 

moparkxracer

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Jun 25, 2010
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Blocks

The feed one has 5 holes ( 2 in 2 out and one for lift pressure gauge), the return one had 4. I drilled and tapped for the barbed fittings and for temp sensor, that fitting was a -10 o ring with and Allen head. The Allen part was tapered and fits the o ring nicely. The two small barb fittings are for the injector returns ( one per side of motor) and the bigger one is for the fuel rail return.
Are the fuel blocks in both pictures of the same block? What are the barbed fittings for? Great set up defiantly helps put together some ideas.
 

onebaddmaxxx

Active member
Feb 22, 2009
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Cecil County Md
in the puller, it has dual air dogs, separate 1/2" line up to the engine. in the last 12" from where each line connects to the cp3, there is an H in-between the two supply lines to equal them out. HSP said that having the balance hose in-between just ensures one pump doesn't starve and they each have the same flow not to fluctuate pressure between them. No issues here
 

moparkxracer

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Jun 25, 2010
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Yes, I agree

I just put mine under the truck, and put a one way valve one each. That way if one pump does take a crap on me the other just does not push fuel back through it back to the tank.

in the puller, it has dual air dogs, separate 1/2" line up to the engine. in the last 12" from where each line connects to the cp3, there is an H in-between the two supply lines to equal them out. HSP said that having the balance hose in-between just ensures one pump doesn't starve and they each have the same flow not to fluctuate pressure between them. No issues here
 

DPC

Member
Jan 2, 2012
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Adams, TN
Advantage?

BLUF: Does any of this have a HP advantage or it this just for cosmetic reasons?

The factory feed line is a 1/2 inch, are folks running out of fuel because of the fuel line size? I did some research on the fittings and lines and you can spend a ton of money on this if you choose. Thanks.
 

moparkxracer

Well-known member
Jun 25, 2010
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Bottom line up front: I didn't like how the factory stuff looked or how it tied in, so I changed it. Depending on what's done to overall setup I'm sure the factory 1/2 inch line will become a restrictor at some point. Maybe some of the high hp guys can chime in. I'm running 2 5/8 feed lines to under the hood.
 

moparkxracer

Well-known member
Jun 25, 2010
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Lines

Yes, abt 3 ft before the cp3's I stepped them down due to hose being so huge it won't fit in the area of the valley pump. I am asking for more air and fuel them most setups. Don't go off what I have done.

Hot Cocoal, I hope the text messages helped you out in getting the part numbers you where looking for, as for the other an fittings you'll have to figure that out when you start putting stuff together. You could and should be able to get away with way mess then what I have done. I have a large oil cooler, oil bypass valve and large fuel cooler I have to work around. Let me know if there is anything else I can help with.
One to each CP3?
 

NC-smokinlmm

<<<Future tuna killer
May 29, 2011
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I just ran a new piece of fuel line from my AD to the cp3. I left the factory stuff in place and used it as a mounting point for the new line, I just zipped tied it every 12" or so...
 

DMAXchris

It’s only temporary!
Apr 28, 2009
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Natrona Heights PA
BLUF: Does any of this have a HP advantage or it this just for cosmetic reasons?

The factory feed line is a 1/2 inch, are folks running out of fuel because of the fuel line size? I did some research on the fittings and lines and you can spend a ton of money on this if you choose. Thanks.

Guys have hit 1000hp with all the factory lines in place. I don't think it does a damn thing for power, just cleans stuff up on top of the motor.