Hello from Wisconsin

Bdsankey

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Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,165
1,274
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
Hello all, my name is Brad and I'm a mechanical engineer hailing from Wisconsin.

I own a 2005 LLY EC/SB, loaded, leather, sunroof. I am the second owner and picked it up with 312k miles for $5,000 all stock other than a predator programmer/intake/lift pump.

I grew up in my father's auto shop and progressed onto acquiring my Bachelor's degree in Mechanical Engineering.

About the Truck
The trans was rebuilt at 320k (approx) with stock shafts, SunCoast 1058, tcase brace ect and I was very pleased with the trucks new found power.

Mods: Round 1
Two summers ago (2016) a couple of injectors stuck open and it was deemed time for new injectors. My head gaskets were gone also creating the ticking time bomb it was @ 342k miles.

I built my own traction bars out of 2" OD x 1.5" ID A513 DOM tube, 3/8" brackets, and Ballistic Fab 2.63" joints front/rear.

At this time it got 60% overs from Exergy, an Exergy 10mm pump used from a friend, WCFab 3" bridge/cold side/hot side, and a Danville 68mm Stage 2R 4094. The truck dyno'd @ 671hp/1187tq in April 2017.

Mods: Round 2
Toward the end of Summer 2017 the truck started to idle weird and finally started showing signs of low compression. In order to fund my engine build I sold my rust free CC/SB 2002 LB7, leather/loaded and headed to the forums to see what was holding power and what wasn't.

I ended up on the below for the engine build:
-CP Carrillo Hybrid Kit (rods/pistons/rings/wrist pins)(saves 4lbs out of rotating assembly, has 0.202" longer rod)
-SunCoast billet flexplate (they ran a sale end of 2017 for $450 shipped)
-Wagler Stage 2AF Street Cam
-Wagler pushrods
-Comp Camps valve springs (almost identical to the SoCal springs, and they are lighter than SoCals with TI retainers)
-Fluidampr (I know, people say they break cranks but I feel they are not the cause)
-Melling M316 oil pump
-New GM oil cooler
-Coated main/cam/rod bearings
-ARP fasteners

This engine is going to be used as a hot street motor and for sled pulls. I would like to hit the strip but there isn't much of a bracket scene in my area.

I am going to feed it with a billet S476/87, throw a Goerend "J" converter in it, add a second 10mm pump, tubular 304SS exhaust manifolds/up-pipes and let it eat.





I look forward to sharing my build experience and engineering/mechanical experience with everyone!
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
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48
Granite Falls NC
Welcome. Sounds we got a newbie to the site that knows what he’s doing! I’d sell that 10mm and run a single 12mm pump. Saves some power and clutter
 

Bdsankey

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Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,165
1,274
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
Welcome. Sounds we got a newbie to the site that knows what he’s doing! I’d sell that 10mm and run a single 12mm pump. Saves some power and clutter

Going to be running 2x 10mm pumps. I got a screaming deal from Eric Merchant on the pump and I have less into my dual 10mms than I do a single 12mm.

Including my first 10mm (that I got used) I have about $2300 into the set.
 

Bdsankey

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Feb 1, 2018
4,165
1,274
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
Makes sense. I’d do the same if I got them that cheap.

Only way I will change is a 14mm stroker but I feel the 10mm pumps offer the best compromise between output and reliability for a street truck. Not that I'm going to be pounding the miles on a forged piston motor but its not going to be a trailer queen.

The best part about the entire truck is the cab corners are gone from rust, rockers gone, box paint is all chipped and has surface rust. Every pull I go to or every Corvette I line up next to things "Look at this POS, its going to be slow" and its the exact opposite.
 

Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,165
1,274
113
Larsen, Wisconsin
:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb: how close is the new engine to be running?

Still sitting in the truck, it gets stripped next weekend and dropped off @ the machine shop for bore (pistons require 4.075"), hone, bake and shot blast the block, balance rotating assy.

I don't think I will see any issues with the crank being on a single 76mm. I want to do a billet narrow throw but not in the cards this year, especially when a main hone is only $250 and coated main/rod bearings are ~$375 its not horrible to re-do next year.

The hybrid rod piston kit is what I am most interested in seeing the results. The 0.202" longer rod SHOULD theoretically make more tq and the weight savings (0.5lb/cyl or 4lb total) should help the crank live. I've got a friend with a very very similar motor going together except hes running standard carrillo rods, forged pistons (same bowl/relief as mine, similar compression). We may go to a dyno and have them tuned as close as possible fuel wise and swap turbos just to see if there is a noticeable difference.