LLY: headgasket replacement

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bigaland4gals

DZLGUY
Dec 26, 2014
23
0
0
Sup guys. I spent 12 hours getting my heads off. lots of rust and broken bolts and nubby nuts:mad:. Anyways I made a MAJOR rookie mistake on the passenger side taking the rocker arm off. I did not keep the valve bridges in order and they got all mixed up:eek: I did keep the drivers side in order. What can or should I do to get them in the right order? The number seven was fooked. some of the gasket ring got pounded into the head near the valves. The number 2 failed also, but no damage. So I guess I need to get the head shaved? I have c grade VR gaskets. Any other suggestion will be greatly welcomed. It appears the gasket failed on the ends with the large tab? why is that I wonder? truck has 170k.
 

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bigaland4gals

DZLGUY
Dec 26, 2014
23
0
0
dirtydmax said:
Fun job eh!how long was it leaking?
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Not 100% sure but It started the hard hose and puke and 5000 miles later I am finally getting this done.
Any suggestions or ideas? while I am this deep in. Have seen alot of go ahead and get the water pump.
 
dirtydmax

dirtydmax

<---up shit creek
Sep 1, 2013
1,091
4
38
46
muskoka,Ont Canada
Do it all while your in there. just did one last week and the pump jeaked after buttoning it up,talk about a piss off after all the time involved.Dont forget arp's if the funds are there.
 
NJ_LLY

NJ_LLY

Back in action
Nov 4, 2008
560
0
0
Browns Mills, NJ
Mine has 180 on it and I'm doing motor mounts, water pump, head studs, sand blasting g all of the brackets and painting them, LBZ cp3 and regulator, rebuilt heads with hamiltons, a 475/ stock, and since the motor is out I'm power washing and painting the frame and front end.
 
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bigaland4gals

DZLGUY
Dec 26, 2014
23
0
0
thunder550 said:
The valve bridges don't have to be in order AFAIK. You have to set valve lash either way, so it doesn't really matter.
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what a relief. Yeah I know I got to adjust the valves. (.011) is what I am reading from everyone. ARP's was a no brainer. :thumb: I am not sure about the torque specs though.:confused: DO I torque them down to 125f/lbs and then loosen. And do this 3 times? please help. Also since I am "in there" any recommendations on the CP3 fuel pump?:confused: I have already swallowed purchasing new injectors. the ones I took out looked like A$$! Having the turbo rebuilt and a WW2 installed with 360degree thrust bearing.
What are recommendations on prepping the block surface?
 
thunder550

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
16
38
Phoenix, AZ
ARP's recommendation (which is what I used) is to go to 125 once in 3 steps, using their assembly lube. I did 60/90/125. Only thing I would do differently if I were to do it over again is let it sit overnight after tightening, then check torque the next day, and if I got any additional turn out of the nut, wait a couple hours again and recheck, repeat until there's no additional turns out of any of the nuts.

Others will recommend the 3 time thing, but personally I think the MFGs recommendations are the best to go by.

For CP3, if you can find a decent deal on a LBZ or LMM FPR (should be able to find something for under $200), it might be worth swapping out so you can get 26k rail pressure instead of 23k, assuming you're dealing with a LLY. When I did mine I found a low mile LMM CP3 pump for $550 and just did the whole thing since I had 190k miles on the original, and I was chasing a surging issue that may have been related.

Block surface, I wet sanded with 400 grit and a sanding block. I have used Scotch Brite pads soaked with brake cleaner in the past also. Whatever you use, do it by hand, don't use any of the things that go on a power tool. It would probably be a good idea to pack the gap above the piston rings with grease to be sure that nothing gets in there. I didn't do it on mine (didn't think about it) but I would if I were to do it over again.
 
Evan@InglewoodTrans

Evan@InglewoodTrans

yerp
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 5, 2010
3,118
65
48
40
Western MA
thunder550 said:
ARP's recommendation (which is what I used) is to go to 125 once in 3 steps, using their assembly lube. I did 60/90/125. Only thing I would do differently if I were to do it over again is let it sit overnight after tightening, then check torque the next day, and if I got any additional turn out of the nut, wait a couple hours again and recheck, repeat until there's no additional turns out of any of the nuts.

Others will recommend the 3 time thing, but personally I think the MFGs recommendations are the best to go by.

For CP3, if you can find a decent deal on a LBZ or LMM FPR (should be able to find something for under $200), it might be worth swapping out so you can get 26k rail pressure instead of 23k, assuming you're dealing with a LLY. When I did mine I found a low mile LMM CP3 pump for $550 and just did the whole thing since I had 190k miles on the original, and I was chasing a surging issue that may have been related.

Block surface, I wet sanded with 400 grit and a sanding block. I have used Scotch Brite pads soaked with brake cleaner in the past also. Whatever you use, do it by hand, don't use any of the things that go on a power tool. It would probably be a good idea to pack the gap above the piston rings with grease to be sure that nothing gets in there. I didn't do it on mine (didn't think about it) but I would if I were to do it over again.
Click to expand...

Good post but you don't need a LBZ/LMM FPR to run over 23k pressure.
 
WVRigrat05

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
4
38
36
French Creek, West Virginia
thunder550 said:
ARP's recommendation (which is what I used) is to go to 125 once in 3 steps, using their assembly lube. I did 60/90/125. Only thing I would do differently if I were to do it over again is let it sit overnight after tightening, then check torque the next day, and if I got any additional turn out of the nut, wait a couple hours again and recheck, repeat until there's no additional turns out of any of the nuts.

Others will recommend the 3 time thing, but personally I think the MFGs recommendations are the best to go by.

For CP3, if you can find a decent deal on a LBZ or LMM FPR (should be able to find something for under $200), it might be worth swapping out so you can get 26k rail pressure instead of 23k, assuming you're dealing with a LLY. When I did mine I found a low mile LMM CP3 pump for $550 and just did the whole thing since I had 190k miles on the original, and I was chasing a surging issue that may have been related.

Block surface, I wet sanded with 400 grit and a sanding block. I have used Scotch Brite pads soaked with brake cleaner in the past also. Whatever you use, do it by hand, don't use any of the things that go on a power tool. It would probably be a good idea to pack the gap above the piston rings with grease to be sure that nothing gets in there. I didn't do it on mine (didn't think about it) but I would if I were to do it over again.
Click to expand...

I rechecked mine like 5 times and a lot of em moved just a hair each time. I kept going in sequence until I felt ok because I knew how mine was gonna get treated.
 
PureHybrid

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
3,477
463
83
Central OH
Cleaning block surfaces sucks, not that its hard, but I'm a tad OCD and I always feel something is never covered up good enough. I've never used a traditional scotchbrite pad, roloc pad, whatever. Only thing I've found I like, are the 3m bristle discs. They're not abrasive, but sure do clean. They won't strip hard stuff like carbon, but will buzz through gasket material. Being that the head gaskets are MLS you may not need to do much cleaning.
 

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duratothemax

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
7,139
10
0
Wyoming
Yep, if you got a lift, pulling the cab is the way to go.

Sometimes a PITA if you/your customer has a million wires/aftermarket crap going through the firewall though.
 
Yellow Jacket

Yellow Jacket

WannaBe Sled Puller
Feb 11, 2009
917
0
16
Waterloo, IA
duratothemax said:
Yep, if you got a lift, pulling the cab is the way to go.

Sometimes a PITA if you/your customer has a million wires/aftermarket crap going through the firewall though.
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Yeah, that's y I hate all the extra add on crap or shitty wiring people do...

I use the wire wheels on a 90* angle grinder or on 4" grinder if I pull the cab, cleans up surfice, more or less nonabrasive, and doesn't leave all the material or residue the 3m plastic things do from wearing down...
 
O

onebaddmaxxx

Active member
Feb 22, 2009
1,212
1
38
Cecil County Md
e971ab38699cb143db8a3d5a0cc0e41e.jpg


This is what I use
 
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