head gaskets and arp's

JRODS*LB7

New member
Feb 1, 2012
642
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44
SE Massachusetts
Possible and been done, however the stock turbo is seriously over boosting at this stage. It wont last long at that level (stress on the bearing surfaces and shaft). On the LB7 the regulator on the cp3 as well as the suction pump on the back of it will need modding to take full advantage of the pumps capabilities if there not already (regardless of lift pump capacity & capabilities which is need too if not already added).
Thanks a bunch for the info man i appreciate it!:hug:
 

Chad

Chad231
Nov 26, 2008
33
0
6
Santa Cruz California
So far on every head stud/gasket job that I've done on a DMax I can confidently say that the water pump had something to do with it. On every one the truck either came in the door with a nice new water pump on it, or we think we finally got one without the water pump being the cause and finish up and look for leaks only to find the water pump leaking. My theory is that guys run them with leaking water pumps long enough to run them low on coolant, air in the system collects at the rear of the passenger side, creates a hot spot and allows the coolant to boil and #7 cylinder is always the one to blow.

With small twins, big twins; small, medium, and large singles with 40 to 60+ PSI of boost and 600-800 rwhp we have broken pistons, bent rods, and broken rods all without ever blowing a stock head gasket with stock head bolts. IMO there is not a hp or boost number that the stock internals can handle that requires head studs. Furthermore to do a proper head stud/gasket job (without full engine teardown for torque plate honing and cleaning up the deck) means pulling the heads, having them flatness checked and/or milled, setting valve depth, having them pressure checked, and reinstalling with new gaskets and studs - this is the same process and same cost if you do it as a preventative or wait until it blows one (if it ever does).

This probably the single best, at least most concise, answer to this never ending debate I've read on any forum to date.
 

rcr1978

Active member
Apr 1, 2007
790
26
28
Spring Creek, NV
Well I have a 04 with only 69,000 no leaky water pump, coolant never got lower than the seam on the coolant bottle. And my head gaskets are toast so I'm thinking it's just bad luck for some to :D
 

cole30

New member
Sep 21, 2009
77
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0
I can honestly say now that ive done it is the most time consuming thing was lubeing and tourqing all the studs, check then re checking, and adjusting valves..

Did all the valves stay seated at .12 first time of torquing?
 

Noreaster

Active member
Jun 13, 2007
2,910
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36
42
Cape Cod,MA
My buddies 05 blew the gasket at #7
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scored the cylinder & nicked the piston up in a couple spots too
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Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
1,308
2
38
33
Hagerstown MD
trucks all done! never has ran smoother, no more coolant blowing outta the overflow! took 28 hours all said and done.:coolspot:

Slackers gonna slack! I had mine off in 5 and on in ~12..... But I had friends helping lol.
Good to hear yours turned out good, I had a valve not seating and had to pull the pass side head again. FML
 

dmax711

New member
Mar 4, 2011
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concord, north carolina
haha i took my time as it was my first time doing it. i cleaned EVERYTHING and relocated and re-routed a few things putting it back together. And that sucks man, i was holding my breath about my heads as well...
 

JDPlowboy

Member
Feb 6, 2011
624
0
16
34
Gets hot, can't keep coolant in it, runs rough, heater doesn't work... There is a number of symptoms that is why it's so hard sometimes to figure out If they are blown or not.


2011 Ferd F-teenthousand
 

dmax711

New member
Mar 4, 2011
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concord, north carolina
Gets hot, can't keep coolant in it, runs rough, heater doesn't work... There is a number of symptoms that is why it's so hard sometimes to figure out If they are blown or not.


2011 Ferd F-teenthousand

x2, uppeer coolant hose is hard from pressure in the coolant system..which blows coolant out the overflow