starting a couple day thrash fest to get the truck back to running at 100%. arp studs gm grade c gaskets. cant wait till its done
head gaskets and arp's
- Thread starter dmax711
- Start date
Wish I could say the same about adding studs to my motor....ran just like it did with bolts
he's running a bigger single i had twins on my truck for 20k 52psi no problems 615wrhp. depends on setup.
im trying to keep stock turbo and internals is 525rwhp possible to achieve? would it be fine without arp studs and headgaskt? My goal is to get into the 12's high that is
So far on every head stud/gasket job that I've done on a DMax I can confidently say that the water pump had something to do with it. On every one the truck either came in the door with a nice new water pump on it, or we think we finally got one without the water pump being the cause and finish up and look for leaks only to find the water pump leaking. My theory is that guys run them with leaking water pumps long enough to run them low on coolant, air in the system collects at the rear of the passenger side, creates a hot spot and allows the coolant to boil and #7 cylinder is always the one to blow.
With small twins, big twins; small, medium, and large singles with 40 to 60+ PSI of boost and 600-800 rwhp we have broken pistons, bent rods, and broken rods all without ever blowing a stock head gasket with stock head bolts. IMO there is not a hp or boost number that the stock internals can handle that requires head studs. Furthermore to do a proper head stud/gasket job (without full engine teardown for torque plate honing and cleaning up the deck) means pulling the heads, having them flatness checked and/or milled, setting valve depth, having them pressure checked, and reinstalling with new gaskets and studs - this is the same process and same cost if you do it as a preventative or wait until it blows one (if it ever does).
With small twins, big twins; small, medium, and large singles with 40 to 60+ PSI of boost and 600-800 rwhp we have broken pistons, bent rods, and broken rods all without ever blowing a stock head gasket with stock head bolts. IMO there is not a hp or boost number that the stock internals can handle that requires head studs. Furthermore to do a proper head stud/gasket job (without full engine teardown for torque plate honing and cleaning up the deck) means pulling the heads, having them flatness checked and/or milled, setting valve depth, having them pressure checked, and reinstalling with new gaskets and studs - this is the same process and same cost if you do it as a preventative or wait until it blows one (if it ever does).
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
Agreed with othrgrl. I've found many, many times that the rods were bent BEFORE the head gaskets were blown. I bent rods in a test at 575hp and 1170fpt. Some LB7 & LLY issues are different however. It takes pressure to get to HP no matter how the tuning is. It may play a small part, but in the end it is pressure to spin those sneakers to that power and higher. Make sure when pulling the heads to see if the piston is coming up ABOVE the deck at least .010-.012 before proceeding. Or do a compression check to see where your sitting (should be about 400psi). Most bent rod trucks (that will still run good even some times for years surprisingly) will be around 310-280psi or less. Be careful when going as far as possible unless your ready to deal with it. Also always remember,,,,,"A candle that burns twice as bright, burn twice as fast".
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
Possible and been done, however the stock turbo is seriously over boosting at this stage. It wont last long at that level (stress on the bearing surfaces and shaft). On the LB7 the regulator on the cp3 as well as the suction pump on the back of it will need modding to take full advantage of the pumps capabilities if there not already (regardless of lift pump capacity & capabilities which is need too if not already added).
ok lemmie clear some things up, The reason the studs and gaskets are going in is because the headgasket is blown and pushes coolant out the resivoir. anything over 10psi and she leaks. obv there is no point in using stock tty bolts as i WAS going to do a build but then this happened. So the plan is to do this to get the old gal back running at 100% and twin it all while slowly getting motor parts for a full build on the spare block i have. I plan on taking the stock internalled motor to its full limit to see what i can squeeze out of her!:woott:
And the heads will be checked, brand new water pump will also be installed upon re-assembly..before someone asks, yes its welded:thumb:
I think he means his pump gear is welded to waterpump shaft
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=38.651969,-92.781157
2011 Ferd F-teenthousand
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
Correct. I weld the shaft on both sides. This keeps the gear & impeller from spinning on the shaft at higher rpms and pressures.