A lot of info can be found in here if not I will post what's needed.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=97
Head Gasket Job
- Thread starter Belldiver
- Start date
A lot of info can be found in here if not I will post what's needed.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=97
OK, so I pulled the engine on Sunday and it's sitting on a stand and I've started tearing it down. The only hitch during that process was shearing off 2 of 3 bolts on the passenger side motor mount. Anybody have a good source for one of those if I can't drill/easy out the old studs?
I started tearing the engine down this morning. So far so good, but I have a few issues I have questions about.
1. I soaked just about every bolt on the engine down in PB blaster the night before, but still managed to break a few things. One of the glow plugs turned about one full turn then snapped off, leaving most of the threads in the head. The actual 'glow' plug pulled out, leaving the threads stuck.
2. Do i have to pull the turbo off to get the 'Y' between intake manifolds off? It was hell getting that bottom passenger inside nut off the stud. Not sure how I would get it back on for re-assembly. see next item...
3. Can you even get the 'Y' and intake manifolds off being that they are studded? Or do they not come off until you unbolt the heads?
4. On both left and right sets of injectors, I broke 2 of the little plastic fuel return line 'T's, leaving parts of them stuck in the injectors. WTF do I do about this? Can I disassemble the injectors to pry the pieces out? The buggers were stuck good. Not sure what to do here.
5. What good is the EGR? Should I sh*t can it? Seems like a lot of nonsense leaking crap all over the engine block and fouling sh*t up. What would the consequences be of blocking it all off? And what is involved with that?
6. What's the longevity of the Injector Fuel Pump? Since I'm here, should I replace it? Truck has ~108K miles. Seems like a real PITA to get to later on if it went out. I already have a new water pump I'll be installing when I re-assemble.
That's where I'm at right now. I should be pulling the heads tomorrow morning or by noon. I'll get them into a machine shop to get worked on after Xmas. Just have a few of the above mentioned quirks to work through.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Jim
I started tearing the engine down this morning. So far so good, but I have a few issues I have questions about.
1. I soaked just about every bolt on the engine down in PB blaster the night before, but still managed to break a few things. One of the glow plugs turned about one full turn then snapped off, leaving most of the threads in the head. The actual 'glow' plug pulled out, leaving the threads stuck.
2. Do i have to pull the turbo off to get the 'Y' between intake manifolds off? It was hell getting that bottom passenger inside nut off the stud. Not sure how I would get it back on for re-assembly. see next item...
3. Can you even get the 'Y' and intake manifolds off being that they are studded? Or do they not come off until you unbolt the heads?
4. On both left and right sets of injectors, I broke 2 of the little plastic fuel return line 'T's, leaving parts of them stuck in the injectors. WTF do I do about this? Can I disassemble the injectors to pry the pieces out? The buggers were stuck good. Not sure what to do here.
5. What good is the EGR? Should I sh*t can it? Seems like a lot of nonsense leaking crap all over the engine block and fouling sh*t up. What would the consequences be of blocking it all off? And what is involved with that?
6. What's the longevity of the Injector Fuel Pump? Since I'm here, should I replace it? Truck has ~108K miles. Seems like a real PITA to get to later on if it went out. I already have a new water pump I'll be installing when I re-assemble.
That's where I'm at right now. I should be pulling the heads tomorrow morning or by noon. I'll get them into a machine shop to get worked on after Xmas. Just have a few of the above mentioned quirks to work through.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Jim
HG;s
OK, so I pulled the engine on Sunday and it's sitting on a stand and I've started tearing it down. The only hitch during that process was shearing off 2 of 3 bolts on the passenger side motor mount. Anybody have a good source for one of those if I can't drill/easy out the old studs?
I started tearing the engine down this morning. So far so good, but I have a few issues I have questions about.
1. I soaked just about every bolt on the engine down in PB blaster the night before, but still managed to break a few things. One of the glow plugs turned about one full turn then snapped off, leaving most of the threads in the head. The actual 'glow' plug pulled out, leaving the threads stuck.
Tore my LLY down at 90k broke no bolts or Glow plugs that would suck. I'd say an easy out for that glow plug since you have a hole in it for one already. Probly gonna have to drill and easy out the motor mount bolts too, unless someone else has an easier way.
2. Do i have to pull the turbo off to get the 'Y' between intake manifolds off? It was hell getting that bottom passenger inside nut off the stud. Not sure how I would get it back on for re-assembly. see next item... No, you dont have to pull the turbo off, Just do some bending on the coolant return line, but if the motor is out it wouldn't take much to pull it off, just be sure to clean the surfaces for the oil feed and drain lines and get new gaskets if you do. I used grease to hold the little nut in my socket and a long 1/4" drive extension during re-assembly, some use tape and other things,,
3. Can you even get the 'Y' and intake manifolds off being that they are studded? Or do they not come off until you unbolt the heads?
Pull the y-bridge first and then the intake runners next, they have high temp grey sealant that holds them on so be careful prying them off so you don't scar the face of them or bend them.
4. On both left and right sets of injectors, I broke 2 of the little plastic fuel return line 'T's, leaving parts of them stuck in the injectors. WTF do I do about this? Can I disassemble the injectors to pry the pieces out? The buggers were stuck good. Not sure what to do here. Dont disassemble the injectors, turn them upside down so the plastic falls out and carefully pry it out or break it out, watch not to booger up the injector.
5. What good is the EGR? Should I sh*t can it? Seems like a lot of nonsense leaking crap all over the engine block and fouling sh*t up. What would the consequences be of blocking it all off? And what is involved with that?
I would delete it altogether, few nice kits out there, You can block it, its cheaper, but its still there.
6. What's the longevity of the Injector Fuel Pump? Since I'm here, should I replace it? Truck has ~108K miles. Seems like a real PITA to get to later on if it went out. I already have a new water pump I'll be installing when I re-assemble.
The cp3 injection pump( duramaxs don't come with a fuel pump in the tank from the factory, the cp3 pulls and feeds fuel at the same time, putting an extra load on it) A lift pump, and good filtration and additives guarantees the most life out of one along with the injectors.
OK, so I pulled the engine on Sunday and it's sitting on a stand and I've started tearing it down. The only hitch during that process was shearing off 2 of 3 bolts on the passenger side motor mount. Anybody have a good source for one of those if I can't drill/easy out the old studs?
I started tearing the engine down this morning. So far so good, but I have a few issues I have questions about.
1. I soaked just about every bolt on the engine down in PB blaster the night before, but still managed to break a few things. One of the glow plugs turned about one full turn then snapped off, leaving most of the threads in the head. The actual 'glow' plug pulled out, leaving the threads stuck.
Tore my LLY down at 90k broke no bolts or Glow plugs that would suck. I'd say an easy out for that glow plug since you have a hole in it for one already. Probly gonna have to drill and easy out the motor mount bolts too, unless someone else has an easier way.
2. Do i have to pull the turbo off to get the 'Y' between intake manifolds off? It was hell getting that bottom passenger inside nut off the stud. Not sure how I would get it back on for re-assembly. see next item... No, you dont have to pull the turbo off, Just do some bending on the coolant return line, but if the motor is out it wouldn't take much to pull it off, just be sure to clean the surfaces for the oil feed and drain lines and get new gaskets if you do. I used grease to hold the little nut in my socket and a long 1/4" drive extension during re-assembly, some use tape and other things,,
3. Can you even get the 'Y' and intake manifolds off being that they are studded? Or do they not come off until you unbolt the heads?
Pull the y-bridge first and then the intake runners next, they have high temp grey sealant that holds them on so be careful prying them off so you don't scar the face of them or bend them.
4. On both left and right sets of injectors, I broke 2 of the little plastic fuel return line 'T's, leaving parts of them stuck in the injectors. WTF do I do about this? Can I disassemble the injectors to pry the pieces out? The buggers were stuck good. Not sure what to do here. Dont disassemble the injectors, turn them upside down so the plastic falls out and carefully pry it out or break it out, watch not to booger up the injector.
5. What good is the EGR? Should I sh*t can it? Seems like a lot of nonsense leaking crap all over the engine block and fouling sh*t up. What would the consequences be of blocking it all off? And what is involved with that?
I would delete it altogether, few nice kits out there, You can block it, its cheaper, but its still there.
6. What's the longevity of the Injector Fuel Pump? Since I'm here, should I replace it? Truck has ~108K miles. Seems like a real PITA to get to later on if it went out. I already have a new water pump I'll be installing when I re-assemble.
The cp3 injection pump( duramaxs don't come with a fuel pump in the tank from the factory, the cp3 pulls and feeds fuel at the same time, putting an extra load on it) A lift pump, and good filtration and additives guarantees the most life out of one along with the injectors.
I have had a few of those motor mount bolts break. Put some heat on the mount to burn the lock tight out and they usually come out easy.some new bolts and should be good to go. Also if you want to remove the intake runners wile the heads are on the cp3 has to come out.
The broken motor mount bolts and glow plug are what they are. I'll deal with them.
I'm a little concerned about prying the brittle plastic pieces of those fuel return line nipples out of the injectors and where to find a replacement set since both sides are junk now.
I'm not sure how I get that 'Y' bridge out before the intakes or heads? The bottom (4) connectors are studs, not bolts. I guess just double nut and pull the studs? I'll definitely have to pull the turbo to do that.
I see these EGR delete kits online for $700??? Holy sh*t! This is just some welded up tubing and block off plates right? What about that big round sensor on the right side of the tube? Any real ramifications for emissions testing? Cold or hot weather performance? I have mig/tig available and a mill and lathe. What would be required to make a kit yourself? I'll look at the PCV reroute too.
Still not sure if I should do anything with the CP3 fuel injector pump. It was working fine and this is just a stock motor.
Thanks again,
Jim
I'm a little concerned about prying the brittle plastic pieces of those fuel return line nipples out of the injectors and where to find a replacement set since both sides are junk now.
I'm not sure how I get that 'Y' bridge out before the intakes or heads? The bottom (4) connectors are studs, not bolts. I guess just double nut and pull the studs? I'll definitely have to pull the turbo to do that.
I see these EGR delete kits online for $700??? Holy sh*t! This is just some welded up tubing and block off plates right? What about that big round sensor on the right side of the tube? Any real ramifications for emissions testing? Cold or hot weather performance? I have mig/tig available and a mill and lathe. What would be required to make a kit yourself? I'll look at the PCV reroute too.
Still not sure if I should do anything with the CP3 fuel injector pump. It was working fine and this is just a stock motor.
Thanks again,
Jim
It's easier to pull the heads with the intake runners still on. I'd leave the cp3 alone if the truck ran fine and never threw low rail codes. The bottom bolt holes on the y-bridge are slotted so no need to pull any studs. Just take the 8 nuts and bolts off and it'll come loose. Like others said a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm, swivel and long extension ase your friend. Turbo can stay but you may have to bend a line or 2 slightly to weasel the y out. Not a big deal though. The broken return T's should be readily available at your dealer. Other than holding the injector upside down and using a small pick to work it out I have no tricks
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Ahh, great information thanks. That clears it up. 'Y' out, then leave the intake runners and pull the heads.
And I did end up using every 1/4" extension I own to get to those lower back nuts.
I found the replacement injector return lines at a place called Huckstorf Diesel for a reasonable (relative) price. Just gotta get those little tips outa the injectors. I'll figure it out.
Thanks,
Jim
Yeah I forgot to mention that, I left the intake runners on and the manifolds when I pulled the heads the first time. It's easier to pull the pass. side manifold before pulling the head or you have to weasel it around the dip stick tube, or pull the dipstick tube.
I use this kit for the return lines off the injectors no one liked the price from Gm. Use a small pick to get the piece out there held in with a o ring seal.
The kit can be used in place of GM kits 97328733 and 98062291. The GM kits are specific to either the right or left side of the engine while the kit can be used with the injectors on either side.
The kits includes the return adapters and o-rings, adapter retaining clips, and a length of return line hose sufficient for either engine side.
You will need a finger stick to kill the codes or get your father in law Efi live for which ever you do.
The Egr delete kits you have higher cost kits in the 700.00 that come with a new high flow bridge and new intercooler pipe. Your not going to make this bridge that easy at home without a lot of testing and tearing the truck back apart.
The. There is other Egr delete we do for 280 shipped with a blocker cap for the riser this is the most common.
On the heads since there going to the machine shop leave the glow plug fix to them. Be a simple fix for them to do no reason to take a chance on it with them already going there.
Your kit has the seals for the turbo so would remove and clean up area. Take your time it's not a race that's how stuff gets broke. The intake manifold can come off with the cp3 in place also work around the sealer to break seal if pryied on to hard they will crack.
Use a hand wrench for this front bolt.
Also do not loose the bridge parts
In this pic there is a location pin in the block that holds the head gasket and lines up the head to the block. Guys loose these by not pulling them out of the heads and blocks before sending them to the machine shop. There hard to find from GM never the right part number. So check your heads and block you will have a total of 4 2 from each side.
Under the injector hold downs is a black tab make sure there not in the head also when going to machine shop.
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Great set of pics of that engine going back together! Where are those return line kits listed? COTN?
I got the heads off about two hours ago, no problems. Didn't break any exhaust bolt or studs, but I'll probably replace them anyways. Heads pulled right off after unbolting. Gaskets barely stuck at all. I took a quick peek at the heads but no detailed inspection. Overall still fairly clean. I can't see on the gaskets exactly where the leak must have been, but I've not always seen an obvious leak in other HG jobs I've done either. I'll take a closer look when I get back to it on Thursday. It's all gonna sit on the bench for tonight and tomorrow.
I will probably pull that Turbo just so I can clean things up. Block is a mess right now.
The cylinder walls and piston tops look OK. Not much of any ridge or heavy carbon build up.
I think I'll probably just clean up the EGR and put it back together. If it were my own truck I'd delete it, but don't want to cause problems for the father in-law later down the road if the truck has to be inspected somewhere. He won't know how to deal with it.
The pipe between the T-Stat housing and waterpump looks really rusty. I'm going to clean it up, might replace that if it's pitted too deep.
What's the pipe coming from the waterpump back under the driver side exhaust manifold, by the oil filter? Anything need to be done or inspected with that?
Thanks for all the help fellas!
Jim
I got the heads off about two hours ago, no problems. Didn't break any exhaust bolt or studs, but I'll probably replace them anyways. Heads pulled right off after unbolting. Gaskets barely stuck at all. I took a quick peek at the heads but no detailed inspection. Overall still fairly clean. I can't see on the gaskets exactly where the leak must have been, but I've not always seen an obvious leak in other HG jobs I've done either. I'll take a closer look when I get back to it on Thursday. It's all gonna sit on the bench for tonight and tomorrow.
I will probably pull that Turbo just so I can clean things up. Block is a mess right now.
The cylinder walls and piston tops look OK. Not much of any ridge or heavy carbon build up.
I think I'll probably just clean up the EGR and put it back together. If it were my own truck I'd delete it, but don't want to cause problems for the father in-law later down the road if the truck has to be inspected somewhere. He won't know how to deal with it.
The pipe between the T-Stat housing and waterpump looks really rusty. I'm going to clean it up, might replace that if it's pitted too deep.
What's the pipe coming from the waterpump back under the driver side exhaust manifold, by the oil filter? Anything need to be done or inspected with that?
Thanks for all the help fellas!
Jim
Thought wife had them added. Will get those on the site and send you a link with your price. And the exhaust bolts clean those and reuse no real reason dropping 100+ on something not needed.
This pipe is pretty thick should be surface rust.
Coolant pipe from the water pump to oil cooler.
This pipe is pretty thick should be surface rust.
Coolant pipe from the water pump to oil cooler.
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Ok, another noob question here. What's the pipe that runs from the water pump, under the driver side exhaust manifold, to the block where the oil filter is mounted? Oil cooler of some sort? Anything I should remove since I have everything torn down and inspect or clean out?
That is the one I posted above. Your gasket kit and water pump came with the new gasket for the front side.
Coolant pipe from the water pump to oil cooler.
The oil cooler is not serviceable the seal will not go back into place. Unless the cooler is leaking no reason to mess with it.
So, first head is cleaned up and de-greased. Looks to be in very good condition and is laser beam straight from all angles. I'm thinking about just lapping the valves by hand and replacing the oil seals, polishing the surfaces and bolting'er back up. I'll clean the other head up in the morning and make sure it's in the same good condition. If so, I may skip the machine shop and valve grind.
On a slightly disturbing note, I never did find an obvious blown cylinder ring on either gasket. I've had the same in previous HG jobs. Was just hoping for the obvious defect. Must have still been a small leak past the ring.
On a slightly disturbing note, I never did find an obvious blown cylinder ring on either gasket. I've had the same in previous HG jobs. Was just hoping for the obvious defect. Must have still been a small leak past the ring.