Tony Burkhard
Allseason Diesel Per.
Here is a pic of most of the kit, there is two fittings missing in the picture yet and i might make a bracket for the pump yet.
Has anyone destroyed....
- Thread starter RKTMech
- Start date
that block-off plate, that's the one for the top of the stock pump cover correct? shouldn't there be two, one for the cover and one for the bottom of the thermostat housing to eliminate the bypass pipe all together?
Tony Burkhard
Allseason Diesel Per.
You will get hot spots in the motor and most likely overheat if you block off the bypass. Thats why i have built a new bypass tube.
Good Info, i was running an electric pump last year, but losing a lot of pressure with an 18-20lbs cap, it would spew out the over flow tube. Going to run 1 160 thermostat this year, and a 30lbs+ cap to see if that helps.
so I guess Im either tired or dumb or both, but what's the block off plate for if you still run a bypass tube from the thermo housing to the stock pump cover?
hmmmm . is the bypass the tube the one like Tim is saying the tube that goes from bottom of thermostat housing to the top of oem waterpump and has a tee off it that goes to the turbo?
mine is blocked off . the tee has been blocked back when i installed the s300 and didn't need it and also the tee part that went to turbo from metal part of upper rad hose .
this is the write up Dustin did in another thread . I followed his directions . I hope this doesnt cause hot spots , let me know what you guys think .
"Took a broken water pump that the gear had spun off of, pulled the seal, pulled the snap ring, punched the shaft and bearing out, punched the seal out of the impellor side. That left me with just the aluminum bearing housing part - I took it to Car Quest and picked up a tap in freeze plug to fit each side - if anything get one that is slightly too big and then ream the hole to fit the plug. I used green lok-tite since it won't let go under 400*, they were tight enough I scrapped the RTV idea, as it wasn't needed. The last place to plug is the bypass (top) port on the water pump housing - again freeze plug and green lok-tite. Now bolt the bearing housing into the water pump housing as you normally would and install the "dumby pump" as you normally would - it is now just an adapter. Next choose your mounting location for the water pump - I did mine very similar to Simon's. There is a T-fitting where the return from the heater core ties into the lower radiator hose - I cut the heater hose off and plugged that side of the T. I mounted up the pump and cut the driver's side of the lower radiator hose off to length and clamped it onto the outlet of the pump - there should no longer be any functioning T fittings between the pump and motor. On the passenger side of the lower radiator hose you need to add a T-fitting to tie that heater hose back in. I used the part that comes in an AirDog lift pump's kit to return fuel to the tank - I put it in the straight section that goes upwards. Hook the passenger side up to the inlet of the pump and wire the pump in and you are done.
The plug you put in the water pump housing deleted the factory bypass circuit, but you use the heater circuit as a bypass circuit. "
"Took a broken water pump that the gear had spun off of, pulled the seal, pulled the snap ring, punched the shaft and bearing out, punched the seal out of the impellor side. That left me with just the aluminum bearing housing part - I took it to Car Quest and picked up a tap in freeze plug to fit each side - if anything get one that is slightly too big and then ream the hole to fit the plug. I used green lok-tite since it won't let go under 400*, they were tight enough I scrapped the RTV idea, as it wasn't needed. The last place to plug is the bypass (top) port on the water pump housing - again freeze plug and green lok-tite. Now bolt the bearing housing into the water pump housing as you normally would and install the "dumby pump" as you normally would - it is now just an adapter. Next choose your mounting location for the water pump - I did mine very similar to Simon's. There is a T-fitting where the return from the heater core ties into the lower radiator hose - I cut the heater hose off and plugged that side of the T. I mounted up the pump and cut the driver's side of the lower radiator hose off to length and clamped it onto the outlet of the pump - there should no longer be any functioning T fittings between the pump and motor. On the passenger side of the lower radiator hose you need to add a T-fitting to tie that heater hose back in. I used the part that comes in an AirDog lift pump's kit to return fuel to the tank - I put it in the straight section that goes upwards. Hook the passenger side up to the inlet of the pump and wire the pump in and you are done.
The plug you put in the water pump housing deleted the factory bypass circuit, but you use the heater circuit as a bypass circuit. "
Tony Burkhard
Allseason Diesel Per.
The by-pass tube is designed to be plumbed in before the water pump to keep the coolant circulating within the motor even when the t-stats are closed. So when you remove the mechanical pump and install an electric pump you need to plumb the bypass back in the lower hose before the electric pump and thats what my kit does. When the t-stats open up it closes off the by-pass and you have full circulation through the radiator. Only time i would block off the by-pass is if i didnt have t-stats. Having a bypass working helps minimize hot spots and overheating. using the heater hose would also work as a by-pass but does not give you 100% circulation to the radiator when the t-stats are wide open.
oooo, roger, i get it now. thanks Tony. have you played with different caps and tstats yet like Rob has by any chance?
The by-pass tube is designed to be plumbed in before the water pump to keep the coolant circulating within the motor even when the t-stats are closed. So when you remove the mechanical pump and install an electric pump you need to plumb the bypass back in the lower hose before the electric pump and thats what my kit does. When the t-stats open up it closes off the by-pass and you have full circulation through the radiator. Only time i would block off the by-pass is if i didnt have t-stats. Having a bypass working helps minimize hot spots and overheating. using the heater hose would also work as a by-pass but does not give you 100% circulation to the radiator when the t-stats are wide open.[/QUOTE}]
I wasnt sure if i should of done that. So i did to keep things the same.
Dustin did his a lil different than mine.
Because i dont have a water cooled turbo,I tapped the outlet on the water crossover pipe that normally is used for the turbo coolant to a 1/2" NPT and ran a hose before the pump.
The pipe going from the pump to the water crossover was still in place just filled by my welder ( basically blocked off )
Like you said you do, My setup was just like stock ( only modded for the electric )
This year....Ive welded the front cover closed, and run a full custom setup
how are you circulating fluid upstream the pump, When T-Stats are closed?
What about people with water cooled turbos?
Pat, did a lot of testing with different T-Stats
Quite a few people run them with great results!
Yes, I found that the factory t-stats have a long delay before they react to heat.
So I located t-stats that fit our trucks that open in a fraction of the time that the stockers do.
So I located t-stats that fit our trucks that open in a fraction of the time that the stockers do.
I bought some from him and gave them to a local guy to try out. Because I was going electric, I figured I wouldnt need to bother. Now hearing rob's story, I think Ill be following suit with him.
From my personel experiance, Electric pump will not circ as good on the big end, However on the low end its way better!
I love those T-stats from Pat,They work great and give a good cushion.
Electric is one less worry as ve replaced sooo many water pumps and seen the damge they do when they go.
Also circing while the truck is off........pricelesss!
Yes, they do cool well. Last year i just drilled holes in my stock thermostats to keep coolant flowing even when they were closed, everything seemed to work ok, except for the coolant spewing out at the end of the track, i figure thats where ill need to put the better cap on. I dont run an overlfow tank either.
What do you use to fill your rad if you don't have an overflow tank? If you have a different style rad, I would just leave the coolant lever down about 3" or so to allow for expansion