Has anyone destroyed....
- Thread starter RKTMech
- Start date
i believe Travis has tried a few things on an lb7 pump, same with Dustin. Craig tried welding and/or pinning and it didnt hold up. dustin and craig both went electric. I decided not to deal with it and so i went electric right away.
Mine was/is tig welded front and back and so far so good... If it does fail I am not messing around with it, electric pump will be the replacement...
All right lets narrow it a bit, Street use Trucks, with power adders..... intended purpose use! I know in a 10 to 1 factor LBZ/LMM pumps last longer than all others as far as leaking goes (my experience) and I dont think anyone is running an electric on the street (but i will probably find out i'm wrong there too) and working their truck.
Just my opinion...
The truth about electric pumps is that they have a shorter lifespan than OEM pumps. It's just the nature of the beast. Electric motors eventually wear out when they are continuous duty in a hot environment.
I'm not a big fan of them for street apps. People do it, but they tend to be Saturday cars.
Also, there is not an electric motor made that fits under your hood that can put out the flow of mechanicals. It's a HP thingy. A 70 amp electric motor is only 1 HP of pumping power. Can this be significant when towing heavy? Not sure I'd take the risk personally.
It's a hotly debated subject with land speed racers (gas), and most avoid electric pumps since they stay into the throttle for long periods.
The truth about electric pumps is that they have a shorter lifespan than OEM pumps. It's just the nature of the beast. Electric motors eventually wear out when they are continuous duty in a hot environment.
I'm not a big fan of them for street apps. People do it, but they tend to be Saturday cars.
Also, there is not an electric motor made that fits under your hood that can put out the flow of mechanicals. It's a HP thingy. A 70 amp electric motor is only 1 HP of pumping power. Can this be significant when towing heavy? Not sure I'd take the risk personally.
It's a hotly debated subject with land speed racers (gas), and most avoid electric pumps since they stay into the throttle for long periods.
pat, you can tow heavy with no water pump by just unscrewing the overflow cap and adding coolant/water periodically and not overheat...it has been done.
Funny, when the water pump failed at Arizona, Casper didn't even make to the 1000 foot line before it passed 250 deg.
yeah i dont see anyone with out a water pump towing anything here in az and keeping the temp under control. i wouldnt even do it with the truck by its self.
Not for long. 
I dumped all the coolant pretty quick.
When coolant boils, it forcefully evacuates.
I dumped all the coolant pretty quick.When coolant boils, it forcefully evacuates.
Without pressure in the system, and pressure from the pump, steam bubbles expand rapidly. Even when the T-stat temp or block temp says OK, you can have steam pockets in the heads. Without pressure, the steam pockets can be large. This means there are areas with no coolant touching them. And this is the #1 argument for mech pumps. They develop pressure because of how powerful they are. Electric pumps cannot pressurize the block/heads by themselves. IIRC, most the racers like about 45PSI pressure in the block, which reduces bubble size to 1/4.
I know on my truck I have installed an electric pump . up until october of last year ( different issue) I drove it daily some 90 deg days on the street and a few times at the track with no issues . I know 90 degrees is nothing compared to some places and i have not towed with this setup , but all seems to be well so far .
my truck weighs 6920 race and ran 121 mph , according to duramax math about 800rwhp
my truck weighs 6920 race and ran 121 mph , according to duramax math about 800rwhp
Nicest thing about electric is circulating when the truck is off....That and not replacing a stocker
I run a single taurus,the S/W pump,McRat T-stats and straight water with a bottle of DEI additive and do have a ECT spike at the end of the 1/4 but it reduces fast!
I do agree with pat about the bubbles....The additive is SUPPOSE to help? But i have no proof.
I run a single taurus,the S/W pump,McRat T-stats and straight water with a bottle of DEI additive and do have a ECT spike at the end of the 1/4 but it reduces fast!
I do agree with pat about the bubbles....The additive is SUPPOSE to help? But i have no proof.
When you did this where you reading the temp at the ECT sensor or the actual water temp?
Reason I say this is because if the water boils you have a FALSE reading at the ECT sensor due to air being trapped in the T-stat housing.
Removing the cap does not remove all the air in the coolant system.
Not sure why you think this is OK to do? But i wouldnt do it!
I didn't do it, it was reported on this forum about a year ago or more by dustin when he went through several stock pumps and he had to tow from Mississippi or somewhere back to NC...not a flat drive by any means.
Don't be sorry Simon. The only reason I stated what I did was because it was being made out to seem like when a pump fails on the street you blow a motor. That simply isn't true. Dusting is just one example of it.
I had a lot of issues with my coolant system when i first built my motor.
Since you have a electric water pump, Kill the power to it and tell me what it does.
I know and have seen personally that the water will circ,However it has to rise alot to do this. Im willing to bet if Dustin would have opened the bleed on the T-Stat housing his temp would of been thru the roof!
I only say this because its what ive seen. Now i am not saying it will do damage as im surprised at the abuse that the heads will take,But I wouldnt recomend doing this.
This is just what ive seen myself sooooooo take it FWIW
