Hi guys. I have an 06 lbz leveled on 33’s. Lately I’ve noticed that the handling on this truck is terrible. I recently replaced the idler and pitman arms and tie rods. Now the truck feels like it has more body roll in the corners and kind of wanders on the highway. I’ve had 2 places do an alignment since the work was done, thinking that was the cause of the wandering. When cornering the rear seams like something is wrong, but I can’t find anything.
LBZ: Handling
- Thread starter Jon7891
- Start date
What would the symptoms be or a bad shock or a weak spring? Truck also seems to squat more when pulling.
I wish I could post the specs, but I can’t find the paper. I think I might have thrown it out when I cleaned my truck. I do remember that the camber on the right front was a little out of spec. The guy said that he couldn’t get it right.
Not being able to align it correctly is a problem.. how high is the front end cranked above stock? Other then that I would put some shocks on they dont last very long on these trucks.
There’s roughly 3/8 of thread left on the bolts. I was thinking shocks as well or maybe a broken leaf. It’s got 147k on it so I feel as though the tie is coming for suspension parts to be replaced soon
I would check tire pressure, wheel bearings, along with alignment. Check that your rear axle is square to the frame.
Incorrect toe can cause bad handling and Wondering on the highway. I've had good luck with about 1/8 toe in, 0* camber and maybe a few degrees positive (angled towards the cab) caster otherwise 0* if you can't get it right.
Check for play in all of the ball joints and steering components. Jack the front end off the ground and see if you can wiggle anything. Should be tight and take firm pressure to move
Oh, and one last thing as mentioned by gmduramax. It may be your tune :roflmao:
Incorrect toe can cause bad handling and Wondering on the highway. I've had good luck with about 1/8 toe in, 0* camber and maybe a few degrees positive (angled towards the cab) caster otherwise 0* if you can't get it right.
Check for play in all of the ball joints and steering components. Jack the front end off the ground and see if you can wiggle anything. Should be tight and take firm pressure to move
Oh, and one last thing as mentioned by gmduramax. It may be your tune :roflmao:
It was just what's worked for mine. The three I've done.
I wasn't too sure / couldn't remember the caster degrees. I thought I ran 0* once and later set it positive and couldn't tell any difference
Had some inside tire wear if I set camber anything from 0*. I guess -0.5* should work too as its not too far off from 0*
My understanding is the toe out is for handling, improves cornering, etc since it helps with the inside tire tracking the tighter turn vs the outside. Toe in would help with straight line driving with normal turns/city etc.
Correct me if I'm wrong as I have no formal education on this. Just what I've studied and tried on my own vehicles
I wasn't too sure / couldn't remember the caster degrees. I thought I ran 0* once and later set it positive and couldn't tell any difference
Had some inside tire wear if I set camber anything from 0*. I guess -0.5* should work too as its not too far off from 0*
My understanding is the toe out is for handling, improves cornering, etc since it helps with the inside tire tracking the tighter turn vs the outside. Toe in would help with straight line driving with normal turns/city etc.
Correct me if I'm wrong as I have no formal education on this. Just what I've studied and tried on my own vehicles
Have you changed anything body wise to the truck? I installed one of those trailer hitch cargo haulers that fold up and the handling was horrible with that thing back there.
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Positive caster will help keep the tires straight going high speed (stability) and will increase camber gain as the suspension is compressed. For a regular vehicle 0 camber is good but rarely anyone will get it 0 they usually set it +. So I’d rather it be in the negative if it only is -.01. You are correct about toe in but usually only set it in on the rear of cars (race cars). And with the amount you have you will significantly increase tire wear.
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I haven’t changed anything about the truck. Air pressure is fine in all the tires. The only thing that has changed is when the wheels are perfectly straight the steering wheel is a few degrees off, but I’m thinking I did that When I changed the pitman arm
Personally I would take it to someone I know or at least a reputable shop and if the alignment isn’t right have them figure out why they cant get it right. No point in paying for an alignment if somethings not straight when their done.
Every time I change pitman arms it throws the alignment of the steering wheel off. It seems they broach the splines by hand, since every one I get is off a couple degrees from the prior one. Of course, those were all cheap O'Reilly "lifetime warranty" parts, which is why I went through so many. Finally ponied up for a new GM part and haven't eaten one in 5+ years.
I have found the quality of alignment makes all the difference in the world on these trucks. Set it all to whatever specs the alignment machine says is "right" and it drives like ass. Finally found a shop an hour from my home town that does the alignment to his own specs, and it drives like a dream. He tells me every time what he does different than OE recommendations, but I forget what it is, because I now only get an alignment when I get new tires or break a steering box, so every 3-4 years. Hmm, about due for another steering box I think...
The point of that story is ask around and find a quality alignment shop, and let them check it out / set the alignment. And quality doesn't always mean a big shop. The one I go to is a one-man operation.
I have found the quality of alignment makes all the difference in the world on these trucks. Set it all to whatever specs the alignment machine says is "right" and it drives like ass. Finally found a shop an hour from my home town that does the alignment to his own specs, and it drives like a dream. He tells me every time what he does different than OE recommendations, but I forget what it is, because I now only get an alignment when I get new tires or break a steering box, so every 3-4 years. Hmm, about due for another steering box I think...
The point of that story is ask around and find a quality alignment shop, and let them check it out / set the alignment. And quality doesn't always mean a big shop. The one I go to is a one-man operation.