Hairline crack = bad vibration
- Thread starter Cornell
- Start date
I just got a phone call from the tranny shop and this is what mine did again! This is the 2nd time this has happened. Its from worn out U-joints I think but I stopped driving it as soon as I noticed the U-joints getting bad and it was still too late. I guess that brace would be the way to go.
i paid 570 for the housing from gm dealer . if that price is with labor its not to far off . if its part only
I've had two crack on me. After the first one, I also had a SC trans brace installed and if you read carfeully, I said I've had it happen twice. I'm thinking that brace is a waste of money??? Not that I expected it to, but it doesn't help with bellhousing cracking either.
You can get a new tailhousing for about $600. Let me ask n see but I may know of one available from a 5-spd truck a friend of mine has...
C-ya
You can get a new tailhousing for about $600. Let me ask n see but I may know of one available from a 5-spd truck a friend of mine has...
C-ya
Issue 1. Greasable U-Joint issue 2.from advance auto part
I learned the hard way
They ahd less than 6k on them.Attachments
I've had two crack on me. After the first one, I also had a SC trans brace installed and if you read carfeully, I said I've had it happen twice. I'm thinking that brace is a waste of money??? Not that I expected it to, but it doesn't help with bellhousing cracking either.
You can get a new tailhousing for about $600. Let me ask n see but I may know of one available from a 5-spd truck a friend of mine has...
C-ya
Thanks SmokeShow, its for my work truck and I don't want to sink too much into it right now. Its an 01. It also needs a flywheel cause the starter is slipping on the ring gear about every 10th time you go to start it.
i have had greasable u joints in for almost 20k miles and a dozen sled pulls and the same amount of runs down the track......no issues yet.
I do have New GM ones ready though, just in case, but i wanted to try these out and have had them in since before IronHyde was ever used for anything other than DD.
That's because you don't have the power to break it.
J/K Where's the nutkick smiley when you need it.
Tests have shown the solid to me much stronger than the greasable ones. Alot comes into play on how/when one will break, but I have solids in all mine and the superstock boys learned long ago to stay far away from the greasable ones. If they are still in Ironhyde I would at least check them before too long.
Damn thats nice. Guess I'll be taking the greasable joints I put in 50k miles ago out. But mine are not factory replacement joints. They are supposed to be a beefier joint than factory size.