Question: GM IFS suspension set-up

duramaxzak

Wanna be puller!
Nov 22, 2008
2,431
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Minnesota
I ended up ordering:

- Viking performance (Same company as QA1) Double adjustable coil over shocks.
- Hypercoil 950lbs. springs. (Found used with about 10 miles on them for $60 shipped!)
- Procomp stud mount adapter 690001.

I will update when there installed, but will not know how they perform till next spring!!!
 

duramaxzak

Wanna be puller!
Nov 22, 2008
2,431
14
38
Minnesota
I was able to mock up the coil overs this weekend. I cut the original bump stop bracket off the frame for clearance. I also removed the torsion bars and crossmember. You loose about 100lbs swapping to coil overs.
 
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duramaxzak

Wanna be puller!
Nov 22, 2008
2,431
14
38
Minnesota
Want to update this thread on coilover shocks on a dedicated pull truck. I have 7 Hook's this year so far and am very happy with how the Viking coilovers have been working. I have both the compression and dampening valving set to about the middle and seem's to work well. I might try tightening them up a bit and see how it goes. It was nice to delete the torsion bars and be able to move the weight savings to the weight box.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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Good to see someone using those Viking coilovers. I was wondering what quality they were and how they perform. Thanks, Zak.
 

x MadMAX DIESEL

<<<< No Horsepower
Dec 30, 2008
7,535
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Lexington, Ky
Do you think there is a big difference in traction? Way I figure it is long as your front isn't raising and your not bouncing you can't really add anymore bite through suspension. But I'm still interested in all of it


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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Do you think there is a big difference in traction? Way I figure it is long as your front isn't raising and your not bouncing you can't really add anymore bite through suspension. But I'm still interested in all of it


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having better control over valving can make a difference. when you run a coilover, you can run a better spring rate than what the factory torsion bar offers, that allows the shock valving to work more effectively. i have no first hand experience in sled pulling but i would bet a better spring rate helps keep the front end down a bit more as well as help stop a bounce you may incur from a bump down the track. in my world, valving can make a truck with limited wheel travel out run a truck with twice the wheel travel and bad valving. i have yet to see that general idea of good valving not transfer over into any other area where suspension is used.
 

nwpadmax

comlpete diphsit
Aug 17, 2006
110
0
16
under my truck
When you say "better" spring rate...which direction do you mean? Increase or decrease?

Be nice if you could give an example so I can grasp what you're saying better.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Ever wonder why the front end bounces off a curb when you pull out of a driveway? You may never think different about it till being in a truck with a spring rate and valve setup for the specific weight and more than stock wheel travel
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
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Bouncing off a curb? We're talking pulling...

Do you really know what the spring rates are?
Dude, shut up.
He has forgotten more about suspension stuff than you'll ever know
I'd bet he does know the exact specs for what you're looking for, but youre not gonna be gettin him to tell ya shit with a smart assed attitude

He clearly stated he had no first hand experience in sled pulling...so he gave you a real world example to explain shock valving and spring rate.. You want him to lie instead?

And FYI
A "better spring rate" is anything that does an intended task for a given environment with better (for you) results than the stock set up...could be more spring rate could be less for what you're lookin to do
Good luck;)
 
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x MadMAX DIESEL

<<<< No Horsepower
Dec 30, 2008
7,535
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34
Lexington, Ky
Dude, shut up.
He has forgotten more about suspension stuff than you'll ever know
I'd bet he does know the exact specs for what you're looking for, but youre not gonna be gettin him to tell ya shit with a smart assed attitude

He clearly stated he had no first hand experience in sled pulling...so he gave you a real world example to explain shock valving and spring rate.. You want him to lie instead?

And FYI
A "better spring rate" is anything that does an intended task for a given environment with better (for you) results than the stock set up...could be more spring rate could be less for what you're lookin to do
Good luck;)


And then your talking to someone whose had a lot more experience pulling than most on this site.


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TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,610
1,866
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Mid Michigan
Yep, when Matt is asking for specs, its not just for the hell of it. If he and James can get on the same page, it might be very beneficial to many of us. :) :hug:

Coco, you really dont know the history of a lot of the longer-term members of this site.
 

duramaxzak

Wanna be puller!
Nov 22, 2008
2,431
14
38
Minnesota
Do you think there is a big difference in traction? Way I figure it is long as your front isn't raising and your not bouncing you can't really add anymore bite through suspension. But I'm still interested in all of it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure if it really gives you anymore traction, but it does give you alot more control over what your front suspension is going to do. It's nice being able to adjust the valving and also getting rid of the torsion bars and cross member.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,670
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Bouncing off a curb? We're talking pulling...

Do you really know what the spring rates are?


I don't understand your combativeness. I'm explaining something in terms most understand. You can not control the rebound of the stock torsion bars with shocks near as well as you can with a coil springs setup for the weight of the truck. And torsion bar will have 10,000lbs at its peak twist point compared to a coil spring that has 5600lbs at its block height (12" long, 800lbs spring, 2.5" ID FYI). The spring back from the coil spring is much easier to control with rebound and compression valving will be heavier valved as compared a torsion bar setup unless you run a shit ton of weight in the front end and are not on the suspension stops with ride height close to stock. You need heavy rebound to hopefully get you close and light compression. This is ass backwards and indicative of a spring rate way too high for the vehicle. I lived under the assumption that torsion bars could be made to work as well as a coil over. About 6 years back I discovered torsion will never be close to coilovers in these trucks.

I don't hear of pullers on here valving their shocks other than zak. If your not playing with that, you have an adjustment that could make the difference in a win or not.
 

nwpadmax

comlpete diphsit
Aug 17, 2006
110
0
16
under my truck
Not being combative. I'm an engineer and I was looking for a response like you gave the second time around. Thank you.

And yes, this is sledpulling, we do run a shit ton of weight up front. And the valving interests me quite a bit. Hardly anyone is doing it AFAIK, aside from the Super Stock guys.

If I read you correctly, it would seem that the torsion bar spring rate is low compared to the coilover example (at roughly stock ride height, not peak) Correct? Because the front is so damn limp as soon as we let off the throttle. I believe this is great for keeping hop out of the truck, but maybe it's too much of a good thing.

For reference, trucks with stiff leafs in the front (Fords) are just horrible pullers and hop like a nightmare. I have slo-mo video of one where hop in the rear reflects into the front and the whole thing goes into oscillation quickly.

The coil over Dodges have few issues.
 
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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,670
5,818
113
Phoenix Az
Not being combative. I'm an engineer and I was looking for a response like you gave the second time around. Thank you.

And yes, this is sledpulling, we do run a shit ton of weight up front. And the valving interests me quite a bit. Hardly anyone is doing it AFAIK, aside from the Super Stock guys.

If I read you correctly, it would seem that the torsion bar spring rate is low compared to the coilover example (at roughly stock ride height, not peak) Correct? Because the front is so damn limp as soon as we let off the throttle. I believe this is great for keeping hop out of the truck, but maybe it's too much of a good thing.

For reference, trucks with stiff leafs in the front (Fords) are just horrible pullers and hop like a nightmare. I have slo-mo video of one where hop in the rear reflects into the front and the whole thing goes into oscillation quickly.

The coil over Dodges have few issues.


Got ya, I may have "read into" your post then, hence the assumption.

I need to break your comment down further to explain this better.

As for the amount of lbs it takes to hold the truck at stock ride height, there are a few issues for comparison (I'm only talking the amount of lbs/inch to achieve ride height). If mounting points were the same for both springs and say the torsion bar is 1000lbs/inch verses a coil spring with 800lbs/inch, either spring will still take the same amount of lbs to hold it up but the coil spring will compress more to achieve it. So to make the coil spring match the torsion bars ride height, the coil spring will need more preload. in the end, if it takes 3" from the torsion bar to achieve ride height (3000lbs on the torsion bar from vehicle weight), the coil will need a total of 3.75" of preload to reach it.

Now the factory mounting point of the torsion bar has a 4:1 ratio on the control arm. This means you have a hell of a spring rate in the torsion bar to achieve desired ride height due to leverage. So the spring rate is ridiculously high to compensate for that leverage but like you pointed out, in the small amount of stock wheel travel, you can easily unload those bars to a very light amount of spring load when your pulling and as you hit bumper or get a hop, you get drastic changes in spring load.

With a coil over, your leverage with the LCA changes to a ratio much closer to 2:1. This allows a lighter spring rate to be used to achieve ride height over the torsion bar and a much better progression of spring load as it is loaded and unloaded (you won't go from a 10k load to 1k load in 6" of wheel travel like a torsion bar). That allows shock valving to be much more effective and easier to tune in. In my world, you only want a spring to hold the truck up by a certain amount of preload, the rest of the control is done with valving on a single spring rate shock setup, beyond that you create a rough ride or weird valving characteristics that won't work well. Too low and you can run into coil bind issues to just get ride height and heavy valving that will heat up a shock quickly. You can achieve more spring load onto the LCA due to preload into the spring but when the front end rises, it still took x amount of spring load, weight transfer, and leverage on the ass end to make is rise to that height. Adding more preload might work to a point, then it will just cause the front end to rise more when you take off. You will have a wider range to adjust though on a coil over than compared to a torsion bar. It's a combo of things helping, the better spring position with leverage, better spring rate, and better valving to match. I wouldn't get hooked on the fact the spring puts more load on the LCA as much as the valving and better spring rate help control that front tire much better.

My terminology may not be spot on so just ask if unclear. Sometimes I have a hard time describing what I want to say in text lol.