General longevity? 263k miles and climbing

[1brokekid]

Ok so I am more than worried about the longevity of the hard parts on my LBZ.

Some background on the truck:
It has 263k miles and is my daily driver. It rarely tows, but when it does it's no more than 8k lbs. I do like having fun in it, and hit the drag strip ever once in a while. It live in Texas weather, which is anywhere from 15 to 100+ degree weather throughout the year. It currently has 4" MBRP straight exhaust, S&B intake tube and filter, PCV reroute, and I capped off the turbo resonator. I change the oil very regularly with rotella t 15w-40 and an ac Delco filter. I also change the fuel filter with a wix unit every other oil change.

In the past 6 months or so I've replaced:
Upper and lower balljoints
All control arm bushings
Shocks
Sway bar end links
Inner and outer tie rods with sleeves
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Idler arm bracket
Alignment and brand new tires
PS and DS hubs
Rear driver shaft u joints
Transmission mount
Transmission lines
Transmission cooler
Power steering lines
Power steering pump
Both batteries
Both thermostats

I have just ordered dsp5 tuning from kory Willis and fish tuning switch. Going with stock tranny safe tuning. I have an EGR blocker plate on my shelf I need to install, and requested that kory disable my EGR.
I also need to either shin my FPRV or buy a race valve. I throw p0087 codes every so often. Also have brand new rear axle seals I need to install.

These little things are not the parts I am worried about. I am worried about the hard parts like injectors, CP3 pump, transmission, torque converter, and parts like this going south.

To make it as clear as possible how tight my budget is, I'm 17, attend high school full time, and work as much as possible. I start college in the fall. This being said, the "smart" thing to do would be to sell the truck right now and buy a cheaper vehicle with less miles and cheaper to replace. But I LOVE this truck, and don't want to let it go.

What can I do to help lengthen the life of my factory injectors? Is there a cheaper or atleast a band aid fix if I do have to replace injectors? Last time a checked my balance rates (6 or so months ago) they were all within -1 to 1 with the exception of 2 of them being around -3.1 and one being around 2.5. I'm constantly worried one day that one injector will take a dump and I have no where near enough money to buy a new set of injectors.

Would adding a lift pump lessen the stress on the cp3 and lengthen its life? This is another part that worries me every time I drive my truck that it may fail, and I won't have the money to replace it.

The transmission in general scares me given them fact that anything to do with the Allison is ungodly expensive and equally complicated. I plan on doing a transgo jr in the very near future to help lengthen the life of it.

All of this being said, i am very mechanically competent and can figure most anything out with the proper information given. I have a small 20x30 shop where I do all my work and quite an array of tools. I'm fairly confident I could replace the injectors, cp3, and pull the transmission myself. Digging into the transmission I'm not as confident.

Sorry for the extremely long winded post but I'm looking for some answers, so I'm not forced to sell the truck. It has to last me atleast through college (another 4.5 years) and hopefully longer, but I also want to be able to enjoy it and not baby it around everywhere.

Thanks in advance! You guys are the best.
Korbin





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ty_LBZ]

First of all, be careful with the tuning and other power mods, LBZs are notorious for having cheap pistons that crack, ask me how I know. Use better fuel filters, Racor or AC Delcos are a better quality. My balance rates were good, but during my motor build, I decided to have them checked by Exergy, 3 of them had high return rates, that's with 185k miles.

Diesels are generally have high maintenance cost, fuel, filters, and hard parts as you mentioned. If you do all the maintenance yourself, you don't have to pay high shop rates, I think you could get by using the DMAX as your primary vehicle.

 

[elliottw]

You can run the gm top engine cleaner, I've had that bring down injector rates at work. http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/83493-how-diy-injector-cleaning.html#/forumsite/20663/topics/83493 I also recommend a lift pump and using either cat filter and adapter or AC delco fuel filters.

 

[Chevy1925]

Ok so I am more than worried about the longevity of the hard parts on my LBZ.

Some background on the truck:
It has 263k miles and is my daily driver. It rarely tows, but when it does it's no more than 8k lbs. I do like having fun in it, and hit the drag strip ever once in a while. It live in Texas weather, which is anywhere from 15 to 100+ degree weather throughout the year. It currently has 4" MBRP straight exhaust, S&B intake tube and filter, PCV reroute, and I capped off the turbo resonator. I change the oil very regularly with rotella t 15w-40 and an ac Delco filter. I also change the fuel filter with a wix unit every other oil change.

In the past 6 months or so I've replaced:
Upper and lower balljoints
All control arm bushings
Shocks
Sway bar end links
Inner and outer tie rods with sleeves
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Idler arm bracket
Alignment and brand new tires
PS and DS hubs
Rear driver shaft u joints
Transmission mount
Transmission lines
Transmission cooler
Power steering lines
Power steering pump
Both batteries
Both thermostats

I have just ordered dsp5 tuning from kory Willis and fish tuning switch. Going with stock tranny safe tuning. I have an EGR blocker plate on my shelf I need to install, and requested that kory disable my EGR.
I also need to either shin my FPRV or buy a race valve. I throw p0087 codes every so often. Also have brand new rear axle seals I need to install.

These little things are not the parts I am worried about. I am worried about the hard parts like injectors, CP3 pump, transmission, torque converter, and parts like this going south.

To make it as clear as possible how tight my budget is, I'm 17, attend high school full time, and work as much as possible. I start college in the fall. This being said, the "smart" thing to do would be to sell the truck right now and buy a cheaper vehicle with less miles and cheaper to replace. But I LOVE this truck, and don't want to let it go.

What can I do to help lengthen the life of my factory injectors? Is there a cheaper or atleast a band aid fix if I do have to replace injectors? Last time a checked my balance rates (6 or so months ago) they were all within -1 to 1 with the exception of 2 of them being around -3.1 and one being around 2.5. I'm constantly worried one day that one injector will take a dump and I have no where near enough money to buy a new set of injectors.

Would adding a lift pump lessen the stress on the cp3 and lengthen its life? This is another part that worries me every time I drive my truck that it may fail, and I won't have the money to replace it.

The transmission in general scares me given them fact that anything to do with the Allison is ungodly expensive and equally complicated. I plan on doing a transgo jr in the very near future to help lengthen the life of it.

All of this being said, i am very mechanically competent and can figure most anything out with the proper information given. I have a small 20x30 shop where I do all my work and quite an array of tools. I'm fairly confident I could replace the injectors, cp3, and pull the transmission myself. Digging into the transmission I'm not as confident.

Sorry for the extremely long winded post but I'm looking for some answers, so I'm not forced to sell the truck. It has to last me atleast through college (another 4.5 years) and hopefully longer, but I also want to be able to enjoy it and not baby it around everywhere.

Thanks in advance! You guys are the best.
Korbin





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My first suggestion. If your that worried and that broke, DO NOT TUNE THE TRUCK. chances of things going wrong or being hurt go up when you do, specially on a stock trans.I know you are probably dieing to get some more power out of this truck but i highly suggest you think twice. loosing a trans half way through college sucks, been there done that.

A lift pump will certainly help your CP3, the fact you are throwing a low rail pressure code on stock tuning worries me though. i would suggest you dig deeper into that before doing anything else to the truck. it could be a warning sign of a bad CP3 or injectors.

You dont need to buy a whole new set of injectors. fix the problem ones and continue on. just buy stock ones to replace the stock ones. balance rates are only part of the test and you need to consider what the main fuel rate is when checking balance rates as it can change what injectors are actually bad. You should also do a return rate test to confirm bad injector/s.

do you have any idea if the previous owner ran a tune on the truck?

your in good hands here, just really take our advice into consideration even if its stuff you dont want to hear. Ive been in your shoes before and still made it work

 

[jacobdewey]

My first suggestion. If your that worried and that broke, DO NOT TUNE THE TRUCK. chances of things going wrong or being hurt go up when you do, specially on a stock trans.I know you are probably dieing to get some more power out of this truck but i highly suggest you think twice. loosing a trans half way through college sucks, been there done that.

A lift pump will certainly help your CP3, the fact you are throwing a low rail pressure code on stock tuning worries me though. i would suggest you dig deeper into that before doing anything else to the truck. it could be a warning sign of a bad CP3 or injectors.

You dont need to buy a whole new set of injectors. fix the problem ones and continue on. just buy stock ones to replace the stock ones. balance rates are only part of the test and you need to consider what the main fuel rate is when checking balance rates as it can change what injectors are actually bad. You should also do a return rate test to confirm bad injector/s.

do you have any idea if the previous owner ran a tune on the truck?

your in good hands here, just really take our advice into consideration even if its stuff you dont want to hear. Ive been in your shoes before and still made it work

Perfectly said.

 

[Hernpj01]

Perfectly said.

ill third that! put your school first too!

 

[02greysixer]

ill third that! put your school first too!

Ditto. I racked up a good but of cc debt because of a blown Duramax in college. If you have the will power not to turn it up any an egr deleted stock tune would be good. I do not have the will power not to turn it up any though. There's a lot of trucks out there with stupid high miles and fully functioning egr systems too so it's no necessity.

 

[1brokekid]

My first suggestion. If your that worried and that broke, DO NOT TUNE THE TRUCK. chances of things going wrong or being hurt go up when you do, specially on a stock trans.I know you are probably dieing to get some more power out of this truck but i highly suggest you think twice. loosing a trans half way through college sucks, been there done that.

A lift pump will certainly help your CP3, the fact you are throwing a low rail pressure code on stock tuning worries me though. i would suggest you dig deeper into that before doing anything else to the truck. it could be a warning sign of a bad CP3 or injectors.

You dont need to buy a whole new set of injectors. fix the problem ones and continue on. just buy stock ones to replace the stock ones. balance rates are only part of the test and you need to consider what the main fuel rate is when checking balance rates as it can change what injectors are actually bad. You should also do a return rate test to confirm bad injector/s.

do you have any idea if the previous owner ran a tune on the truck?

your in good hands here, just really take our advice into consideration even if its stuff you dont want to hear. Ive been in your shoes before and still made it work

I can't believe I left out that I run a superchips flashpaq that I got for free. So it is tuned.

I've already ordered the tuning, and do plan on running it, mostly on the economy setting to save me a little cash at the pump, but every once in a while on the 70 horse or 90 horse tune. I'm curious as to what will make the truck last with these mods.

I also threw a p0401 along with a p0087 code last night? The truck was idling for about 30 min and when I went to drive off, it wouldn't go anywhere. It's done this before but every other time it's done it was just a p0087 code, and it only happens every few months after the truck idles for 30-45 minutes+. Does the p0401 code just mean I need to hurry up and get that EGR blocker in there to solve the issue, or do I need to dig deeper?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Chevy1925]

I can't believe I left out that I run a superchips flashpaq that I got for free. So it is tuned.

I've already ordered the tuning, and do plan on running it, mostly on the economy setting to save me a little cash at the pump, but every once in a while on the 70 horse or 90 horse tune. I'm curious as to what will make the truck last with these mods.

I also threw a p0401 along with a p0087 code last night? The truck was idling for about 30 min and when I went to drive off, it wouldn't go anywhere. It's done this before but every other time it's done it was just a p0087 code, and it only happens every few months after the truck idles for 30-45 minutes+. Does the p0401 code just mean I need to hurry up and get that EGR blocker in there to solve the issue, or do I need to dig deeper?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

you need to answer my question about the previous owner and your truck. your hurting your trans and with as many miles as you have on it now ill be wishing you the best of luck it holds even with a transgo jr. that will not undo damage already done.

i gave you the best advice possible for a broke kid that wants his truck to last through college with the least amount of headaches possible. run a single econ tune that adds hardly any power or no added power at all. turning that switch up and all bets are off, a single tune will keep you from doing that .

continue on with your egr stuff if you really want but the p0087 is the code you REALLY need to investigate

 

[1brokekid]

you need to answer my question about the previous owner and your truck. your hurting your trans and with as many miles as you have on it now ill be wishing you the best of luck it holds even with a transgo jr. that will not undo damage already done.



i gave you the best advice possible for a broke kid that wants his truck to last through college with the least amount of headaches possible. run a single econ tune that adds hardly any power or no added power at all. turning that switch up and all bets are off, a single tune will keep you from doing that .



continue on with your egr stuff if you really want but the p0087 is the code you REALLY need to investigate

When we purchased the truck more than a year ago, previous owner said he NEVER had a programmer on it, and the truck was bone stock. Not a bolt turned on it. Now, whether or not that's the 100% truth I'll never know.

And I know turning the tune up is begging for it to go south, and that's why I'm here. I'm wondering what I can do to help prolong the life of these parts with a tune. I know it won't last forever, but what can I do to prolong it, or what route should I take to fixing it. I really feel like a lift pump would help a ton with my cp3. As far as injectors, which injectors on a tight budget would you guys run? I've read remans are a no no, but why? For me they're a lot more appealing. I can save my money quite well, and don't have a problem replacing injectors, or dropping the tranny persay, but I need the time to save some money up. I also feel like a transgo jr with mikes springs will gain me a little time too. Mo understand fully well that if I want it to last I need to run a baby tune and never put my foot in it, but I'm a gear head at heart, and that's not going to happen. :lol:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ty_LBZ]

FYI, Korys economy tune is about +90hp, IIRC. Take James advice.

 

[Chevy1925]

When we purchased the truck more than a year ago, previous owner said he NEVER had a programmer on it, and the truck was bone stock. Not a bolt turned on it. Now, whether or not that's the 100% truth I'll never know.

And I know turning the tune up is begging for it to go south, and that's why I'm here. I'm wondering what I can do to help prolong the life of these parts with a tune. I know it won't last forever, but what can I do to prolong it, or what route should I take to fixing it. I really feel like a lift pump would help a ton with my cp3. As far as injectors, which injectors on a tight budget would you guys run? I've read remans are a no no, but why? For me they're a lot more appealing. I can save my money quite well, and don't have a problem replacing injectors, or dropping the tranny persay, but I need the time to save some money up. I also feel like a transgo jr with mikes springs will gain me a little time too. Mo understand fully well that if I want it to last I need to run a baby tune and never put my foot in it, but I'm a gear head at heart, and that's not going to happen. :lol:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the transgo jr will give you false hope. start saving for a trans now. there is no prolonging it other than keeping it on a stock tune. above that, you will shorten its life no matter what. if your truck had 50k on it, the transgo jr might do something for you but not now with the mileage and the fact you have had a tuner on it. i thought i could prolong the trans by never hammering on it in 5th gear.... nope. all my clutches were toast and that was on small edge w/ attitude tuning.

if you want injectors, you need to go through a reputable shop listed in the vendor section here or go to the dealer and pick some up. there are other reputable places not on our vendor list but our selection here has some of the best prices. if you find some for lots cheaper, be skeptical, VERY skeptical. Hell post up here and as about them before buying.

i really suggest you sit back and think about your allocation of your money. im watching you turn from a penny pincher to "ill just save knowing im gunna beat on it". thats a bad path because when you play with that fire, you damn well better keep it in the back of your mind you could be fixing a broke trans from just one run on your biggest tune or even a cracked piston. do i think its likely it will happen on that small of tuning you are gunna run? nope but i was also thought the 550hp i was pushing on twin turbos wasnt enough to bend rods in an LB7 nor did many many other people because no one else was. 2 months later i was pulling a motor to build it when i wasnt planning on doing that for a year or 2 just. and all cause i couldnt keep my fingers off the knob and turned it to the big tune.

again, im telling you this because i have been you. i was a broke ass kid going to college and working full time. I know what your posting here and i know what you really want to do with the truck, just be careful. weeks of top ramen and dollar menu food sucks cause you hurt the truck and cant afford to go out with the guys or girls on the weekends. when you get to college, you will understand why. its damn worth it to keep the truck low on power right now.

 

[1brokekid]

the transgo jr will give you false hope. start saving for a trans now. there is no prolonging it other than keeping it on a stock tune. above that, you will shorten its life no matter what. if your truck had 50k on it, the transgo jr might do something for you but not now with the mileage and the fact you have had a tuner on it. i thought i could prolong the trans by never hammering on it in 5th gear.... nope. all my clutches were toast and that was on small edge w/ attitude tuning.

if you want injectors, you need to go through a reputable shop listed in the vendor section here or go to the dealer and pick some up. there are other reputable places not on our vendor list but our selection here has some of the best prices. if you find some for lots cheaper, be skeptical, VERY skeptical. Hell post up here and as about them before buying.

i really suggest you sit back and think about your allocation of your money. im watching you turn from a penny pincher to "ill just save knowing im gunna beat on it". thats a bad path because when you play with that fire, you damn well better keep it in the back of your mind you could be fixing a broke trans from just one run on your biggest tune or even a cracked piston. do i think its likely it will happen on that small of tuning you are gunna run? nope but i was also thought the 550hp i was pushing on twin turbos wasnt enough to bend rods in an LB7 nor did many many other people because no one else was. 2 months later i was pulling a motor to build it when i wasnt planning on doing that for a year or 2 just. and all cause i couldnt keep my fingers off the knob and turned it to the big tune.

again, im telling you this because i have been you. i was a broke ass kid going to college and working full time. I know what your posting here and i know what you really want to do with the truck, just be careful. weeks of top ramen and dollar menu food sucks cause you hurt the truck and cant afford to go out with the guys or girls on the weekends. when you get to college, you will understand why. its damn worth it to keep the truck low on power right now.

I guess it's just hard hearing it for me. I guess my dilemma is that if I have to baby the truck and never have fun with it, then I'm better off selling it and buying a lower miles gasser. This was my original plan and I convinced myself to keep the truck and fix all the issues.

So how does this sound:
Keep the truck and run the EFI tuning I've already purchased, and run the smallest tune possible and baby the truck while I save money for a built transmission. Also while babying the truck install a lift pump to help with the cp3. Continue to baby the truck while I save for injectors and a new cp3. Once all these are replaced I should be good(ish) to go right?

I'm looking at the PATC level 3 kit, which includes everything from torque converter to the filters, and claims being good to 600hp and 1000tq, which is more than I ever plan on pushing. The kit runs $1900. The plan is to find an Allison 6 speed core for around 5-800 bucks and rebuild it, then once it's buttoned up swap it in place of my stocker. Im fairly confident that if I'm not rushed, And with the proper information I could do the rebuild myself. Does this sound reasonable or should I just rebuild the one in my truck, or pay someone to do it. Remember I'm tight as hell with my money.

I'm also looking at the Kennedy diesel single lift pump which runs $375 and claims everything is needed for the install. This will make my cp3's life a little easier until I can afford to replace it. This would begin the road to chasing the p0087 code. I would probably do this before I rebuild the transmission.

Any input? You guys are a huge help, and I have gained more info here than anywhere else. I come from the LS engine world, so all this diesel stuff is still new to me, but I'm loving every minute of it. Thanks guys.

Edit: graduation is coming up, and you guys know what that means: graduation money! I don't really know if it'd be wrong of me to put some of that towards my truck, but I need my truck to go to school, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Chevy1925]

I guess it's just hard hearing it for me. I guess my dilemma is that if I have to baby the truck and never have fun with it, then I'm better off selling it and buying a lower miles gasser. This was my original plan and I convinced myself to keep the truck and fix all the issues.

So how does this sound:
Keep the truck and run the EFI tuning I've already purchased, and run the smallest tune possible and baby the truck while I save money for a built transmission. Also while babying the truck install a lift pump to help with the cp3. Continue to baby the truck while I save for injectors and a new cp3. Once all these are replaced I should be good(ish) to go right?

I'm looking at the PATC level 3 kit, which includes everything from torque converter to the filters, and claims being good to 600hp and 1000tq, which is more than I ever plan on pushing. The kit runs $1900. The plan is to find an Allison 6 speed core for around 5-800 bucks and rebuild it, then once it's buttoned up swap it in place of my stocker. Im fairly confident that if I'm not rushed, And with the proper information I could do the rebuild myself. Does this sound reasonable or should I just rebuild the one in my truck, or pay someone to do it. Remember I'm tight as hell with my money.

I'm also looking at the Kennedy diesel single lift pump which runs $375 and claims everything is needed for the install. This will make my cp3's life a little easier until I can afford to replace it. This would begin the road to chasing the p0087 code. I would probably do this before I rebuild the transmission.

Any input? You guys are a huge help, and I have gained more info here than anywhere else. I come from the LS engine world, so all this diesel stuff is still new to me, but I'm loving every minute of it. Thanks guys.

Edit: graduation is coming up, and you guys know what that means: graduation money! I don't really know if it'd be wrong of me to put some of that towards my truck, but I need my truck to go to school, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

lol i know it and hear ya, it sucks. But reality smacking you in the face hurts worse.

Where are you located? i would highly recommend having one of the top guys put their hands in your trans. it will be well more than 1900 bucks (4000, or more) but you get a guy who knows this trans like the back of his hands and generally carries a warranty along with it. Dont dive into the trans cause you are being cheap. If you miss something, dont have the proper clearances, or know exactly how to set the trans up for your power level, you will destroy 1900 bucks worth of parts in a hurry. you will more than likely be getting a single disc converter for the price your saying and that wont hold up long under 500+ hp. a good triple disk converter is going to run your 1000+. in the end, its not cheap but it cant be to get something to hold our power, weight and abuse reliably. there are some things you just cant go cheap on and gotta do the right way the first time.

here is what i would do. your plan on the tuning sounds great but sticking to it will be your biggest challenge. I would then be doing a bottle test (search here for what that entails) to see if that may be the reason why you are getting the p0087 code. if not, you need to start looking at return rates on both the injectors and CP3. this will tell you where all your fuel is going and why you may be getting that code. once you figure that out, get your lift pump. Kennedy is a good setup so your good there. your trans should be the last thing and save everything for, otherwise enjoy college and pay for it after your graduate but keep that damn power level down. just fix the truck as things come up. Money will come much easier once you are out. im reiterating on that damn power level cause that knob makes it so easy to go "well i gotta see what it has once" or "well ill just turn it up once to beat that guy" and so on. i purposely run a single tune in my truck to keep me from switching tunes all the time. i know i dont have the will power for it.

 

[cstephens93]

Maybe if I were you, I'd just have the tunes sent back or even just set them aside in the closet until you know you can start saving money for a built transmission or anything else.

Take me for example, I got my first Duramax with 192k miles in august 2013. I ran a 500hp tune on it for about two months before I finally decided to build my transmission. Luckily, I didnt have to spend too much money to have my transmission built and I didnt limp my tranny before pulling it and running the tune. Fastforward a week or so, then im running a 500hp tune with a newly built tranny and a newly installed lift pump. This was around October of 2014.

For about 7 months prior to building my transmission, I was faced with head gasket paranoia. I didnt have the upper rad hose issue, but I was losing coolant and always had the low coolant light on. Finally I decided now or never and tore into to the motor and pulled the heads in about 8 hours and sure enough I had a blown gasket on the passenger side. I put new gaskets on, slightly ported my heads, and put ARP studs in and deleted the EGR and put the LML manifold on, and shimmed my fprv. This was about a month ago. Total job took me 24-27 hours with just myself and my dad. Good learning experience and only cost me my time and about 1000 bucks in actual parts. Mostly the head studs.

Now im thinking everything is good and decide to spend 1000 dollars on Idaho Robs DSP5 built tranny tuning and a V2. Of course like 3-4 weeks after install it, I log some runs and now I notice I'm not making enough rail pressure (ecm calls for 26kpsi but Im only making 21kpsi). Awesome. I have no idea if its my injectors or a bad CP3 or even if my shim kit didnt do anything. So now its time to start saving money for either new CP3 or new injectors. I'm hoping its just my Cp3, but those still cost about 700 bucks im sure.

My point is, its going to cost time and money no matter what. If I were you, I'd save up for a tranny build, a new cp3, possibly injectors, or any hard part like that before I shell out any more money on tunes.

 

[1brokekid]

Ok truck keeps throwing p0087 only after idling for more than 20 or 30 min. Any ideas? doesn't throw the code any other time though. Not even under full throttle. Only other time it's thrown p0087 was with a trashed fuel filter.

Edit: also when it does this, the truck won't go past like 1100 rpm, I can either kill the truck, or clear the codes and it goes back to normal. What gives? Truck drives fine..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk