LLY: Fuel Return Circuit

Bdsankey

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I am wondering if anyone has made their own fuel return circuit? I am going to have to ditch my factory return circuit due to the turbine housing taking up that real estate.


I'm mainly trying to figure out a way to adapt the injector returns, the pumps are pretty easy as well as the fuel temp sensor. I tried using the search function but it just errors out and tells me the page is not responding.
 

Blackmax123

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Check out the new injector return rails that dhd sells now. You can thread an an fotting in the front then just build a nice return block and return all your pumps and injectors to 1 block.
 

Bdsankey

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Check out the new injector return rails that dhd sells now. You can thread an an fotting in the front then just build a nice return block and return all your pumps and injectors to 1 block.

Thanks for the heads up! I know Greg Hogue had some he was displaying (same concept, maybe even same parts). Was trying to kind of keep it cheaper but if I have to go expensive then I guess I will.
 

Bdsankey

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I buy the injector return repair kit from merchant and a couple barbed fittings from Amazon and make them.

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Do you have the PN for the fitting? That is essentially what I'm looking for. My lines are less than a year old just the metal tube near the glow plug module will be in my way with keeping the t6 housing in the valley.
 

ikeG

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Do you have the PN for the fitting? That is essentially what I'm looking for. My lines are less than a year old just the metal tube near the glow plug module will be in my way with keeping the t6 housing in the valley.
I dont have the number. Aren't the lines 1/8"? Just Google '1/8" barbed tee' or whatever

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2004LB7

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Check out Mcmaster carr. They likely have everything you need to make your own kit. Hoses, fittings, blocks, etc

I've always had good luck with them
 

JoshH

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You don't have to have the temp sensor. Just make sure the tune isn't limiting anything because of it.
 

Bdsankey

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You don't have to have the temp sensor. Just make sure the tune isn't limiting anything because of it.

Thanks for the heads up, I didn't know that. I thought it was mandatory or the ECM would get pissed. Do I just leave it hang or can I remove it completely from the system?



Parker 22-4-8, it will connect the return line to a 3/8's hose

Thank you!
 

kidturbo

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Working on custom returns this week also. Thanks for that Parker #.

As for fuel temp sensor, suggest leave it connected to ecm so it thinks it's working. Just tape up in harness. I divert them and repurpose as Oil Temp sensor in boat builds. The ecm only uses the data to lower FP if temp exceeds like 250F. So it normally it plays no role in fueling..

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Bdsankey

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Parker 22-4-8, it will connect the return line to a 3/8's hose

22-4-8 is to go from -4 (1/4") to -8 (1/2"), are you sure that is correct? I just want to be sure before I order. I thought the return lines were 1/8" coming from the injectors.



EDIT: I'm dumb, its 4mm to 8mm which is exactly what it needs to be.
 
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Bdsankey

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Working on custom returns this week also. Thanks for that Parker #.

As for fuel temp sensor, suggest leave it connected to ecm so it thinks it's working. Just tape up in harness. I divert them and repurpose as Oil Temp sensor in boat builds. The ecm only uses the data to lower FP if temp exceeds like 250F. So it normally it plays no role in fueling..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk



I'm going to use a manifold from McMaster Carr (PN: 5975K16) that has 5x 3/8 NPT ports across the top and 1x 1/2 NPT on each end. That will allow me to have 2x injector bank returns, 2x cp3 returns, and 1x relief valve return.
Using Parker 22-4-8 I will go from the injector return to 3/8" hose then to -6AN on the return manifold. I will then use a M12x1.5 male to 6an out of each pump (Vibrant 16616) to return to the manifold. The valley pump will either get a 45 or straight, I will see what fits on the return side. Both of my pumps are -8AN feeds. My valley pump (14mm exergy street pump) is fed directly whereas my stock LBZ pump is fed through the FICM using Vibrant banjo bolts and -8 lines.



I will then use this adapter to put my fuel temp sensor in one end of the block and then use a -8 line to tank off of one of the other end of the port.
"LINK"






As of now this is my plan. After talking with Ric @ Exergy he doesn't think this will be an issue and should work extremely well with my setup.
 
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rfletes79

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22-4-8 is the correct number for the parker barb adapters, I just purchased them earlier this year to build a new return system for an lbz. Also, I've ran the fuel temp sensor tapped to the harness and repurposed in another vehicle. Currently we use it as an iat sensor in my lb7 Chevelle, just tapped the threads into the intake manifold and can log data via EFILive. We've never attempted to delete it in the tune, as I have heard it will create issues. I would leave it as you plan on doing, tied up in the harness is easy and works fine.
 

Bdsankey

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22-4-8 is the correct number for the parker barb adapters, I just purchased them earlier this year to build a new return system for an lbz. Also, I've ran the fuel temp sensor tapped to the harness and repurposed in another vehicle. Currently we use it as an iat sensor in my lb7 Chevelle, just tapped the threads into the intake manifold and can log data via EFILive. We've never attempted to delete it in the tune, as I have heard it will create issues. I would leave it as you plan on doing, tied up in the harness is easy and works fine.

10-4, I'll just use the adapter fitting and run it in the end of my return manifold. It should work "well enough" at that job.