LMM: fuel filter life 100% to 0% and p0087

mpeters0991

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Aug 17, 2010
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Alright so I got the kinked section of line replaced which wasn't a bad job at all. I ended up taking the DS fender well liner out and using a dremel to cut the crimps and got the lines taken out. The hardest part was getting the new section of parker hose in there (that stuff is thick!). Sad to say though, it didn't fix my problem. So I'm really thinking right now that the FPRV is the problem because it really doesn't like going above 19-20k pressure. It will reach 21k everyone great once in a while but it seems like that is a struggle. However any desired pressure lower than that it has no problem with. What do you guys think? Think its just the fprv or do I have bigger problems?
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
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Alright so I got the kinked section of line replaced which wasn't a bad job at all. I ended up taking the DS fender well liner out and using a dremel to cut the crimps and got the lines taken out. The hardest part was getting the new section of parker hose in there (that stuff is thick!). Sad to say though, it didn't fix my problem. So I'm really thinking right now that the FPRV is the problem because it really doesn't like going above 19-20k pressure. It will reach 21k everyone great once in a while but it seems like that is a struggle. However any desired pressure lower than that it has no problem with. What do you guys think? Think its just the fprv or do I have bigger problems?

Relief valve or the regulator on the cp3? You can bottle test the relief valve, not much you can do with the regulator other than replace it....
lots of things can cause low rail pressure, cp3, injectors, cp3 regulator, rail relief, bad fuel supply etc etc. Your going to have work through each one... It could be that the kinked line hurt the suc pump on the cp3 as nclmm mentioned, a lift pump would cure that issue.
 

mpeters0991

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I meant the relief valve. So I think I'll probably replace that. And work my way up if I have to from there. I just hate the feeling of throwing parts and money at something when you don't know whats causing it but heck the race valve is only like $30 so its not like I'm out a whole lot there.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
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I meant the relief valve. So I think I'll probably replace that. And work my way up if I have to from there. I just hate the feeling of throwing parts and money at something when you don't know whats causing it but heck the race valve is only like $30 so its not like I'm out a whole lot there.

You can bottle test the relief.
 

mpeters0991

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You can bottle test the relief.

I went out there and tried taking that little rubber u shaped hose off on the side closest to the outside of the truck and that darn thing was on there. I gave up because I was afraid I would break the hose lol. I ended up talking with Randall's diesel and I'm going up tomorrow morning to pick up a race plug so hopefully that solves my problem. It's suppose to rain tomorrow so it might not get put in right away since this will be a outside project.
 

mpeters0991

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well I just took the fuel rail plug out and found out it actually already had a alligator race plug in it. So I guess on to the next problem. Do you guys thinking rebuilding the filter housing would be worth it or just go straight to the lift pump.
 

mpeters0991

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Here are some pic of the plug. Looks to be in good shape and nothing wrong with it
 
Last edited:

clrussell

pro-procrastinator
Sep 23, 2013
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I'd just go straight to a lift pump. Then route around the factory head if it leaks.


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mpeters0991

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I'd just go straight to a lift pump. Then route around the factory head if it leaks.
Kind of what I was beginning to think.

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Race plugs can still leak guys... You need to do a bottle test. Then I would do a lift pump.

K I'll see if I can wrestle one of those rubber tubes loose haha. Can you do the bottle test off of the hard line that comes up then turns to rubber? Almost think that might be easier.

Also if its any indication I primed the filter till it was hard after I put the plug back in and started the truck ran it for a minute or two then shut the truck off and the I went back to the primer and was able to push it 12 times more till it got hard. Sounds like it's letting air in don't you guys think?
 

mpeters0991

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Welp I just wanted to let you guys know I just took my truck for a drive for shits and grins since I put that plug back in and the only thing I can guess is the guy who put the plug in in the first place must not have snugged it down enough because I didn't have a problem reaching the desired 26k rail pressure. Talk about relief.

When I took it out to begin with I noticed it wasn't that tight and thought that was weird and when I put it back in I made sure to make it tight.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
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Boise Idaho
Welp I just wanted to let you guys know I just took my truck for a drive for shits and grins since I put that plug back in and the only thing I can guess is the guy who put the plug in in the first place must not have snugged it down enough because I didn't have a problem reaching the desired 26k rail pressure. Talk about relief.

When I took it out to begin with I noticed it wasn't that tight and thought that was weird and when I put it back in I made sure to make it tight.

lol that's good but you would have caught that with the bottle test when I mentioned it the first time:buttkick:
 

mpeters0991

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Yeah your right but I think it was easier getting the plug out then getting that dang hose off lol. Darn thing seems like it's stuck on there. At any rate the problem is taken care of and I'm relieved. Thanks for all your help man. Really appreciate it


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mpeters0991

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Your not kidding. I'm thinking I'll probably still get a lift pump in the near future. The idea of cp3/injector issues is not much fun


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