Fuel filter housing

[JustinD]

Could a leak in the filter housing cause the truck to "rattle" more? Seems like I had a rattle that I thought was in the tuning, I changed my fuel filter 2 days ago and the truck quieted right down, last night I notice a slight rattle again, I cracked the bleeder, not alot of air but some came out. It was quieter for a while but now its starting to come back. Does an airbound fuel system cause a rattle??

 

[ZeroGravity58]

With a lift pump I would think you would have fuel running out if the housing was cracked. Only way i could see air getting in is if you had a leak before the lift pump where you had negative pressure.

 

[JustinD]

The housing always stays wet with fuel, never dries even if I spray it with Brake clean. And it was starting to take longer to start (crank longer)??? Until I bled it again???


Could it suck air without leaking a noticable amount? It doesn't leak on the ground but around the primer pump and bleeder screw is always wet.

 

[DMAXDOC]

Air would make it rattle IMO I think that you have a leak somewhere if it stays wet

 

[JustinD]

Im gonna swap it out tonight, hopefully its the problem, that'd be simple.

 

[Tank222]

Little off topic but my truck is no longer holding rail pressure, and I think my bleeder screw is striped. Would that have any thing to do with it?

 

[BlkMax]

The housing always stays wet with fuel, never dries even if I spray it with Brake clean. And it was starting to take longer to start (crank longer)??? Until I bled it again???


Could it suck air without leaking a noticable amount? It doesn't leak on the ground but around the primer pump and bleeder screw is always wet.

For the record, diesel fuel is one of the hardest liquids to keep in a pipe. I have pressure tested piping with water, put diesel in the line, and had leaks. It may not be cracked, but something may not be completely tight, or leaking. Your bleeder screw may also be stripped (or have pulled threads) if you are using the stock plastic one.

 

[JustinD]

I'll check the bleeder, it is the stock plastic one.

 

[JustinD]

Just put another housing on it, feels good again let's see if it gets airbound again?

 

[JustinD]

I think it might be starting to rattle again.... Wtf?? What next?

 

[JustinD]

Yep it got louder and louder, now it rattles bad again, what could cause this???? Im going crazy here. I wished I never touched it. Ran so good with the stock charger. I changed tyhe filter head Friday night, seemed great until Saturday night, the more I drive it the worse it gets. Runs great after I bleed it for about 50 miles. I do have the Nicktane filter adapter, Im going to take it off and just run a stock filter, I had to take the check ball and spring out of it so it will take the adapter.

 

[Tank222]

Delete the stock housing and see if it changes.

 

[JustinD]

Where would I bleed the air from if I looped the lines?

 

[ZeroGravity58]

The fuel test port right by the alt. Turn on your lift pump and push the needle in until you get fuel.

 

[JustinD]

Ok, Thanks.

 

[JustinD]

Anyone ever had this issue?

 

[JustinD]

I just walked outside and pushed the valve on that test port, looked like pure fuel out of it, no air??

 

[JoshH]

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Maybe the pumps are going bad.

 

[JustinD]

I'm gonna go over to my buddies shop after work he has the big Kennedy gauge that reads pressure at the test port. Where should they be? If I recall mine were 5-6psi maybe 7psi max?

 

[JoshH]

Somewhere around there. I'm thinking that if you're having a problem with the filter head, it should have a fuel leak rather than suck air unless your fuel pumps aren't working. That, or it's sucking air before the pumps. I don't know, just throwing it out there. I have seen a leaking WIF sensor cause a truck to knock/rattle and white smoke when you get on it, but it didn't have a lift pump.