Front end upgrades

N2BRK

Well-known member
Dec 31, 2009
2,066
399
83
I'd have to go back and read. I thought they turned out to be the same. Maybe I'm mistaken.
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,312
624
113
42
in the buckeye state
It been ~10 years almost.. since I looked at that stuff..
Been thinking about putting a bar on the rear of my LMM.. definitely help when running light to empty trailer tends to Push causing understeer tendencies.. add less squat with less weight
 

N2BRK

Well-known member
Dec 31, 2009
2,066
399
83
he does so much double-talk in his posts, that I don't know if they are the same exact bars or not. I *think* that they are, from what I've read. But, his replies are that some models he sells are and some models aren't. He says that if he finds one in production that can't really be improved, he sells what they make but offers his expert service after the sale to attract buyers.
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
4,919
498
83
TX of course
I have had super diesel sleeves and cognito braces since new. At 180k and everything is still tight with exception on 1 lower ball joint that I tore the boot on 8 years ago. I use a high molly grease and haven't even greased my truck 10 times. Other then the one with the torn boot I grease it more. If the boots are firm/full I see no need to add more grease.

Now I don't race or pull like some of these guys. My truck saw lots of 4wd in muddy job sites and tons of WOT pulls on the street in 4wd.

I wouldn't use moog parts. Years ago a lot of guys had there tierods break on them, but haven't heard of that lately.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
3,517
501
113
Central OH
Are you guys running the Moog problem solver parts or the HD version? I've had great luck with the HD version pitman/ idler setup.

I'm currently running Moog HD pitman and idler, DHD brace and Rareparts tierods.
 

c20elephant

C20ELEPHANT
Apr 25, 2013
2,065
0
0
Phoenix, Arizona
I agree with greasing every 3k as that's also when I rotate tires makes it easy to get to everything on the knuckle.

Only need a little, just enough to keep moisture and dirt out. Never used a quick lube place and would have my concerns about the monkey's blowing out the ball joint boots with their air powered grease guns.

I had my sway bars on my 2007 NBS 2500HD gasser and removed them prior to selling and reinstalling them on my Duramax, night and day difference on these trucks...
 
Last edited:

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
3,964
8
38
36
Goodyear, AZ
Are the hd parts supposed to be better then the "problem solver"?

The Moog problem solver parts weren't designed to be used on an HD although they fit, they should be clearly labeled half ton and 3/4ton non HD they just don't hold up to the abuse we put out trucks through. But in my experience I can say the same about the HD parts as well, Moog is just junk now since they went to overseas manufacturers.
 

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
3,517
501
113
Central OH
Are the hd parts supposed to be better then the "problem solver"?

They better be, or my parts guy is laughing! We will see in the long run, only been installed for a couple years.

They were a little more expensive, but my local parts guy has rode in my truck before so there was no way he was selling me a cheap version of anything.
 

c20elephant

C20ELEPHANT
Apr 25, 2013
2,065
0
0
Phoenix, Arizona
So what do you recommend for pitman and idler arms if the moog ones are junk?

Rare parts idler, pitman, tie rods and read some good manufacturing about the Mevotech's Terrain Tough ball joints (Rockauto) out of Canada...


The cheap HD's with a lifetime warranty. Change em 10 times and don't cost shit.

You must have more time and patience than I do, lifetime warranty does not count when 2 non lifetime warranty sets should have lasted longer than the 10 lifetime warranty ball joints....:D
 
Last edited:

Teamvi

New member
Oct 26, 2011
333
0
0
so do you recommend stock center link or? hows the ppe centerlink and idler and pitman arms work on the street?
 

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
3,081
4
38
36
French Creek, West Virginia
Rare parts idler, pitman, tie rods and read some good manufacturing about the Mevotech's Terrain Tough ball joints (Rockauto) out of Canada...




You must have more time and patience than I do, lifetime warranty does not count when 2 non lifetime warranty sets should have lasted longer than the 10 lifetime warranty ball joints....:D

Oh I'm not running them, just sayin'. Now I have in the past and they last 30k sometimes and thy last 10k sometimes. I put the duralast pitman and idler arm in this time after fighting the moog shit. Pitman arm is still tight but idler shit out, new one is still great. Put a moog ball joint in, lasted 10k. Put a duralast in, good to go.

I'm leveled and drive rough roads so for my application it doesn't make a shit what you run. In the last 350k I've put on these 2500 HD's on a drilling rig, with larger tires and leveled I've never gotten over 60k out of a front end, I.e. Pitman and idlers and wheel bearings. Tie rods usually make it and lower ball joints. Upper ball joints usually last 30-75k.
 

NRA223

New member
May 20, 2015
288
0
0
so do you recommend stock center link or? hows the ppe centerlink and idler and pitman arms work on the street?

I can't say about the PPE because i never had it, but i'm glad i moved up to the Kryptonite Centerlink and rods. I'm sure it is comparable. With a stock centerline and Kryptonite sleeves, the truck was pulling hard left when doing 4wd launches on the street. With the full tie rods and centerline it launches straight.