Front end overhaul begins tomorrow morning

07keo02

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Oct 5, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
I typically don't give up either but I had two chisels wedged in there and hitting it with the slide hammer so hard it was coming off the ground every time. At least this way if it still doesn't come out the dealer can cut it for me and I can get a used one and do the re-install. Is the steering damper the only thing that has to move for the diff to go in and out? I was debating on going ahead and installing my steering link/tie rod ends but I figured it would be worth the extra space to wait for the diff to go up.
 

jlawles2

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Jan 28, 2010
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Danbury, TX
I had to remove the center link so the top tab on the diff could "slip" through the notch in the front cross member.

I have read somewhere that people have had problems getting the front diff apart. Bending and breaking flanges.
 

07keo02

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Oct 5, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
Well the dealer cant get it out so i asked about cutting it and they acted like they never heard of it so i had to the tell them about their own tsb. They of course want to sell me a reman diff.
 

07keo02

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Oct 5, 2011
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Dealer "doesn't have tool to cut it" so they were going to outsource for 450$ total. I told them I'd come and pick it up. Tomorrow I'm planning on getting drastic and innovative so we'll see what happens.
 

07keo02

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Oct 5, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
Well I just go that shaft out. I split the case and pulled out the vent plug. Then I spun the carrier assembly until I could see the bolt holding in the center pin. Loosened the bolt, let the pin drop in the deepest corner which gives just enough room to fit a large punch in from the other side and whack it out. For some reason it really gives from the other side. I really didn't have to hit it too terribly hard and it just came right out in about 10 hits. The c clip is destroyed of course but everything else looks pretty good. I'm going to go ahead and replace bearings and reassemble.
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
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Danbury, TX
When you look at the design, if you can get the spider shaft out, it must have allowed the retainer wire clip to slip out of the groove.

Between the dealer beating on it and you beating on it, somewhere along the way it broke and gave up.

Did it mess up the splines on the end of the half shaft??
 

07keo02

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Oct 5, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
It gave up when I split the case and worked the center pin out and gave it hell from the other side. This is the method that should be in the TSB, but I don't think many people know about it. I have only read it one time from tons of research. Fortunately, the shaft was just fine, the c clip just grenaded but I got a new one of those for a dollar fifty. When I put it back together I would like to try to do a write up with pictures on the process of loosening the bolt and working the center pin to the deepest corner to get this done. It worked amazingly well once we figured out the process of loosening the bolt, dropping the pin, then pushing and threading the bolt back in its hole so it will allow the carrier to spin again, then positioning the carrier so the pin can drop down into the deepest corner. It will not come out all of the way but it will give an open view of just over half of the back side of the stub shaft. Then we took a good size solid punch and beat it out with the five pound sledge. I think you misunderstood what I meant by splitting it and all. The gears never came out until I beat the short stub shaft out. I just removed the right side case and long stub shaft and when I dropped that pin out of the way you can actually get to it through the hole in the carrier assembly itself.
 
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07keo02

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Oct 5, 2011
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Phoenix, AZ
Diff is finally rebuilt and back in the truck. I will finish up the idler/pitman arms, rare parts tie rods and cognito support kit tomorrow. Thanks for any help.