Flexplate breakers
- Thread starter 2wd_Sled_Puller
- Start date
If you truely are doing it by the GM specs whos to say the bolt tq is why they are breaking? If you knew why they were breaking you would have solved it
You have made many posts that contradict (sp) eachother, so it is hard for many people to belive you. If you had posted the gm specs that you tqed it to befor others corrected you it would have been more beliveable. Not trying to flame you Kurt, just going by what I have read.
You have made many posts that contradict (sp) eachother, so it is hard for many people to belive you. If you had posted the gm specs that you tqed it to befor others corrected you it would have been more beliveable. Not trying to flame you Kurt, just going by what I have read.
You need to get ALL new parts, not a used POS flex plate and then put it in like Mike and everyone else says.
sure you're not torqueing the convertor bolts to 130 in lbs?
when was last time the wrenches were calibrated? or atleast double/triple checked?
what about Brandon, he's been over 700hp w/ his 2wd and put a lot of miles and races on it.
Low range puts more stress on all the parts after the t-case but less on the motor and trans while hi range does the opposite. I was talking about initially getting the sled moving being a bigger stress in 2H than it is in 4L. 4H is the biggest stress of all though.
2H will spin the tires much easier therefore causing less stress. If you can keep the tires spinning there is much less chance of breaking something. It's when it hooks that breakage takes place.
X2 to new bolts everytime . Ive reused before with no problems , but you should always replace . Also flex plate fly wheel bolts should be replaced with new after each use . Ive reused but you are having issues so replace everything with new bolts .
Also if you keep spitting out one bolt , there is something wrong with that hole on converter . Take it out . I dont think you are doing anything wrong but dicking around with not pulling the trans and changing that converter .
Then you can also see if you have a cracked flex at that time . A cracked flex could also be attributing to why it might be spitting out that bolt .
But I bet you cross threaded that hole in converter . Fix it .
This is dumb , pull the trans out and look and quit dicking with it .
Johnny
Bingo
I have run several 500-600hp motors in cars with stock rears on street tires and had them last a good while.
But on the other had I've blown several rears with a 400hp motor on slicks or sticky drag radials
Alot has to do with preloading the drivetrain as well. The stock rear in my car will last a long time in the 10s, but will only last a few passes in the 12s with a trans brake......your not doing neutral drops.....are you?
Rear ends are another thing we wont dicuss that topic
Not really, If you take the time to understand how one things breaks it can help you to understand how other things can break. Nothing is just one simple thing, you have to look at the big picture with an open mind
Everything breaks , you just keep it all up to par as best you can .
When the next piece gives up you fix it and move on .
Doubt this is the last thing Kurt will break .
Something else always gives up . Next weak link .
Drop the trans .
I want to see some pics of that bad hole on converter .
Bolts dont just come out like that unless that hole is crossed or elongated .
When the next piece gives up you fix it and move on .
Doubt this is the last thing Kurt will break .
Something else always gives up . Next weak link .
Drop the trans .
I want to see some pics of that bad hole on converter .
Bolts dont just come out like that unless that hole is crossed or elongated .
True that, Sometime vibration can do it, but if that were the case there would be a prob with all of them and not just one. One way or another something is bunged up with that hole or the bolts you are using.
Kurt you already have everything you need to permanently fix this problem in this thread.
Do the steps, do it right, make sure the dowel pins are in place, stop torquing 1/4" bolts to 130 ft lbs, and then I promise it wont break.
and I agree with mike that 2wd is less stressful, I dont see how anyone can argue otherwise.
ben
Do the steps, do it right, make sure the dowel pins are in place, stop torquing 1/4" bolts to 130 ft lbs, and then I promise it wont break.
and I agree with mike that 2wd is less stressful, I dont see how anyone can argue otherwise.
ben
My goodness. I think a standard grade 8 1/4" bolt only calls for around 30lbs. I would go by the GM specs but just trying to show how unreal 130 is
shown in ft./lbs.
Wow, even lower than I thought :rofl: I used to have one of those charts around here somewhere, but now adays anything that I use a tq wrench on is some kind of special fastener that has its own tq spec......very handy chart tho. And it goes to prove the point that most things get tqed to less than many people think.
shown in ft./lbs.
Thank you Mike.
You don't suprise me at all with your knowledge. I now expect it bro. :hug: