I prefer to use JIC spud fittings TIG welded to the factory steel line and push lock fittings and hose to make the rubber section. I've had it like that on my LBZ for 8 years and 140k miles with no leaks at all. It doesn't take that long to do either.Go with drp next time or have a hydraulic ship make you lines. They just use proer hose and fittings. Much more reliable than what fleece sells. I with with hydraulics for a living the proer hoses are great
I prefer to use JIC spud fittings TIG welded to the factory steel line and push lock fittings and hose to make the rubber section. I've had it like that on my LBZ for 8 years and 140k miles with no leaks at all. It doesn't take that long to do either.
Go with drp next time or have a hydraulic ship make you lines. They just use parker hose and fittings. Much more reliable than what fleece sells. I with with hydraulics for a living the parker hoses are great
I prefer factory steel hard lines that are bent to follow the contours of the motor and frame and line up perfectly to all connections, and the push lock hose and fittings are available at any Parker store for very little money if you do have a problem (but with 8 years and 140k+ miles, mine are still leak free).That works I guess, seems like more work that it's worth. Hydraulic hose is just so damn easy and problem free and pretty much serviceable anywhere that sells hydraulic lines, plus they are cheap. Hydraulic hose is always better than the factory steel pos hardlines any day of the week but that's just my personal opinion.
the steel hard lines are to beat with how tucked up and away they are from rubbing on things.
I went compression fittings on my hard lines to steel braided lines since my heat exchanger got moved to the driver side. 1 year and 10k miles on them with no leaks. just went over them 2 weeks ago too and nice and tight. Summit claims they were good to 300psi continuous when i called them as its their brand fittings and hose