My truck has been slowly leaking out of the rear of the drivers side head for about a year now, it looks like it is getting alot worse, looks like I have to bite the bullet and buy the studs and gaskets.
Finally need headgaskets!!
- Thread starter JustinD
- Start date
Anything I should know before taking on this job? We are gonna take the motor out to do it, I figured it was a good time to clean up the engine bay. I also want to replace the oil filter/cooler housing gaskets, thats where my headgasket is leaking, right above that filter housing. Anyone know the GM part # for that gasket?
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Gonna start tearing it apart today, it blew all the coolant out of the tank yesterday, can't complain, I put a VERY HARD 100k on it before they blew!!!!
Ready to pull the motor, just gotta get one of the fuel lines off, we didn't have the correct disconnect tool tonight.
From what I've read, you really need to have the block torque plate honed if you're going to switch to studs. This is just going off what I've read around.
When you put the motor back in, watch the fuel lines and the oil filter.... When I dropped the LBZ in my truck today, I didn't pay close enough attention to the fuel lines and they got under the oil filter and put a nice dent in it
. It was also kinda "fun" to get the transmission and motor mated up...
When you put the motor back in, watch the fuel lines and the oil filter.... When I dropped the LBZ in my truck today, I didn't pay close enough attention to the fuel lines and they got under the oil filter and put a nice dent in it
. It was also kinda "fun" to get the transmission and motor mated up...
I am in the exact same boat 120k on the motor and and leaking at the same point. I fyou want you can come out here and do mine too!:hug:
Is machining the heads a must? I don't want to cut corners but this job is already over budget and I would really like to get it buttoned up asap. I've heard both ways, don't worry about it just clean them up and go, and that I should def send them out to be checked and resurfaced? The truck never overheated or ran funny, just had a rock hard upper hose for about a year, and finally started puking coolant out of the tank when I got on it.
I would atleast have them checked , especially if they have been leaking for awhile . they may have some pitting . the hone part has been discussed many times .
Many including myself have not had the block torque honed without issue
My truck burns no oil whatsoever
My truck burns no oil whatsoever
hey justin, not sure how far you are from somers, ct but there is a great machine shop that will take great care of you for any work that you need
Thanks, I'll let you know, I was going to use a guy in New Bedford MA, my buddy just had a set of 6.0 PSD heads done, he said it was reasonable. Hey I guess James got ahold of you too on that LBZ? Thanks for your help.:thumb:
you can honestly check the heads your self with a straight edge and a feeler gage , the spec is on this site for the limmit of gap , i checked my own and they have been fine , also honing for studs is a good idea if you rebuilding then motor , but you will be just fine if you dont and i would never pull a whole block down just to add studs , good luck withe project she wil be good as new when your done ! I would def consider replacing the water pump while its out if you havent recently and def weld the gears to the pump shaft too .
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I'd think you should be fine. The LLYs (and federal LB7's, I think) didn't have the IAH from teh factory and have no problems. My LLY would start just fine in 0* weather....
my fed lb7 had the the IAH but i removed. Had absolutly no problems startin at 0 degrees or gettin up to temp