Finally bought my first turbo............

[Robby Avery]

I ran stock 340k mile up-pipes on my LLY when I had a Danville 68mm Stage 2R 4094 installed with 60% overs and a 10mm. I do not think you need up-pipes unless you've distorted the stock ones or they are leaking. IMO there isn't a huge performance gain on them until you really start pushing the envelope.


That said, it doesn't hurt to put in a quality replacement if yours are high mileage, showing cracks, or leaking. I don't think you'll benefit from getting larger manifolds.

alright so im getting down to the final wire just got a few more things to sort out before I install the turbo. im on the fence of what downpipe to go with I like the look of the ppe stainless 3in down pipe but don't like that I can see a weld near the v band flange on the turbo connection which to me is turbulence or flow restriction I may be over thinking this. what other companies out there make stainless 3 in lbz down pipes that are mandrel bent and smooth yet still retain the lower mount tab for the passenger side up-pipe flange .plus if I go with ppe cause no other stainless ones are mentioned how is the fitment of it ive heard horror stories and I will be removing the heat sleeve and dei titanium wrapping it cause it looks better than the sleeve to me. any and all options are welcome thanks:thumb:

 

[zakkb787]

Buy profab

 

[Robby Avery]

Buy profab

That's my second choice cause of no lower mounting tab on up pipe flange

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[zakkb787]

https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71957

Most of them even on stock trucks are cracked or broken. My lb7 wasn’t bolted. My truck now hasn’t had a support in who knows how long. The lbz I just pulled the head off yesterday was broke too. Most guys don’t run them from what I’ve seen. And if Rick doesn’t put them on his pipes, they’re not needed. He wouldn’t skimp on something if it was absolutely necessary.

 

[frankenstien]

^^^ all of what he said, I have had my profab downpipe on since 2012, 50k miles, no issues, profab is good stuff

 

[juddski88]

My opinion is that unless you still have a good front pipe hangar mounted to the side of the trans, you should run the downpipe flange bolted. I've seen cracked downpipes, broken flange clamps, all many times because of either of these supports being removed. The front pipe hangar is the most obtrusive and hard to fit in my opinion, and least-needed

 

[zakkb787]

My opinion is that unless you still have a good front pipe hangar mounted to the side of the trans, you should run the downpipe flange bolted. I've seen cracked downpipes, broken flange clamps, all many times because of either of these supports being removed. The front pipe hangar is the most obtrusive and hard to fit in my opinion, and least-needed

I suppose it should be noted, both my trucks have had Magnaflow 5” DP back the retains the factory mount on the trans. I could definitely see major issues if that was removed.

 

[PureHybrid]

My first one from Profab rusted out at the bottom flange. Went with a PPE stainless this time

 

[Robby Avery]

after doing some searching I found that dmax store offers a really nice piece very reasonable and since I want the profab tow flows it comes with a mounting tab that ties into the manifold to up-pipe bolts also its mandrel bend smooth no welds except the v band flanges so no turbulence on exhaust flow, plan is to swap out the driver side manifold for merchant auto max flow manifold then pro fab tow flows with egr riser just going to use current blocker plate not removing egr cooler and the dmax store 3in down pipe now all I have to do is wait on income tax time to do it all :thumb:

 

[Robby Avery]

Does anyone know what model Garrett charger this cover is off of thanks notice the patent number under Garrett
never seen that before thanks

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[Robby Avery]

TTt

 

[Robby Avery]

ttt