Finally bought my first turbo............
- Thread starter Robby Avery
- Start date
The factory LMM housing and factory LBZ housing have the same Aspect Ratio, but different stampings. The AR of each is stamped on the housings also, as it usually is on any of the VNT Garrett offerings. So you can check the housing you had against the housing I sold you to determine if Fleece used a factory Duramax housing or a larger option.
Thank you Tim for answering my questions. Now back to the machine work. Tim will I be ok to have the housing fixed or should I just send the whole turbo to fleece and be done with it?
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That's how it came and it was damaged looks like I'm going to build a super heavy duty crate I can bolt it into and keep it safe
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You're making a mountain out of nothing. Box the turbo up and ship it to fleece. They built the charger and wheel thus meaning they have the specs the cover needs to be machined to. A heavy duty cardboard box and some expanding foam bags and you're good to go. That has worked for tons of people without any issue. How do you know it didn't get damaged when the guy shipped it? I.E. they dropped it going into the box or before they put it into the box after the pictures are taken?
As for damage occurring during shipping it to someone/getting lost, that is the EXACT reason we have the option to buy insurance on shipped packages. This turbo is nothing "special" or "unobtainable", if it gets lost or damaged you can easily replace it with the money you would receive from a damaged/lost package claim.
As for damage occurring during shipping it to someone/getting lost, that is the EXACT reason we have the option to buy insurance on shipped packages. This turbo is nothing "special" or "unobtainable", if it gets lost or damaged you can easily replace it with the money you would receive from a damaged/lost package claim.
At this point Robby, i would try just fixing the dinged compressor cover. What do you have to loose??
id take an exhaust expanding tool that fits inside, expanded it till it has a little pressure and then start heating that cast part up hot with a decent torch. MAPP gas might get it but doubt it. once you think that thing is HOT, grab a wrench at start turning the expander by hand and see if it starts giving or if it just wont budge. if it bent and didnt crack, i see no reason some heat cant get it to come back without cracking. just heat the whole bent area well. If you crack it, well on to making the other cover work!
Hell even if it cracks and you get it back cylindrical, a good TIG welder and weld it back up, then its just a matter of some flag disc on the outside and a little die grinding with some barrels on the inside.
id take an exhaust expanding tool that fits inside, expanded it till it has a little pressure and then start heating that cast part up hot with a decent torch. MAPP gas might get it but doubt it. once you think that thing is HOT, grab a wrench at start turning the expander by hand and see if it starts giving or if it just wont budge. if it bent and didnt crack, i see no reason some heat cant get it to come back without cracking. just heat the whole bent area well. If you crack it, well on to making the other cover work!
Hell even if it cracks and you get it back cylindrical, a good TIG welder and weld it back up, then its just a matter of some flag disc on the outside and a little die grinding with some barrels on the inside.
bdsankey the turbo may not be special to you but it is to me I waited along time to save up and purchase one life happened and I finally got my dream turbo just like everybody out there has there dream turbo and or build. james thanks for the honest answers and solutions mentioned I really appreciate it. im probably going to wait til tax return time build a shipping crate and ship it to fleece. I figure while its there they can once over it and repair or replace anything that's needed :thumb:
It'll cost you probably $100-$120 round trip shipping to and from Fleece. What I'm getting at is it's a turbo, it'll be fine in a shipping box with proper packaging. Turbos ship every single day in the same packaging. It's not fine china or something extremely fragile, its metal. It is your money and your turbo but I think you're being a little too cautious is all.
On another note, the large VGTs aren't known for drivability especially as singles. Mark @ Danville doesn't recommend his 72mm as a single last I talked to him.
I’ve shipped a couple turbos just in cardboard with expanding foam. Worked well and inexpensive.
But I had a Danville 72vgt single on my old truck with 60% overs for a while and had zero drivability issues. Just a hair laggy at elevation (7k) but definitely manageable with smart driving. Also had a BT lockup box so was nice to unlock the converter on uphill grades
But I had a Danville 72vgt single on my old truck with 60% overs for a while and had zero drivability issues. Just a hair laggy at elevation (7k) but definitely manageable with smart driving. Also had a BT lockup box so was nice to unlock the converter on uphill grades
Go buy a double strength cardboard box of appropriate size, and use the foam packets (or go to a UPS Store and have them pack it using their expanding foam tool). If you're worried about it still busting thru the base, bolt it to a piece of plywood as large as the box bottom.
Also....ALWAYS print an extra shipping label and put it inside the box, just on case something happens during shipping.
Also....ALWAYS print an extra shipping label and put it inside the box, just on case something happens during shipping.
Bdsankey Trust me I understand your point the reason I'm being so cautious is in the past I've had turbos stolen out from under my carport that were hidden mind you as well as had stuff lost in shipping and honestly I maybe a little to cautious as you mentioned but this literally is my first aftermarket high performance turbo I've waited 13 years for. I take pride in my work and things that I am able to do you know thats all. Just like anyone else would do I hope. Thank you for the shipping quote I really appreciate it.
The bac as well thank you for the shipping suggestions I'm guessing the label inside the package helps return a lost item to the correct owner if lost in shipping? would it hurt to maybe have one printed to stick on the turbo as well a smaller shipping label?
And yes I will be stock fuel twin cp3s for now till 100% over s and s or exergy injectors are in the budget
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I wish I could say that the housing I sent you could definitely be fixed, but as I said earlier, compressor wheel to housing clearance is pretty crucial to the performance and reliability of the turbo. In my opinion, worst case is they turned it too loose and you'll have a little too much clearance towards the tip of the wheel, which is only going to hurt performance, not reliability.
I think James' suggestion is a good one if you feel decently comfortable moving metal. It takes patience and finesse and a little common sense. You said you're a tech, so I think a bit of YouTube research on the subject of heating and moving cast aluminum would go a long way in saving you more money.
Thank you Tim for all your help I'm indebted to you and all who have helped me here I'm still learning and want to do stuff right is all. I'll try those mentioned methods I talked about some in earlier post just wasn't sure which way to go about it. Reshaping it shouldnt be to hard I hope I'll try it at least but I have a pretty good feeling I'll send it to fleece.
I have one final question im going to put a turbo blanket on the turbine housing when I'm done should I cast blast to protect and prevent it further rusting or just leave it as is and just put the blanket on it I know the cast blast will burn off eventually just curious
Again thanks to all who have helped me here
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if you live in a real salty/wet area, i dont think anything will prevent the rust under a blanket. its going to trap moisture/salt and eat up the housing no matter what you do. i
Rob, just put the label in the box like a packing slip. It's just in case something mars the original.
James I live in a humid part of the states the lower southwest corner of ga we mainly have rain high humidity and clay dirt roads no salt here nor snow
The bac thank you for the insight on shipping the correct way to protect my investment
The reason I asked about cast blast is all the factory turbos I've put on have what looks to be a dark black or blue cast blast that seems to hold up pretty well over time just curious was all.
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The bac thank you for the insight on shipping the correct way to protect my investment
The reason I asked about cast blast is all the factory turbos I've put on have what looks to be a dark black or blue cast blast that seems to hold up pretty well over time just curious was all.
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alright so bringing this back up. im curious at what power level are up-graded up-pipes needed? when I swap in the cheetah after getting it back from fleece, should I go with pro fab tow flows or ppe stock oem up graded ones reason I ask is I want to make sure the 3in ppe stainless down pipe will clear either ones anyone that has tried this please let me know thanks:thumb:
I ran stock 340k mile up-pipes on my LLY when I had a Danville 68mm Stage 2R 4094 installed with 60% overs and a 10mm. I do not think you need up-pipes unless you've distorted the stock ones or they are leaking. IMO there isn't a huge performance gain on them until you really start pushing the envelope.
That said, it doesn't hurt to put in a quality replacement if yours are high mileage, showing cracks, or leaking. I don't think you'll benefit from getting larger manifolds.
That said, it doesn't hurt to put in a quality replacement if yours are high mileage, showing cracks, or leaking. I don't think you'll benefit from getting larger manifolds.
78,xxx original miles I put on it had it since new no leaks or crackes just wanted to know if they needed to be upgraded thanks bdsankey:thumb: