What is the build date?
I'll have to check on that, is it stamped somewhere? Glove box or something?I don't have the paper tag on the head anymore. I can get the block serial number though. Iirc it was like 726,000.
What is the build date?
I'll have to check on that, is it stamped somewhere? Glove box or something?I don't have the paper tag on the head anymore. I can get the block serial number though. Iirc it was like 726,000.
open drivers door, look for sticker on the door edge just below the mechanical latch. should have mfg date: 02/06 or 12/05 or something to that affect on it. thats your build date.
You could have wagler or dhd pin it if they are willing to.Ok, so should I get the correct one or can you do something to stop that from happening and still use the right handed thread?
As mentioned, You can have it pinned if either company will do it or you can do it your self if you are capable.Ok, so should I get the correct one or can you do something to stop that from happening and still use the right handed thread?
So the nut won't back off for any reason? That's what I've heard is a issue!You certainly can run the pump, it just is not what GM designed for that engine. The difference is early pumps were RH thread, later pumps were LH thread starting with the LBZ engines. The oil output volume remained the same 01-10. Regardless of LH or RH thread I would pin the pump and shim the relief. Pinning in my opinion removes the main selling point of the LBZ/LMM pumps.
The drive gear on the oil pump can spin on the shaft. This is the reason for pinning the shaft. If you eliminate the gears ability to spin, you prevent the ability for the nut to back off.So the nut won't back off for any reason? That's what I've heard is a issue!