Experimenting with a better way to seal "Return Lines"

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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The factory seals have a sort of rubber-like coating on them already.
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
This is effing ridiculous! Got the other 4 injectors replaced, didn't have time to do the seal modification o wanted to do done so I used the brand new seals for the return lines on both sides and guess what.... 30 miles later and I'm full of fuel in the oil and 20 psi of oil pressure at highway speeds. I'm about to let coast from the top of the hill off a cliff I'm so pissed off right now!
Any ideas??
No cracks in either of the return lines, brand new return line seals on both sides.... Brand new injectors.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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.......and you torqued the fittings to what??? You are 100% sure the return lines arent cracked? You tested them how? You were definitely a candidate to use that pressurization testing tool before buttoning the motor up and you didnt do it.

"Didnt have time" is usually associated with problems later, as you've just proved.
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
.......and you torqued the fittings to what??? You are 100% sure the return lines arent cracked? You tested them how? You were definitely a candidate to use that pressurization testing tool before buttoning the motor up and you didnt do it.

"Didnt have time" is usually associated with problems later, as you've just proved.

15 lbs/ft
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
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Jul 2, 2007
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Well I guess you gotta open it up and run it and see if they are leaking again or still.
Have you checked balance rates recently to see if you haven't got a hung injector?
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,712
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Texas!!!
The torque spec on the return line banjo bolts is 12 ft lbs, FYI.

Pull off the valve covers and run the engine at full rail pressure. I bet you have a cracked injector body or a leaking high pressure fuel line.
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
Thats one nice thing I can do now.... Command rail pressure.... Before it wouldn't change no matter what I did. I'm gonna get some sleep, clear my mind, and start pulling it back apart tomorrow. Hopefully my prayers tonight will get answered.....
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
Ok... So I poured some fuel dye into the fuel filter and spun her back on... Started it up and within seconds found dye coming out of the front two injectors around the return line on both top and bottom seals... The back two looked clean... No dye.
I have had enough with these seals... Perhaps the ones I am getting are crap and do not have enough coating on them to properly seal but this is twice now with brand new return seals.... I am going to try giving them a little more torque to see if it shuts the flow off but I think I may just go ahaead and try the modification to the return line that I have been wanting to do all along.
I feel a ton better today after sleeping my anger/frustration off... I had to remind myself that now I have an engine with 8 good injectors and a new LBZ pump that fires right up instead of having to shoot butane into it every time I started it and that this is a minor problem that causes a big headache... Just need to fix it and be done. :thumb:
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
Also, no hung injector.... Balance rates are good! I am hoping that this fixes it... When I commanded max rail you should have seen it pouring out! I have not tore apart the passenger side so I think what I am going to do is get this fixed and then just let it idle to see if any of the dye starts working into the engine oil again... This way I wont have to tear down the passenger side unless needed.
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
Well... So far she has been idling for 10 minutes now.... Oil pressure doesnt seem to be dropping at all.... I dont see any dye in the oil.... Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
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Jul 2, 2007
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Well... So far she has been idling for 10 minutes now.... Oil pressure doesnt seem to be dropping at all.... I dont see any dye in the oil.... Keeping my fingers crossed.

This with just tightening them up?
Hope it holds for ya!
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
Yeah, had to go to 19 lb/ft to get them to stop... It makes me think my theory is right about them being crap seals and they dont have enough coating on them to seal up under the proper amount of torque.
So I idled it for over an hour, took it on a short trip, and got on it a few times.... Fuel gauge hasnt moved, oil pressure continues to hold at 37 PSI (idle) 62 PSI (1800 RPM), and the oil color/level hasnt changed a bit... Dare I say it... I think it may be fixed!! :woott:
Another thing, no more smoky idle, no more fuel ping, no more injectables to get it started and it seems so much smoother/quieter now!!!
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
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Jul 2, 2007
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You are one of the very few to say they have had persistent problems with getting new seals to work. I have my doubts though the seals were to blame. Torquing small bolts like that takes a really good feel or a really good torque wrench-preferably in my experience a 1/4" drive one. In the past I have generally just done it freestyle by feel.
Hope she holds for ya!
 

TonOfDalt

More is better!!!!
Aug 9, 2012
153
1
0
42
Spoke Valley, WA.
You are one of the very few to say they have had persistent problems with getting new seals to work. I have my doubts though the seals were to blame. Torquing small bolts like that takes a really good feel or a really good torque wrench-preferably in my experience a 1/4" drive one. In the past I have generally just done it freestyle by feel.
Hope she holds for ya!

When I saw the torque rating I grabbed the torque wrench... I have big hands and strong fore-arms and I tend to over-tighten small items such as those. I didnt want to break something so I went for the correct tool. I have 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" Snap-On torque wrenches and I have them calibrated regulary so I am fairly confident they are accurate. (Better be for how much I paid for them, LOL!) Maybe it was because they where old seals and had saturated in oil/fuel but the coating on the old seals felt "softer" than the new seals. When comparing the two, it felt like there wasnt a coating at all on the new ones.
Again, just happy that its holding and my truck runs like it should now! Now I can move on to upgrades and helping others new to the forum!
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,610
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Mid Michigan
Hmmm...never had an issue with return line seals at OEM torque. It is what it is, I guess. Sometimes its a PITA finding the cause for a problem. Glad you got your truck fixed.