Engine Stand's and mounting options for a Duramax build

1FastBrick

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I'd probably have something like this too if I didn't stumble across that OTC for $450.
The cheapest used one I can find near me is $1100... LOL
Given this one looks like it was stored out side, I would rather purchase a new one for the price difference...
 

1FastBrick

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Honestly? I've seen worse ideas.
It's not a bad idea, However I only posted the image for the Idea. The Execution and how it turned out are what make it crude...


It's the 4th post in this thread. I get it when you have a flux core and only so much to work with, But the way he scabbed some of it together, I do not agree with.

Any way, I remember when those orange stands were only $40 at harbor freight. I happen to have 2 left sitting in pile out back. I got sick of how sloppy they were and I finally bought a geared sunnex style engine stand.
 

Bdsankey

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It's not a bad idea, However I only posted the image for the Idea. The Execution and how it turned out are what make it crude...


It's the 4th post in this thread. I get it when you have a flux core and only so much to work with, But the way he scabbed some of it together, I do not agree with.
I have the 6.0L mounts that Norco makes, very nice pieces. It's a pricey stand and we don't use it anywhere near as much as we should but god damn is it nice as hell.


Any way, I remember when those orange stands were only $40 at harbor freight. I happen to have 2 left sitting in pile out back. I got sick of how sloppy they were and I finally bought a geared sunnex style engine stand.
That's what I use for transmissions is a geared style. It's so much easier than messing with spinning it manually.

I'm about to grab a new HF Daytona version and give it a shot as the gearbox on mine is getting worn out. I really should pull it apart and see where the failure is. It feels like one of the gears may or may not be having a real bad time in there as it's got a real nice clunk.
 
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1FastBrick

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I have the 6.0L mounts that Norco makes, very nice pieces. It's a pricey stand and we don't use it anywhere near as much as we should but god damn is it nice as hell.



That's what I use for transmissions is a geared style. It's so much easier than messing with spinning it manually.

I'm about to grab a new HF Daytona version and give it a shot as the gearbox on mine is getting worn out. I really should pull it apart and see where the failure is. It feels like one of the gears may or may not be having a real bad time in there as it's got a real nice clunk.
You know you can get parts for the sunnex geared one to repair it right???swimming. If yours is the sunnex or sunnex style. The resale in other colors and brands...
It could be the gear needs shimming.
 

Bdsankey

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You know you can get parts for the sunnex geared one to repair it right???swimming. If yours is the sunnex or sunnex style. The resale in other colors and brands...
It could be the gear needs shimming.
It's an older Jegs unit. I'll have to pull the cover and take a look. It still works so I haven't really messed with it. I will tho, I didn't realize they were rebuildable. It was $289.99 when I ordered it in July 2020.

 

1FastBrick

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So I followed suit and cut up 2 old harbor freight engine stands I had laying around. It's not finished, but I needed to move the engine so I could mount the rear plate and the upper oil pan to seal it up.

I made new thicker head stock plates. Also not finished. I will cut the tubes down later. I wasn't sure if I was going to try a slack adjuster or a gear drive set up so I left them long. They do have holes for pins to hold it in place on either side.

As it is, I will probably cut the bottom tube in the middle and make a sleeve so it can bolt together.

Any way I probably have around $200 or so in it with the new material I bought. The new head plates and motor mount pads I traded labor for having them cut.

Sorry I was drained at the end of the day and didn't get pictures of the rear adaptor or the oil pans installed.

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I did cut the side plates down so they werent as long. I can rotate it and it will stay in position for the most part so it's fairly balanced. It's also tall enough for the engine stand to roll under it.

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1FastBrick

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I got most of it but the rear mounting plate and the oil pan were hanging me up. I didn't want to try mounting them while it was hanging from a hoist.

I have seen them mounted to a stand on the rear plate before but I was told that it shouldn't be done this way.
 

malibu795

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I got most of it but the rear mounting plate and the oil pan were hanging me up. I didn't want to try mounting them while it was hanging from a hoist.

I have seen them mounted to a stand on the rear plate before but I was told that it shouldn't be done this way.
I do the rear plate on the hoist, run all the bolts down, then mount the spider on the rear plate the flip everything upside down mount the oil pans

I also bought a 2nd spider head, one is set for the std GM bolt pattern other is set for the block mounts, makes swapping things quick and easy,
 

1FastBrick

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I do the rear plate on the hoist, run all the bolts down, then mount the spider on the rear plate the flip everything upside down mount the oil pans

I also bought a 2nd spider head, one is set for the std GM bolt pattern other is set for the block mounts, makes swapping things quick and easy,
The spider head being the engine stand mounting plate?