Electric water pump

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Does anyone make a water pump thats close to 2.5 inch, so I can mount it right before the stock pump? I'm not decided If I'm even gonna keep the heater pr not. So I only need the big lines and the overflow.

 

[moparkxracer]

I have one, I'm not using. I'll dig it out to see what the fittings are. I went back to a oem style.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Stewart Warner ones are pretty small

 

[moparkxracer]

That's who makes the one I have.

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

summit says there 1.25 and 1.75?

 

[JD Dave]

They don't flow enough coolant. Hook one up and put your hand over the end of the hose. My head problems went away after I got rid of the Stewart pump. Jmo

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

They don't flow enough coolant. Hook one up and put your hand over the end of the hose. My head problems went away after I got rid of the Stewart pump. Jmo

What do you run? Luckily I've never broke my stock lbz pump. But I'm gonna fill the block next year, so maybe then the electric will be fine. I was gonna this year but I don't think I'll like the room with the uppipes there.


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[JD Dave]

I run a stock pump. I don't know what electric to run but not a Stewart Warner. You have a lot of money sitting there to cheap out on a pump.

 

[moparkxracer]

I'd stay with a stock style that has been keyed.

 

[CaptPhil]

Has anyone ever tried a belt driven water pump? Like a marine raw water cooling pump? Rubber impellar so completely serviceable, they move a TON of water (probably too much), and can handle as many rpm as you can spin (I have spun mine for 6000rpm for 10 minutes straight on a few occassions).

I think there might be an issue with pressure, as they can make some wicked water pressure, but in a closed loop system with an adequate surge tank i dont think that would really present itself. Also not sure how the nitrile impellar would handle 200+F water temps for long.

 

[JD Dave]

Why reinvent the wheel when a stock water pump works great and moves a lot of water. Best choice is solid heads and block for a competition only truck.

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Why reinvent the wheel when a stock water pump works great and moves a lot of water. Best choice is solid heads and block for a competition only truck.

Because I will continue to run a wet head as far as the plan is now. Which then a stock pump won't work. I guess I'll just stick with the stock pump this year. It has not been keyed ever. Think Danville has keyed pumps?


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[RPM Motorsports]

Don't do it, save yourself the headache! I ran a filled block and two electric CVR pumps. In through the back out from the front, still killed the heads between the exhaust ports. Guy told me I would, but I wanted to try it out. Luckily we've only ran stock LBZ heads up until this year, so in the garbage they went. I figured one pump per head would be plenty.

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[TheBac]

Ben, do you remember Guy's thread about electric pumps from a couple years ago? You even posted in it. He didnt recommend using electric pumps.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50822&highlight=electric+pump

Guys,

I've been meaning to talk about this for a while, it just seems that 24 hours in a day isn't long enough to get everything done, I want to get done.

Unfortunately that means my participation on the forums isn't as frequent as it used to be.

Let’s talk electric water pumps:

I have noticed more and more racers killing cylinder heads due to their use of electric water pumps. This phenomenon started a few years ago, and it took a little while for me to wrap my head around what was actually happening, then a little longer to prove my hypothesis.

Basically, the electric water pumps don’t flow enough volume to keep the cylinder heads cool. Now you may look at the advertised flow rates and argue that the manufacturer claims their pump moves 50 or so gpm. What they are not telling you, is that is a free flow rate. As soon as you ask that pump to push fluid through a restriction (like a block or cylinder head etc) the flow drops by approx. two thirds. Mechanical pumps don’t drop off near as much under the same circumstances.

The water temp gauge is showing the average coolant temp of water exiting the engine. With the reduced flow of the electric pump, we see localized hot spots in the cylinder head that are not reflected on the temp gauge. The most common occurrence is in the area between the two exhaust seats. This area gets extremely hot during a sled pull or drag race and if there is not enough coolant flow to remove the heat fast enough, the coolant temp in that area begins to rise faster than other areas of the cylinder head, as it rises, the pressure in that area also increases. As with all fluids, the tendency is to flow from high pressure areas to low pressure areas. As the temp and pressure increase in that hot spot, the coolant flow decreases or stops, as the fluid finds lower pressure areas to flow to.

The net result is that the aluminum begins to lose heat treat in that area, as the material softens, the exhaust seat gets pounded into the casting and loses concentricity to the valve guide, resulting in loss of seal between the exhaust seat and valve and eventually a loss of compression in those cylinders. In other cases, the localized overheating also causes an otherwise stable cylinder head to crack, usually in the exhaust ports.

Cast iron heads wont lose heat treat, they just crack.

Cylinder heads that have experienced this phenomenon will show perfectly acceptable hardness numbers everywhere except around the exhaust seats.

I had one customer that was convinced his dual electric water pumps were more than adequate. I asked him to perform a simple experiment: Remove the thermostats from a truck with a stock mechanical pump and also disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator and aim it over the top of the radiator and out the front of the truck. Start the truck and run it up to about 3,000-3,500 and observe how far the fluid is expelled from the truck. Perform the same experiment on his race truck with the electric water pumps. The difference in flow was astounding.

Our new engine dyno is outfitted with digital flow meters for coolant, oil, and fuel. Once we finish the dyno installation, I will publish the flow numbers of all of the commercially available electric pumps vs mechanical pumps, as installed on a Dmax engine. For now, I recommend higher HP racers use a mechanical pump if at all possible.

We have options available for stock location and remote mounted mechanical pumps as do others I'm sure.

Guy

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Thanks Tom for bumping that up! I didn't see that thread when I recently searched for e pumps!


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[TheBac]

Glad to help.

 

[JD Dave]

Fill your block and your heads and forget about the pump.

 

[ikeG]

Bumping this up.

Is it possible to run these trucks with filled engines(block and heads) in the pits to weigh, tech, etc and not have to tow with a utv or whatever? Just start and move, shut back off. Start, pull, get off the track quick and shut back down. Looking for anyone with experience on this.