Elec draw

whitetrash21

put on da damn helmet day
Apr 29, 2008
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Is it possibly for an amp to create so much draw that it makes the lights dim inside the cab as well as the headlights?? I didn't think would be an issue running two batteries like we do but....???

I unplugged the amp, it goes away. Once its hooked up and runnin though, everything dims with the bass.

Anyone else have this problem?? What did you do to fix it??
 

LBZ

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Jul 2, 2007
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Yup!! Install a stiffening cap if you haven't already. Or if you have, maybe you need a bigger one.
If you have one, check your grounds and power connections. If these are loose they can cause your current draw to increase and voltage to drop.
 

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PhilsLB7

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Yup!! Install a stiffening cap if you haven't already. Or if you have, maybe you need a bigger one.
If you have one, check your grounds and power connections. If these are loose they can cause your current draw to increase and voltage to drop.

x2 - A 1 Farad cap will cover up to 1000watts. If you go bigger than a 1 Farad cap it will just be more reserve. Also, you can hook up the cap to cover all your amps but your sub amp is what pulls so much so you really only need to connect it to that one. Good luck!:)
 

MadMaxx61

Devilmaxx
Oct 13, 2008
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I would say don't go with anything less then a 1. Farad as I did that once and a few weeks after I "broke in" the subs I needed more as I pushed the amps harder.

Like what gotdesl said 1,000watt = about 1 Farad, If $$ is right I like 1.5 Farad per 1,000 watt RMS

I don't know what you are running for amps in power "True RMS" not peak. But it is not a bad reff to use the peak numbers so you have room to grow.

I run 2 1000watt RMS D-Class amps and if I don't have them cranked (I like clear bass not stupid loud) I don't have any dimming but I also have twin alts in my truck so thaty could be why. I looked at running a BatCap but for now I don't crank them up to much so not a big need for a cap.

http://www.batcap.net/

http://www.kaptionaudio.com/accessories.htm They make super nice stuff and I have ran a few full setups from them the 3.0 Farad cap is what I tell people to get as I said room to grow.

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/search.aspx?delineateQuery=capacitor Has a few nice ones but they don't make a 1.5F but a 1.2F

Alpine is in the making of bringing one to market but who knows what it will be out I have seen it and played with one but it was still a prototype at the time.

http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/accessories/capacitors/ They also make good ones but are only 1.0F
 

whitetrash21

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Thanks guys. Looked up some capacitors, seems to be around a $250 for a halfway decent 1 Farad cap??? that sound right??

The sub will rms 1800, peak is 3000. Amp rms is 1200, don't know what peak is but I don't use it anywhere near its full capacity. Can't stand eardrum poppin bass. A 1 Farad cap handle that or is bigger needed?? Not planning on upgrading except for maybe some component or door speakers.... sub already has more juice than I need.

Anything cheaper than 250 that will do the job?? Saw the 3.0 and 1.0 listed in this link http://www.kaptionaudio.com/accessories.htm that you put up madamxx but no prices. Any idea on cost.

Thanks again
 

PhilsLB7

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Jun 29, 2009
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Thanks guys. Looked up some capacitors, seems to be around a $250 for a halfway decent 1 Farad cap??? that sound right??

The sub will rms 1800, peak is 3000. Amp rms is 1200, don't know what peak is but I don't use it anywhere near its full capacity. Can't stand eardrum poppin bass. A 1 Farad cap handle that or is bigger needed?? Not planning on upgrading except for maybe some component or door speakers.... sub already has more juice than I need.

Anything cheaper than 250 that will do the job?? Saw the 3.0 and 1.0 listed in this link http://www.kaptionaudio.com/accessories.htm that you put up madamxx but no prices. Any idea on cost.

Thanks again

If I were running a 1200 watt RMS amp, I wouldn't use anything less than a 2 Farad cap. As Steve said, you want to have some room just in case your amp pushes beyond the 1200 watts. IMO $250 for a 1 Farad cap seems a little high to me. Take a look at the ones on Crutchfield.com. There is a nice 2 Farad cap from Tsunami on there for $150 and a 5 Farad for $200. If you would like a contact person at Crutchfield, PM me. I have a friend that works there. I don't get anything by referring you to him but he knows his stuff and can send you in the right direction. These caps are super easy to install but let us know if you need any other help.
 

paint94979

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Sep 18, 2006
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Yup!! Install a stiffening cap if you haven't already. Or if you have, maybe you need a bigger one.
If you have one, check your grounds and power connections. If these are loose they can cause your current draw to increase and voltage to drop.

you damn Canucks and your sound systems... my stock Bose system is nice:spit::D
 

MMLMM

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Mar 2, 2008
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www.dyncal.com
Wes a 1 cap will prolly be golden. I wouoldnt bet the draw on the 2 batts is much, just enough to make you notice the dimming. Is that sub you are running really pulling the full amount the amp can push.....
 

whitetrash21

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Apr 29, 2008
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If I were running a 1200 watt RMS amp, I wouldn't use anything less than a 2 Farad cap. As Steve said, you want to have some room just in case your amp pushes beyond the 1200 watts. IMO $250 for a 1 Farad cap seems a little high to me. Take a look at the ones on Crutchfield.com. There is a nice 2 Farad cap from Tsunami on there for $150 and a 5 Farad for $200. If you would like a contact person at Crutchfield, PM me. I have a friend that works there. I don't get anything by referring you to him but he knows his stuff and can send you in the right direction. These caps are super easy to install but let us know if you need any other help.

cool. thx. may take you up on that.

Wes a 1 cap will prolly be golden. I wouoldnt bet the draw on the 2 batts is much, just enough to make you notice the dimming. Is that sub you are running really pulling the full amount the amp can push??.....


I highly doubt it. Sub is overkill for that amp, but I don't use either to their full capacity anyway. However, what it is pulling is definately enough to notice all the interior lights and headlamps dimming with the the music though.....

Checked all the grounds, good metal to metal contact. Same with the power leads. Nothing loose that I can find.
 

LBZ

Super Moderator
Staff member
Jul 2, 2007
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Thanks guys. Looked up some capacitors, seems to be around a $250 for a halfway decent 1 Farad cap??? that sound right??

The sub will rms 1800, peak is 3000. Amp rms is 1200, don't know what peak is but I don't use it anywhere near its full capacity. Can't stand eardrum poppin bass. A 1 Farad cap handle that or is bigger needed?? Not planning on upgrading except for maybe some component or door speakers.... sub already has more juice than I need.

Anything cheaper than 250 that will do the job?? Saw the 3.0 and 1.0 listed in this link http://www.kaptionaudio.com/accessories.htm that you put up madamxx but no prices. Any idea on cost.

Thanks again

PUSSY!!:rofl:
 

whitetrash21

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PUSSY!!:rofl:

lol..... Didn't say nothing about volume.... I love loud music, clear loud music. Just not that boom boom bang pop pow shit that all the ricers with their rap music adore so much. Makes me wanna stomp a hole through their backseat speaker boxes everytime I hear it.

Next up is a set of components, amp and a head unit to crank some seriously LOUD tunes.... :D
 

KEVINL

Well-known member
Jul 4, 2008
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Damn I have a 600W class D mono and it is plenty I think my box could be better though little small for 2 12"s I think

After 4 years my stock speakers are shot I want to go with a nice component set for the front I also have a 75x4 Alpine amp I have had for a while which would make it sound alot better
 

Dozerboy

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Jun 23, 2009
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Checked all the grounds, good metal to metal contact. Same with the power leads. Nothing loose that I can find.

You need to check your battery connections ans the resistance from your battery to your amp both -/+. Caps for dimming lights are a band aid IMO. You either have a wiring problem or your alternator it too small. You dimming might go away just by upgrading the power, ground, and alt leads to the batteries.
 
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MadMaxx61

Devilmaxx
Oct 13, 2008
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Thanks guys. Looked up some capacitors, seems to be around a $250 for a halfway decent 1 Farad cap??? that sound right??

The sub will rms 1800, peak is 3000. Amp rms is 1200, don't know what peak is but I don't use it anywhere near its full capacity. Can't stand eardrum poppin bass. A 1 Farad cap handle that or is bigger needed?? Not planning on upgrading except for maybe some component or door speakers.... sub already has more juice than I need.

Anything cheaper than 250 that will do the job?? Saw the 3.0 and 1.0 listed in this link http://www.kaptionaudio.com/accessories.htm that you put up madmaxx but no prices. Any idea on cost.

Thanks again


Kaption Audio is somewhat new to the USA so it might be hard to find there. The last time I bought any thing from them the price was good. I would call them and ask them where and how much for more info.

I would also say that 1.0F may be good since you have two bats. But I cant say for sure. I like to play on the "safe" side of things when it comes to killer sound.

you damn Canucks and your sound systems... my stock Bose system is nice:spit::D

This is nothing lol been there done that now I like it to be clear and loud not just bass.

You need to check your battery connections ans the resistance from your battery to your amp both -/+. Caps for dimming lights are a band aid IMO. You either have a wiring problem or your alternator it too small. You dimming might go away just by upgrading the power, ground, and alt leads to the batteries.


Not always but yes that can be part of it I like to run "00" gauge for power and a min of "0" gauge for ground for anything over 1500 watts so that there is no way it is not getting the flow it needs.

In my old 95 3500 I had at one point 5 amps and 4 subs and 4 speakers+twets I ran "00" for power and ground and yes it was still not getting what I needed for flow so I put in a 1.0F cap was not good still went to a 3.0F cap still dimming ended up with a BatCap Model 400 and that stoped the dimming of the lights.
 

whitetrash21

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Apr 29, 2008
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You need to check your battery connections ans the resistance from your battery to your amp both -/+. Caps for dimming lights are a band aid IMO. You either have a wiring problem or your alternator it too small. You dimming might go away just by upgrading the power, ground, and alt leads to the batteries.

What size are factory leads from alt to batt??? Im running 0 ga for both ground and power to the amp.

I would also say that 1.0F may be good since you have two bats. But I cant say for sure. I like to play on the "safe" side of things when it comes to killer sound.

Not always but yes that can be part of it I like to run "00" gauge for power and a min of "0" gauge for ground for anything over 1500 watts so that there is no way it is not getting the flow it needs.

Im assuming 00 is bigger than 0 gauge?? Biggest I've ever seen is 0.....
 

PhilsLB7

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Jun 29, 2009
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I agree that you should check your wire leads from alternator to batteries just to be sure there are no problems with them (loose wires, corroded wires, etc). However, I disagree that you are putting a band aid on the issue. Our factory alternators have some reserve past what is required to make the truck run and function but is probably not enough to run the truck and the large amp you have (thus the dimming lights). Keep in mind that a cap stores power until it is needed. When used with sub amps, the amp will pull a large amount of power from the cap instead of the truck batteries which are already trying to keep up with all the other electronics in the truck. I have always had a cap in every system I have put in my trucks and it has never been a bad decision.

P.S. I like the motto "If it's too loud, you're too old." So crank it up! :)
 
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MadMaxx61

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Oct 13, 2008
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Just a bit of info


gauge-chart.jpg


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-k2s3o9t8PYU/tech/kb69.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge