Duraflite?
- Thread starter BSdiesel472
- Start date
Not gonna waste the money on two separate trannys. Was already told the Duraflite is the way to go
The biggest problem with the duraflite mechanically is that you will replace convertor. They do not hold up. Either way you go you will pull the tranny and work on it. Only reason you won't will be that you just don't run it all out. I have a quote for a duraflite myself. It is expensive to say the least. Pm me with a contact and I will talk with you about what I know and don't know.
Can you build a 1500 HP capable dodge tranny? If so then you can build a duraflite to handle 1500HP. If you can't build one, then you have to purchase one. You'll need;
Transmission
PCS controller or full manual VB
Suncoast adapter kit
converter built for a duraflite (mix of dodge and GM)
Tuning and mechanical knowledge needed.
Transmission
PCS controller or full manual VB
Suncoast adapter kit
converter built for a duraflite (mix of dodge and GM)
Tuning and mechanical knowledge needed.
Thank you rob! For being the only person to actually answer my question lol. And s phinney PM sent
The only shaft that is different is the output shaft, if your using a GM type transfer case, but all the clutches and bands are the same. Sun coast kit has an adapter plate for the bell housing, t-case, shift cable, and maybe a trans mount adapter. You have to use a GM type solenoids in the valve body. The guy I helped put one in a ECSB LBZ got away with the factory driveshafts as far as length goes. On his 4wd, the bell housing adapter piece and the side of the trans where the pan bolts on had to be ground down a little for clearance of the front driveshaft. Thats all I remember mechanically or figment wise on the trans. The cooler lines outlets are a lot smaller too.
His is definetly a shifting sob on the street at WOT, but normal driving is a little annoying since it shifts so harsh all the time.
His is definetly a shifting sob on the street at WOT, but normal driving is a little annoying since it shifts so harsh all the time.
Same thing I told him along with the fact that no matter which auto trany you go with you WILL have convertor failures, period! At that power level tranys hate you. Weight and hp/tq are the two main evils that tranys don't deal well with. You can get away with a lot of shit on a dyno but put the same power down in the real world on the track and you will have issues with it.
I have tested three different size input shafts and so many converters that it hurts to think about over the years. Our duraflites usually last a full season without any issues. Last year we ran one converter for most of the season until we had a VB issue and then went through 2 in a week.
True 1500HP Duramaxes will be hard on everything, the wallet and ego take the biggest hit.
True 1500HP Duramaxes will be hard on everything, the wallet and ego take the biggest hit.
I'm assuming good tuning through the PCS will do the converter a lot bigger favor than jus using a manual valve body would or is that not have anything to do with it?
Obviously you won't and couldn't drive a 1500 hp truck on the street, you be in the ditch quicker than you could spit. The first two engines we built for Max'd Out were probably in the 900-1000 hp range and the builder told us we'd be lucky to get 20 minutes at WOT out of them. Neither of those engines made 20 minutes at WOT. I don't think any of them since then have done it either and those are in the 1400+ hp range. Having a 1500 hp dmax won't impress the girls or make your pecker grow one inch. 
It will as Rob says raise hell with your pocket book.
It will as Rob says raise hell with your pocket book.
Don't get butthurt bud. These guys that are commenting have been there done that... There just keeping it real for you.
Lol I'm not butthurt at all I couldn't possibly care less. again, I'm not asking for advice or oppinions
No. I asked a question. for facts. Cold and hard. I literally did not one time ask for advice. Why are you even here? Did you answer my question? No..
