dual feed line problems

mytmousemalibu

mytmousemalibu

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Apr 12, 2008
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Well i have a dual feed but its on my LB7. where your having an issue they should be the same deal, LLy diferance was the line lenth iirc. LB7 and LLY are basiclly the same CP3. Your fitting should be the correct one.there is no seal on the fittings, that new piece that goes in the pump replaces the stock check valve plug. Both have a tiny taper seat inside the bore beyond the threads. no seals on the lines and such either. This is sealing rail pressure! The slightest bit of dirt or debris can cause a leak even if you really wrench stuff down! Defective fitting maybe?

As to why it wouldnt start.....? what all electrically was undone? And be careful, lot of suction at the manifolds, can easily ingest stuff;)
 
mudygmc

mudygmc

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Dec 8, 2008
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I think the only thing that got unpluged was the boost sensor from the turbo, to get the mouthpiece out. Efilive shows zero codes.
 
ripmf666

ripmf666

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Sep 20, 2006
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mudygmc said:
Duramax Dual Feed Line



Dual feed line installation instructions
6.6 liter Duramax LB7
Kit includes:
Qty:
1 High pressure fuel line PN# DDF-001
1 High pressure outlet fitting PN# DDF-002
1 Pressure inlet fitting PN# DDF-003
1 Rubber protection hose PN# DDF-004
2 Thermostat sealing o-rings PN# 97300793
5 Plastic zip ties
© 2007 Industrial Injection Service-All Rights Reserved
2
Step 1:
Disconnect the ground cables from the two batteries and remove the plastic cover plate from top of engine.
Step 2:
Remove the air intake tubes from air box, and turbo. Save all parts removed in this step. Disconnect both intercooler tubes from turbo.
Note: May be easier to remove both intercooler pipes from engine compartment for better access.
Step 3:
With all the air-to-air pipes (intercooler tubes) and intake piping out of the way. Unplug all electrical connections in the valley of the engine and any others that are in the way. Drain the antifreeze from the radiator and remove the fan belt from the engine.
Note: You will only need to drain out half of the engines coolant.
Step 4:
You will now need to unbolt the A/C compressor. Note: Do not disconnect the A/C compressor lines from the compressor. Lift the compressor from the bracket leaving the lines connected then lay the compressor across the passenger side of the engine. Unbolt and remove the alternator from the engine along with any wires in the way.
Step 5:
After the radiator is drained half way remove the thermostat housing manifold and the upper radiator hose from the engine. Unhook the coolant lines from the turbo to the thermostat housing. Set them aside. Discard the O-rings that seal the thermostat in the housing.
Note: Leave both thermostats in the engine or plug the holes with clean rags.
© 2007 Industrial Injection Service-All Rights Reserved
3
Step6:
Remove all fuel lines and fuel line brackets from the injection pump to the junction block assembly. Unbolt the junction block assembly from the mounting bracket and remove the t-block for modification. As seen in (Figures 1-2)
(figure 1) (figure 2)
Step7:
Remove the aluminum intake manifold from both of the cylinder heads by removing the four nuts and bolts holding it to each cylinder head. (figure 3) Set these parts aside for reassembly.
Note: Put clean rags in each intake cylinder hole to keep dirt and debris out.
(figure 3)
Installation of the high-pressure outlet fitting PN# DDF-002
Step 8:
In the common rail injection pump start by using a T-50 torques bit. Place the bit in the plug located on the bottom of the injection pump under the gear pump. (figure 4) Note: Tap torques bit with hammer a few times before removing to prevent the plug from being stripped.
Using a mirror watch for the checkball in the pump, it will stay in the pump or fall into the valley as plug is removed. The checkball will be reused.
(figure 4) (figure 5) (figure 6)
© 2007 Industrial Injection Service-All Rights Reserved
4
Remove the pressure spring from the stock plug and press it onto the new high-pressure fitting. (figures 5-6) Using a mirror make sure the checkball is in the pump before installing the pressure fitting. Once you have verified the ball is in the pump you can proceed with installation of the fitting. If the checkball is not in the pump, using white lube/grease, stick it to the end of the pressure valve. Make sure it does not fall off as you install it into the pump. (figures 7-8)
(figure 7) (figure 8)
Step 9:
Attach the high-pressure fuel line to the new fitting on the injection pump and tighten securely. (figure 9) Place rubber heat protection PN# DDF-004 around the high-pressure fuel line. Use the plastic zip ties to secure the protection cover to the fuel line. Run the high-pressure fuel line out of the injection pump up and in-between the turbo compressor housing and cylinder head. (figure 10) Make sure the rubber protection hose is completely protecting the high-pressure hose from rubbing on the compressor housing, cylinder head, or any other engine components.
(figure 9) (figure 10)
With the hose attached to the injection pump, tightened, and remove the clean rags from the intake holes on the cylinder heads. Replace the intake manifold and secure it back to the engine.
© 2007 Industrial Injection Service-All Rights Reserved
5
Step 10:
Remove the pressure relief valve from the junction block and replace with the high-pressure inlet fitting PN# DDF-003. (Figures 11-13) Reinstall the junction block to the engine. Replace all fuel lines to and from junction block to rail and injection pump.
(figure 11) (figure 12) (figure 13)
Step 11:
Route the high-pressure fuel line around the intake and back into the new high-pressure inlet fitting on the junction block. (figure 14) Bend the stock pressure relief valve return line toward the front of the engine. After the high-pressure fuel line is installed and tightened, using the stock banjo bolt and pressure relief valve, reinstall and leave it hanging. (figure 15)
(figure 14) (figure 15)
Step 12:
Reconnect any electrical connections and unhooked hoses. Replace the black rubber thermostat sealing o-rings PN# DDF-005. Reassemble the thermostat manifold to the engine, reconnect the upper radiator hose to radiator, reinstall the A/C compressor and the alternator. Reinstall all inter cooler tubes and any hoses left unhooked. (figures 16-17)
(figure 16) (figure 17)
© 2007 Industrial Injection Service-All Rights Reserved
6
Step 13:
Reinstall the fan belt, refill the antifreeze (figure 18), hook up the air intake to the turbo, reattach the air filter, Reinstall engine nameplate, and hook up the batteries.
Note: Double check all of the connections, fuel lines, and junction block to the injection pump before starting the truck.
(figure 18)
Thank you for your continued business with Industrial Injection Services. We look forward to working with you in the future. If you have any questions or concerns please feel free to contact us:
Industrial Injection Service
1201 South 700 West
SLC, UT 84104
(801) 972-0476
Or visit us on the web at:
www.industrialinjection.com
© 2007 Industrial Injection Service-All Rights Reserved
Click to expand...

Hope you got all the right stuff, looks like they would have up to date info and not have you use the infor for a LB7 that you posted in the above post.Hope you get it running.
 
sweetdiesel

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
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Thailand
Henry the fitting will fit on all cp3s and mine doesnt have a washer

you remove the hex plug and install the fitting its not much differnt than a rail fitting just has a checkball inside so you dont blow the cp3

telfon will not work and probably make it worse...tq spec is 36ft/lbs IIRC
 
sweetdiesel

sweetdiesel

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Aug 6, 2006
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Thailand
mudygmc said:
No that is the old LB7 kit the new LLy kit is different the high pressure outlet fitting looks the same rail fitting should be the same Hose is different and I got a couple other fittings for the LLy fuel rails.
Click to expand...


rail fittings on lly/lb7 are different, pump fittings are the same
 
sweetdiesel

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
10,390
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Thailand
mytmousemalibu said:
Well i have a dual feed but its on my LB7. where your having an issue they should be the same deal, LLy diferance was the line lenth iirc. LB7 and LLY are basiclly the same CP3. Your fitting should be the correct one.there is no seal on the fittings, that new piece that goes in the pump replaces the stock check valve plug. Both have a tiny taper seat inside the bore beyond the threads. no seals on the lines and such either. This is sealing rail pressure! The slightest bit of dirt or debris can cause a leak even if you really wrench stuff down! Defective fitting maybe?

As to why it wouldnt start.....? what all electrically was undone? And be careful, lot of suction at the manifolds, can easily ingest stuff;)
Click to expand...

:approved::D
 
mudygmc

mudygmc

New member
Dec 8, 2008
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Buffalo MN
If the fitting just bottums out on the back of the pump how is it leaking? I am positive I have it tighter than 36lb/ft. What else could I do? I need the truck running by tomorrow.
 
mudygmc

mudygmc

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Dec 8, 2008
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KEVINL said:
What is the advantage of doing this?
Click to expand...

You feed each rail individually. Allowing more fuel flow to the rails. Faster rail fill and more pressure. Should make more power.

I pulled the pump and set it on the bench. It looks like the hole in the back of the pump is flared to much. I can see a little sliver of the hole alongside the flats of the hex nut part of the fitting. I don't think it can seal at all. Has anybody seen this? I need the truck together asap and don't know what to do.
 
mudygmc

mudygmc

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Dec 8, 2008
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Buffalo MN
Does anybody know who I could call today to get info? After looking at the fittings. It looks like they are supposed to bottum out on the first collar before the threads. Doing some measuring on the pump and fitting. It looks like it will bottum on the hex with .015 clearance on the stepped collar. That has to be why it is leaking. I have 2 fittings one has .015 and the other has .025 of clearance. I don't think all of the fittings can be bad. I need help today.
 
mudygmc

mudygmc

New member
Dec 8, 2008
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Buffalo MN
Nobody is open on sat. I was hoping maybe somebody had experience with this stuff.

I have the fitting in the drillpress filing down the hex part. Looking at it. I am positive it seals on the collar before the threads. I will give it a shot and see what happens. The factory torx plug has to seal on the collar so I will make mine seal there too.
 
sweetdiesel

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
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Maybe you over TQd it? Can you put the hex plug back in and forget about the duel line for now?
what about trying a different port on the cp3?
 
mudygmc

mudygmc

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Dec 8, 2008
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Buffalo MN
With the measurements I took I don't think it was sealing on the collar. The factory torx plug has to seal on the collar. I don't know much about these pumps to know where else to put a line. I took ..030 off of the hex so it has to seat on the collar. I think it will work. It sucks you spend enough on a kit and it doesn't work. I put on an 85% over pump with the dual feed line. I hope I have plenty of fuel know.
 
mytmousemalibu

mytmousemalibu

Cut your ride, sissy!
Apr 12, 2008
2,230
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0
Kansas
Sorry, been asleep fighting a migrane:eek:

I did mine all on the truck so didnt really see down inside mine well, just with a mirror so i can truly verifiy what your experiancing. Hope shaving it works, but might hafta put the stock stuff back just in case:( The only thing i can thing of keeping it from starting on you was air in the fuel system:confused:

FYI, that check valves function is, to keep rail psi/fuel from going back into the CP3 pump chamber;)
 
mudygmc

mudygmc

New member
Dec 8, 2008
302
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Buffalo MN
I took .030 off of the hex part and reinstalled the pump. I assembled everything and fired it up. It doesn't seem to be leaking at all. I took it for a spin. I am definetly getting more fuel down low. It was hard to notice anything up top. The tune I was running was adjusted for my other pump and setup. I think I have alot of tuning to do to get any good performance out of it. I had the pump out 3 times this week and don't care to do it again for awhile. If this happens to anybody else it looks like machining the hex down will seat the fitting. Thanks to all for the help.

Adam
 
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