Whats the general reason for doing this? And at what point is it typically necessary/truly advantageous to go this route? Certain HP threshold or et?
Just curious.
Just curious.
Dry Sump Oil Setup
- Thread starter SmokeShow
- Start date
Its great for competition you can have a oil reserve as big as you want or as allowed, better oil control, can change oil psi, easy to prime engine, you can also run a very shallow oil pan. I ran this set up on my boat for a while it was alittle more dependable at a sustained 7000 rpm on a 427-BBC. if I'm not mistaken the Shelby cobras where set up with them on the 427-fords
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I knew they did on the faster drag and race vehicles to help with sloshing and G's and keeping oil off the crank.
At what kind of levels are they needed though? Any general rule of thumb for a certain RPM or speed or g-force??
C-ya
At what kind of levels are they needed though? Any general rule of thumb for a certain RPM or speed or g-force??
C-ya
You can run a lighter tension piston ring package, due to the vacum the pump creates, if it's a quality unit (less tension/more hp). Less windage/parasitics in the pan=hp. You can also dedicate oil to specific areas, that may need more attention then others=hp.
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yep keeps the crank out of the oil and if you have enough stages you can run a vacume, creating negative pressure in the crankcase makes more power beacuse there is less air for the pistons to push against
Diggin this out of the GRAVE here...to ask:
Has anyone here used a dry sump oiling system on a Dmax? Specifically PPE's new Low Profile Dry Sump Oil Pan and a dry sump system
Thanks!
Has anyone here used a dry sump oiling system on a Dmax? Specifically PPE's new Low Profile Dry Sump Oil Pan and a dry sump system
Thanks!
Plenty of sled pullers use dry sump. On a filled block/head engine it keeps the oil away from the engine heat, keeping it cooler. It also allows more clearance to run a Dana 60 or other straight axle with lifting the vehicle as much.
What kind of pricing and setups do ppl run? I think I need one. Mine seems like it can't put the oil back to the pan fast enough almost. End of pulls it will be really jumpy and fall down to like 20 psi
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Not filled block or heads. Decided against Both. I don't have an oil temp gauge either. Gonna put a fleece logger on it this winter
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For some reason i thought you were filled. Which oil temp can get real hot and thin the oil on a filled motor.
I have a lot of blow by, I think it's pushing it up faster than it can fall back down. Explains the blow by and cavitation
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Custom spec wiseco, not sure the rings. They are a gapped ring though
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Having a negative pressure (vacuum) in the crankcase also really helps ring seal, which translates to more power. And as mentioned, oil control is a huge plus... and no worries about aerating the oil.