I have a very high level of respect for you and did not intend to offend. I am however tired of this guy and the same photos he posted on Dieselplace 7-30-2011, over 4 years ago. It is the same crap every time. Nothing new. I came to this forum to get away from all the stupidity there and it appears to be occurring again here. If after Pm'ing with him this changes then great.
Dry Sump for the Duramax.
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I have a very high level of respect for you and did not intend to offend. I am however tired of this guy and the same photos he posted on Dieselplace 7-30-2011, over 4 years ago. It is the same crap every time. Nothing new. I came to this forum to get away from all the stupidity there and it appears to be occurring again here. If after Pm'ing with him this changes then great.
You respect someone that calls you a moron??
Gregg seems to know his stuff but from reading all his post on all the different forums it's all about him. If he would just try and post something without promoting himself or anything like "I did this first " then he'd be alright and maybe answering other people's questions. That's all I've got to say about that.
I do not block the port from the stock oil pump to the cooler , just block it off at the cooler . I feed oil in at the cooler pad , and then block off the oil regulator port on the front cover. I take my turbo oil off the cooler pad. Taking oil from the valley is not the best place , It could starve oil off the center cam bearing which is feed by the center main
S&T water Jet has the pattern for the cooler pad with both a dry sump single hole and stock pump duel hole.
as to vacuum pumps. I can remember walking the wrecking yards 25 years ago looking for different styles of smog pumps . The best pump was the nipindinso off the Mazda . We then tested these on an eclectic motor driven test stand. The Mazda pump was worth 15 to 20 hp on a wet sump engine . We learned quickly to put a vacuum breaker , or regulator on engine as wet sumps did not like vacuum above 18 inches, and lost oil pressure and usually kicked a rod out .
I worked with several 2.6 programs on valve train and cam programs and we used a 12 volt shop vacuum motor and connected it to the valve cover or side cover of Cummins and duramax engines. We really cleaned up the blow by.
Running vacuum on any engine alone is not all of the power gains . I use an extremely light weight ring package . usually a back cut 1/16 1/16 3/16.
tool steel top ring and napier second ring . I currently use lateral gas porting as well .
here was my 292 cid low deck Chevy C/ED motor in 1999 with the first of the moroso vacuum pumps. This was an extreme wet sump engine program and made really good power 780 @ 9700 .
if you will look at the bottom on the engine on my D/ED you can see the Nipindzo pump
Now gas engines such as Pro Stock use ultra small ring packages .75 m .75 mm 1.5 mm
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You have been posting tech a lot. You have also been posting tech on transmissions. Tell us how your experience went with your trans mr know it all.
Did you have to pay someone to fix your screw ups? I won't tell.
I know what you did wrong in your trans. It's pathetic.
I don't mince words when it comes to incompetence. And these incompetent people are still posting tech. You are one of them.
You want respect? GTFO
Childish. Nope didn't pay anyone anything to build my trans. I accomplished it even know "I shouldn't be working on them..." Lol. so what did I do wrong in my trans since you know it all? BTW my trans is running great... I don't want your respect nor did I ask for it. GTFO
Ill try and find some. For you . I(ME) have a system of building these .first mount the pump and drive. Then the tank. Then build the pan without pick ups. Now your ready to run you lines. Then do the final fit up on the pan.
(ME)I use a 6 stage Autoverdi. Pump becaue they can be bought for 10 cents on the dollor from NASCAR teams. I(ME) put 4 of the 5 scavenge stages in the pan. I(ME) put the last scavenge stage teed in to the turbo drain down location and drain the turbos in to this.
I(ME) found a double lip vitron seal that fits the rear seal. It expensive. A whole $18.. I(ME) have a front seal as well.
(ME)I use a 6 stage Autoverdi. Pump becaue they can be bought for 10 cents on the dollor from NASCAR teams. I(ME) put 4 of the 5 scavenge stages in the pan. I(ME) put the last scavenge stage teed in to the turbo drain down location and drain the turbos in to this.
I(ME) found a double lip vitron seal that fits the rear seal. It expensive. A whole $18.. I(ME) have a front seal as well.
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Just for the sake of truth, if any if you actually listen to the OP, and buy a used oil pump, be prepared to rebuild it. Yes they can be cheaper but normally the top teams get rid of them for a good reason, their trashed!
Audoverti has a great pump, but they are not cheap to buy new or to rebuild. Almost any brand will work fine. You Wont need new seals either.... Just a fyi, without smoke and mirrors.
Audoverti has a great pump, but they are not cheap to buy new or to rebuild. Almost any brand will work fine. You Wont need new seals either.... Just a fyi, without smoke and mirrors.
That is simply not true . The part available from NASCAR teams are times out to run a 500 mile race . They take zero chances on any part having a potential failure during a NASCAR event . That said I(ME) have bought over 10 of the pumps in the last 15 years and never seen a problem with any of them. The parts are timed out of good running engines after a race. Each pump comes with a data sheet of how many million RPMs the pumps have turned, this is how they calculate their life.
I(ME) have also bought complete P7R5 Dodge engines and used in SS/TA and SS/AM . This is a very standard engine combination in NHRA and IHRA super stock . These engines make 825 to 860 hp depending on the event they were built for . The average price for a engine that took $40,000 to build is about $7500 to $10,000 . I(ME) have seem these engines go 400 to 600 laps in drag racing without problems . sorry for the used NASCAR parts info. But I(ME) hear this all the times.
I(ME) use the Auto Verdi pump for one reason and one reason only it's the pump of chose of 99% of the NASCAR engine builders . I(ME) usually pay $600 to $ 800 with all of the lines for a good used times out pump. You must get the lines as the fittings in the pump are unique and not available for less then $80 a piece. and there are 12 fittings you will need .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Verdi-...c1d911&pid=100011&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=181861422934
as far as the seals that is only for race only engines , but not a lot of people putting dry sumps on a street duramax
also to rebuild these pumps is not cost effective
Dave C , I mean Wade.
I(ME) have also bought complete P7R5 Dodge engines and used in SS/TA and SS/AM . This is a very standard engine combination in NHRA and IHRA super stock . These engines make 825 to 860 hp depending on the event they were built for . The average price for a engine that took $40,000 to build is about $7500 to $10,000 . I(ME) have seem these engines go 400 to 600 laps in drag racing without problems . sorry for the used NASCAR parts info. But I(ME) hear this all the times.
I(ME) use the Auto Verdi pump for one reason and one reason only it's the pump of chose of 99% of the NASCAR engine builders . I(ME) usually pay $600 to $ 800 with all of the lines for a good used times out pump. You must get the lines as the fittings in the pump are unique and not available for less then $80 a piece. and there are 12 fittings you will need .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Verdi-...c1d911&pid=100011&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=181861422934
as far as the seals that is only for race only engines , but not a lot of people putting dry sumps on a street duramax
also to rebuild these pumps is not cost effective
Dave C , I mean Wade.
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yes and the track would not hold either of the cars we took, There is a video on my race page. This was a T&T and you could not expect them to put a $100 worth of glue down for two cars
opcorn:
was cleaning trailer today found the 1st round Q at the NHRA event a few months ago.
here is slip from a year ago
here is slip from a year ago
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didn't make it past 60 foot , no track, but the video is on my race page. Wheel stand like crazy , and then blew the tires off.
launched at 4700 , and the motor went to 5800 in 3 tenths of a second in to the run. We are going to Ennis this next weekend weather permitting . wanting to get a 6 on the board , car is easy a 6.70 to 6.80 car and we are not using but a small about of nitrous yet/ Chris backed Fuel pressure down to 2000 bar . He is a few passes away from getting rid of the smoke. Then we are going to try a wideband O2 .
interesting the car was idling very quite and smooth now . The canter in the idle was the vibration in the throttle peddle . Chris killed the first 1% of throttle and it smoother out
launched at 4700 , and the motor went to 5800 in 3 tenths of a second in to the run. We are going to Ennis this next weekend weather permitting . wanting to get a 6 on the board , car is easy a 6.70 to 6.80 car and we are not using but a small about of nitrous yet/ Chris backed Fuel pressure down to 2000 bar . He is a few passes away from getting rid of the smoke. Then we are going to try a wideband O2 .
interesting the car was idling very quite and smooth now . The canter in the idle was the vibration in the throttle peddle . Chris killed the first 1% of throttle and it smoother out
Why not throw a soft tune-up in there to establish a good, solid repeatable baseline? Once you have that, the world is your oyster, turn it up bit by bit, sneaking up on it until you really have something that will make jaws drop.
I believe you could probably do it, but it's got to be done in stages, bit by bit, learning TONS of information as you make your way along.
Just a thought.....
I believe you could probably do it, but it's got to be done in stages, bit by bit, learning TONS of information as you make your way along.
Just a thought.....